Chain hooks

PaulL

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B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,452
1,376
113
NZ
I'm getting around to chain hooks on my bucket (or perhaps on my pallet forks, still considering).

In the USA there are a lot of options, and in particular bolt on hooks. In NZ there doesn't seem to be the same range.

I'm seeking a bit of advice on what sort of chain hook I'd need. In my mind I probably need two hooks, one either side of either the bucket or the fork frame. That then would let me loop chain around something and back to the bucket.

I see hooks like this that are inexpensive. They need to be welded on, and my welding skills aren't brilliant. But I can weld and grind and weld and grind and weld until I get something strong enough. It doesn't have to be super pretty I guess.

Obviously the risk there is that I weld badly, it breaks off, and I drop something or hurt myself. I'm pretty careful in not having people near when lifting things, and the things I lift are mainly things that would tolerate being dropped.....so probably a manageable risk.

Questions for the forum:
1. What is grade 70 chain - is that probably going to be the chain I already have? Is 7.3mm and 8mm also likely to be the chain I'm using (I have a few that I inherited in various ways, some thicker some thinner, are they probably 7.3mm and 8mm? Looks like that's probably 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch?)

2. How many hooks would people typically put on? I think I've seen three sometimes, but I'm not super keen on loading the centre of the bucket, so one each side in line with the cylinders seems more sensible.

3. I've seen both chain hooks and loops. The hooks seem more useful to me, but what do the people use?

4. Is there any benefit to bolt on (I could buy and ship out of the US, quite a bit more expensive though), or is that just a solution for people who can't weld and/or don't want to have to touch up their paint?

5. Do people have thoughts about chain hooks on your bucket v's on your pallet fork frame? I care less about my pallet forks, so I probably prefer to use them for things like chains that scratch up the paint. But in reality my bucket is on more often, and I've never actually used chains with the pallet forks - I always seem to have the bucket on when I'm doing chain things. My pallet forks are also much more light duty than the bucket. Perhaps the real answer is to mount on both? For pallet forks my main thought is to not put the hooks in a place where they reach out and bite me as I walk past, otherwise probably just low and inside the fork frame.

Thanks for any advice or thoughts.
 

Edke6bnl

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B7800 Kubota, case 1840 Skidsteer Ford 3500
Mar 31, 2022
230
119
43
Agua Dulce, California
What I did was to put a thick walled angle iron accross the whole top of the bucket and attached the hooks directly inline with the bucket cylinders. Strengthens the bucket and you can have someone weld hooks to angle then grade 8 bolt on to the top of the bucket.
 
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someguy9000

Member
Oct 7, 2022
44
21
8
California
I personally bought the bolt on hooks because the bracket inside the bucket has a D shackle mount. So I have hooks on top and d shackles in the bucket. One at each cylinder.
 
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MapleLeafFarmer

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Equipment
Lots incl. B and L kubotas
Dec 2, 2019
657
532
93
E.
that grab hook is more suited when backing material is fairly stout. Take care your bucket gauge is significant enough for your tasks at hand. Otherwise it could bend/tear your buckets material as gauge usually not strong enough. Maybe consider one with a backing plate to distribute stresses

Grade 70 doesn't indicate size of chain. It indicates a chain that is about 20% stronger than grade 43 and made of heat treated carbon steel.

I like one grab hook and 1 slip hook. Gives lots of options from everything from chains, straps, looped hitching, etc...

IMHO bolt on for guys that don't weld well and/or don't want to touch up paint. Whatever you be comfortable with I guess.

Cheers
 
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Motion

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Lifetime Member

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Kubota MX5100HST/FEL
Aug 17, 2020
540
302
63
Mandeville Louisiana
I used 3 weld-on 3/8" grab hooks (right/center/left) and 2 weld-on shackle clevis mounts above the FEL attach points. I've standardized on 5/16" chain and have about 240 feet of various lengths with different hooks (slip/grab/log choker) and keep several double clevis chain links to make up for long pulls. I used the 3/8" to ensure quick hook up and release.
 
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TheOldHokie

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Apr 6, 2021
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windyridgefarm.us
I'm getting around to chain hooks on my bucket (or perhaps on my pallet forks, still considering).

In the USA there are a lot of options, and in particular bolt on hooks. In NZ there doesn't seem to be the same range.

I'm seeking a bit of advice on what sort of chain hook I'd need. In my mind I probably need two hooks, one either side of either the bucket or the fork frame. That then would let me loop chain around something and back to the bucket.

I see hooks like this that are inexpensive. They need to be welded on, and my welding skills aren't brilliant. But I can weld and grind and weld and grind and weld until I get something strong enough. It doesn't have to be super pretty I guess.

Obviously the risk there is that I weld badly, it breaks off, and I drop something or hurt myself. I'm pretty careful in not having people near when lifting things, and the things I lift are mainly things that would tolerate being dropped.....so probably a manageable risk.

Questions for the forum:
1. What is grade 70 chain - is that probably going to be the chain I already have? Is 7.3mm and 8mm also likely to be the chain I'm using (I have a few that I inherited in various ways, some thicker some thinner, are they probably 7.3mm and 8mm? Looks like that's probably 1/4 inch and 5/16 inch?)

2. How many hooks would people typically put on? I think I've seen three sometimes, but I'm not super keen on loading the centre of the bucket, so one each side in line with the cylinders seems more sensible.

3. I've seen both chain hooks and loops. The hooks seem more useful to me, but what do the people use?

4. Is there any benefit to bolt on (I could buy and ship out of the US, quite a bit more expensive though), or is that just a solution for people who can't weld and/or don't want to have to touch up their paint?

5. Do people have thoughts about chain hooks on your bucket v's on your pallet fork frame? I care less about my pallet forks, so I probably prefer to use them for things like chains that scratch up the paint. But in reality my bucket is on more often, and I've never actually used chains with the pallet forks - I always seem to have the bucket on when I'm doing chain things. My pallet forks are also much more light duty than the bucket. Perhaps the real answer is to mount on both? For pallet forks my main thought is to not put the hooks in a place where they reach out and bite me as I walk past, otherwise probably just low and inside the fork frame.

Thanks for any advice or thoughts.
Dont over think this. If you can weld even remotely well stick some Grade 70 weld on grab hooks to the bucket AND forks. I prefer three as shown below. For a B2601 5/16 (8mm) chain should be all you need. You can turn grab hooks into slip hooks, D rings, or most anything else with a few links of chain and the desired ends.

Dan

20221230_162746.jpg
 
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85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
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Bedford - VA
I too think 5/16" is the way to go .......

why you ask? a 3/8" chain WILL bind off on a 5/16" hook - and believe it or not a 1/4" chain will bind in the 5/16" hook.

I also like the idea of 3 hooks - 2 inline with arms and 1 dead center.

I chose to weld and then bolt on - I had some 1/2 plate laying around and I need to get above the lip of the bucket anyway.

This was several years ago - I have since - unbolted and add another backing plate all around to keep from beating the hell out of the lip.

1683202761512.png

bucket hooks.jpg
 
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Henro

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B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini Ex., Beer fridge
May 24, 2019
5,803
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I’m with TheOldHokie. I also used three hooks with the outside ones in line with the loader arms. I welded a piece of 1/4" angle across the top lip and welded my hooks to it.

I used a slip hook in the middle and never regretted it.
IMG_2194.jpeg
IMG_2196.jpeg
 
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GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,664
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
hooksone.JPG

here's my no weld- no drill solution. Hooks welded to pieces of 2x4 angle bolted to a section of electrical strut. Makes it easy to carry 'fun' things like barrels of water , drag logs out of the bush.....
 
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Henro

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B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini Ex., Beer fridge
May 24, 2019
5,803
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View attachment 101663
here's my no weld- no drill solution. Hooks welded to pieces of 2x4 angle bolted to a section of electrical strut. Makes it easy to carry 'fun' things like barrels of water , drag logs out of the bush.....
Looks like a good solution. Having trouble seeing how it is held on the bucket without drilling. Super magnets? :LOL:

May be missing something as I don’t have a quick attach set up.
 

PaulL

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
2,452
1,376
113
NZ
Looks like a good solution. Having trouble seeing how it is held on the bucket without drilling. Super magnets? :LOL:

May be missing something as I don’t have a quick attach set up.
Looks like it's just hooked under the top edge of the bucket. So you can just drop it on when you want to use it.
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,664
5,047
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
The electrical strut section is about 6" longer than the gap, so you angle it in, then back,so it overlaps each end evenly.The bolts that hold the hooks/angles on keep it from moving left or right. 'Magically', it also 'snugs' the strut to the bottom side of the top lip so the whole unit is firm and doesn't rattle.
If I was to make a version 2.0, I'd use 2 sections of strut to fill the 'slot'(not just the 3" overlap...) and have a 3rd hook or 2" receiver to join the 2 sections together. I have to admit it's mighty strong.
 

Henro

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B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini Ex., Beer fridge
May 24, 2019
5,803
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North of Pittsburgh PA
The electrical strut section is about 6" longer than the gap, so you angle it in, then back,so it overlaps each end evenly.The bolts that hold the hooks/angles on keep it from moving left or right. 'Magically', it also 'snugs' the strut to the bottom side of the top lip so the whole unit is firm and doesn't rattle.
If I was to make a version 2.0, I'd use 2 sections of strut to fill the 'slot'(not just the 3" overlap...) and have a 3rd hook or 2" receiver to join the 2 sections together. I have to admit it's mighty strong.
I think I see it now. The strut slips into and under the lip, and then you slide the brackets over and tighten the bolts to hold it in place?

No doubt a workable solution. I’ll stick with what I have though…😀
 

NorthwoodsLife

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Kubota B7100(sold), Kubota LX2610 Cab
Oct 15, 2021
1,060
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Wisconsin
I've been extremely happy with the JU Fabworks hook, loop, and hitch point bracket I put on my LX2610. I don't know if they ship to OZ. Probably would. Ask them.

www.jufabworks.com
 
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GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,664
5,047
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
yes Henro , that's how it works...
It cost me nothing to make as I have a 5 decade 'collection of stuff'.... and made for an interesting morning project.
Sure I could have welded the hooks on, or bolted them on but I like to figure out 'options'.
Considering I have 997 hours on the 5 year old the bucket ain't 'show ready' anymore :giggle: