Chain Binders, cam over type or ratchet type?

[OrangeColoredTractor]

Chain binders for transporting...

I am about to buy a set of 4, I see the cam over type or the ratchet type. One is about $80 more, but price isnt an issue with me, I just want the best set up, and I know higher cost doesnt always mean better.

It comes with the chain extensions and I will have the soft axle wrap straps, what chain binders shall I purchase? Which do you use, do you like them?

 

[Tooljunkie]

If you are new to the load securement program then go with the ratchet style. One slip with the cam over type can be extremely painful. Careful with the ratchet type, you can crank them up pretty tight. A little practice and you wont mind the time spent cranking on them.one for each corner is not necessary. Two chains on front,reverse tractor then attatch rear chains and tighten. Cross chaining is better whenever possible.

 

[Bulldog]

If I was going to use binders I would go with the ratchet type.

 

[85Hokie]

If I was going to use binders I would go with the ratchet type.

There are more expensive - but worth every dollar more!

 

[rkidd]

I also use the ratchet type hauling my tractor. Safer and I feel more secure.

 

[lugbolt]

When I worked at a dealer, it amaze me how people would tie down a tractor. Sometimes no tie downs at all. Actually pretty frequently. Then some would put a chain across the front only, nothing on back. If someone were to pull out in front of the driver, that tractor could become a projectile-which is why a rear chain is needed.

 

[Racer X]

The snap binders are OK so long as the load is flexible enough to give when you pull them tight with the bar (remember to get a cinch bar too, even if you use ratchet binders, it works great to give the chain hooks a settling smack after the machine is tied down).

My preference after 800,000 miles of OTR flatbed work is ratchet binders. Properly lubed (I use white lithium spray) and maintained they can't be beat. As mentioned, be careful not to over tighten.

Also as mentioned, opposing pulls are a must, and rolling the machine back against the front chains and then using binders on the rear two is OK. But also keep in mind that any attachments, i.e. the bucket or a backhoe also are required to be secured, separately from the machine securement.

When I hauled tractors with hoes or excavators with booms I used 4" ratchet straps on the big ones and 2" ratchet straps on the little ones.

Here is a custom made boom I hauled from Portland, Oregon to Thetford Mines, Quebec. I used a combination of 3/8" chains with ratchet binders and 4" ratchet straps to hold it down.

Jewell Boom To Thetford Mines Quebec by Racer, on Flickr

 

[Racer X]

One is about $80 more, . . . . .

A 5/16" - 3/8" ratcheting load binder runs about $25.

 

[Ridger]

I've used both. Ratchet binders are safer. I bought this set of four 5/16" - 3/8" off Ebay and have been pleased with them. Remember to get Grade 70 5/16 inch chains.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Ratchet-L...728882?hash=item2ca864a3f2:g:aSgAAOSw9IpXxxbV

 

[spacemanspiff]

My Cat backhoe, and Vermeer plow have a place to chain them down. Why doesn't Kubota have these? The back I kinda see why, but on the front there should be a place to put a chain.

 

[Racer X]

My Cat backhoe, and Vermeer plow have a place to chain them down. Why doesn't Kubota have these? The back I kinda see why, but on the front there should be a place to put a chain.

At the front I go around the axle and use a pair of grab hooks to set the chain on each side.

The drawbar can be used at the rear.

 

[OrangeColoredTractor]

OK, I purchased a brand new trailer, 4 cam over type binders, 4 chunks of 25 feet of 5/16" plated chain. The trailer is an 18 footer, 2 feet past the rear back blade, puts tractors rear axle right over the rear trailer axle, towed real nice, stable and perfect tongue weight. Trailer has a bump stop, built in ramps. I will weld on the rear jacks, using car jacks for now, squats good when loading it up otherwise, stabilizes once centered on trailer.

I welded 7 1/2" D rinds down each side of the trailer. I trimmed the chains to fit this tractor exclusively so I am not fumbling with long chains. Left some extra for leeway.

I installed shackles in the holes at the ROPS lower mount area, crossed my chains in the rear and in the front, the lower mount where the grille guard mounts too.

Tidied up the tongue wiring, was hoaky, added the interface box and molded plug/connector. Moved break away battery back a little.

Ok, I posted images, but not showing up. (FIXED)

 

[OrangeColoredTractor]

I've used both. Ratchet binders are safer. I bought this set of four 5/16" - 3/8" off Ebay and have been pleased with them. Remember to get Grade 70 5/16 inch chains.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Ratchet-L...728882?hash=item2ca864a3f2:g:aSgAAOSw9IpXxxbV

All my stuff was rated G70, hooks, chains, binders, even weld on bucket hooks. I just upgraded my hitch stinger to well over my max load and a new 2 5/16 ball with a 1 1/4" shank, all good for 15+K lbs. Well over.

 

[PHPaul]

Ratchet, all day every day.

 

[ItBmine]

Lots of responses here already but myself being a truck driver hauling every thing from steel and lumber to low-boy floats, the ratchet style is safer and easier for you to get the right amount of tension without over or under tightening.

The trick with ratchet binders is to keep them well lubed all the time. Otherwise they can turn in to a pain to use.