Can I use a Box Blade with Turf Tires for my project?

davidmem

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Soon to be owner of Kubota B2601 Toro TimeCutter Model 7577
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I have about 3/4 of an acre of old hay field that I mow with my zero turn. It's very bumpy and I'd like to LEVEL/SMOOTH and seed it with grass similar to the rest of my property.

I have a B2601 soon to be delivered and I requested turf tires.

I was thinking I could use a box blade to level the bumps and prepare the surface for seeding.

Will the B2601 be able to pull a 48" box blade for the project pictured below?

While at it, I'd like to level the volleyball court area more with would be cutting about 6" from one side of the court.

Would turf tires make this job difficult? Impossible?

Tractor newbie here. I did order the "top" feature for the 3 point hitch with this project in mind.

Thoughts?


20210523_120335.jpg
 
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BigG

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The box blade is not the best tool for the job. A plow and a disk or a tiller would allow you to bust up the grass clumps and then smooth with the BB. The rippers will tear things up but what do you do with the clumps?

As far as the volleyball court the box blade will allow you to level the field. However the grass clumps will give you problems again. The tiller would allow the dirt to be moved much easier once it is dusted up.

I have rented a 3 point tiller from Sun Belt which worked out very well.
 
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davidmem

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Bethany, CT
The box blade is not the best tool for the job. A plow and a disk or a tiller would allow you to bust up the grass clumps and then smooth with the BB. The rippers will tear things up but what do you do with the clumps?

As far as the volleyball court the box blade will allow you to level the field. However the grass clumps will give you problems again. The tiller would allow the dirt to be moved much easier once it is dusted up.

I have rented a 3 point tiller from Sun Belt which worked out very well.
Thanks. I would LOVE to be able to find a place to rent a tiller in Connecticut. That would be perfect. Yes the clumps would be a problem. Would the process be "till", then box blade, then rake?

Total newbie so trying to learn. I appreciate the help.
 

BigG

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Thanks. I would LOVE to be able to find a place to rent a tiller in Connecticut. That would be perfect. Yes the clumps would be a problem. Would the process be "till", then box blade, then rake?

Total newbie so trying to learn. I appreciate the help.
Is the bb the only tool you have? A landscape or york rake will help reduce the hand raking. The clumps will interfere with the smoothing of the dirt so they need to go first. A drag of some kind will also help to blend the dirt back into the undisturbed earth. An old railroad tie or a couple of old tires dragged behind the tractor will smooth the marks left by your BB.

Check FB, Craig's, or the local tractor dealer, feed store or garden store for someone who will prep the garden it may be much cheaper in the long run.
 
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B737

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UpNorthMI

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I’m with BigG a tiller will break things up, then Boxblade, rake is very useful. TSC sells a drag harrow, easy to use and will help level things up real well, strongly recommend one.

You should have no issues with turf for tilling, raking or drag harrow. Box blade will be ok if you have tilled.

if you try to box blade without breaking up ground first, turf may not give you enough traction.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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after yo kill off the grass...
day 1,run subsoiler through it N-S, E-W
day 2,angle disc several times N-S, E-W
day 3,straight disc with chains or harrows several times
day 4,use 4' HD roller,no water, then 1/2 full
day 5,when happy,then spread grass seed and roll with empty roller

reseed next fall and next spring.
 
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lostboy

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Turfs will be fine, just Air them up as recommended.
This video isn't about the turf tires, but I think you will get the idea.

 

davidmem

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Soon to be owner of Kubota B2601 Toro TimeCutter Model 7577
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Is the bb the only tool you have? A landscape or york rake will help reduce the hand raking. The clumps will interfere with the smoothing of the dirt so they need to go first. A drag of some kind will also help to blend the dirt back into the undisturbed earth. An old railroad tie or a couple of old tires dragged behind the tractor will smooth the marks left by your BB.

Check FB, Craig's, or the local tractor dealer, feed store or garden store for someone who will prep the garden it may be much cheaper in the long run.
I am just planning what implements to purchase what implements to rent how to take care of this job I wanted to do for many years. So I have some flexibility. Total tractor newbie who will receive his tractor hopefully in the next couple of weeks and this planning to get some things done I've wanted to do.

Thanks.
 

G.rid

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Depending how smooth you're aiming for, you could take a simpler approach.
Cut the grass as low as possible, haul in topsoil or sand, level and smooth, lightly pack, and over seed. If you lengthen the toplink some, the BB shouldn't dig in but spread and smooth. It will also knock off some of the high spots.
There's a video on YouTube that a guy used a lawn tractor pulling a wooden pallet. He used bagged soil but it was also a small yard. Of course when I go looking for it I can't find it. But there are a ton of videos of smoothing lawns.

Back to your original question, yes the turf tires should work. You'll just need to take smaller bites, a full BB might make them slip.
 
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PNWBXer

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I'd say use a grass killer first....let it die off and dry out....then rent a tiller to turn it. With the grass dead it will till much better and wont clump up as much (assuming you let it dry out enough). ....even then it might take multiple passes to break up the soil to the desired consistency. TTWT did a job like this.....
 

NCL4701

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Lots of good advice already. One thing to consider if you decide to plow or use a subsoiler as some have suggested. The pic you posted appears to include light poles with underground service. Before you do anything that would go more than a few inches down, contact the utility to get the lines located and make sure you know the minimum depth for whatever lines are there (power, phone, fiber, etc.). Hitting a utility line can be an expensive mistake.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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'old hay field'...sigh, wonder how old and if it was 'notill' ?
I ran subsoiler through my wife's veggie garden,goes down 2+ feet, pull in 2nd high with D-14,easy ride.
Go to neighbour's field, 1st gear low and D-14 NOT really happy. Her field had been notill for 3-4 decades,soy,corn,oats....... HARDPAN.... man it felt like I was breaking up concrete !
Don't try to use a tiller as a 'sod buster', you'll destroy the tiller IF you can withstand the very slow,bumpy ride ALL day long.....
 

davidmem

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Interesting how mixed the opinions are I'm getting. Seems like no perscriptive way to do this.....
 
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NCL4701

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Interesting how mixed the opinions are I'm getting. Seems like no perscriptive way gold do this.....
There isn’t one and only one way to do it. There’s the “I need to change the grade and flatten a 1/4 acre” landscaping type method. That involves landscaping type implements such as tiller, box blade, land plane, landscape rake, harley rake, etc. In a small area you couldn’t get a plow or disc harrow started good before you’re done and you’d still be working the edges with something else most likely.

There’s the more agricultural based, “I don’t need to change the grade but I do need to change what’s growing there and get the ridges, lumps, and holes out of 10 acres+ to make the old corn field into a pasture“ method. That would involve ag implements such as plow, disc harrow, and drag harrow (which could be a chain harrow or a railroad tie, etc.). Trying to work many, many acres with a tiller and box blade would take forever and a day.

The size of the area looks like it’s kind of in between. Soil type and compaction also plays into it. If you have reasonably workable soil you might be successful working it up with a tiller. If you have clay (like I have in my yard) it is either wet and will clump up into a muddy mess or it is dry and it is like tilling concrete. Sandy or loamy soil, the tiller may work well. So to some degree it depends on what implements you have and if you’re buying implements what you might use long term v just for this one job. Depends on what you can rent if you don’t need it long term. You may be able to rent a tiller. Good luck renting a plow. Also depends on what, if any, implements you are comfortable with and have skills to use.

The basic premise is you have to get rid of the grass you have now to keep it from coming back so you can grow something else, level out the dirt, pulverize it into a decent seed bed that can be leveled so it isn’t a lumpy bunch of clods, and either lightly compact it with a roller or stay off it until rain, new grass, and time solidify it into a walkable surface.

If you can’t till it, I’d lean toward plowing to turn the existing grass upside down to kill it, disc it after it has dried some, and drag it into a final seed bed condition before planting new grass. If you can find a local farmer or landscaper to drill in the new grass seed, that would be ideal to maximize germination and also would take care of the light compaction requirement. If you can’t, broadcast seeding and cover with straw does work if you have prepared the seed bed appropriately. Particularly if you don’t drill the new seed, plan on overseeding at least a couple more times before you have an adequate stand of grass.

None of that would change the grade. If you need to change the grade that would be box blade/loader territory.

I lean toward the ag method to some degree because although I don’t currently farm anything, I did many years ago so that’s what I’m most familiar with in this type operation. Others may lean more toward the landscaping type solution based on their experience.

You are correct that there’s more than one “right” method to accomplish your goal. Personally, I couldn’t tell you with absolute certainty what way is definitely best without walking out into the area you want to fix and at least putting a shovel into it in a couple of places to know exactly what soil type and level of compaction you’re dealing with. Biggest problem I see from afar with plowing and possibly discing is your tractor has turf tires. Plowing with turf tires, particularly if the ground is really hard, is a pretty dicey proposition. Even though you don’t need to go very deep turf tires aren’t ideal for the drawbar force needed for plowing.

For plowing (and definitely for subsoiling) the utility lines, if any, may also restrict what you can get away with depending on how deep they are and what your plans are. Not only are utility lines expensive, I have personally hit a 14kV power line with a trencher (locator man screwed up) and it’s not an experience I’d like to repeat.
 
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davidmem

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Soon to be owner of Kubota B2601 Toro TimeCutter Model 7577
Mar 14, 2021
179
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Bethany, CT
There isn’t one and only one way to do it. There’s the “I need to change the grade and flatten a 1/4 acre” landscaping type method. That involves landscaping type implements such as tiller, box blade, land plane, landscape rake, harley rake, etc. In a small area you couldn’t get a plow or disc harrow started good before you’re done and you’d still be working the edges with something else most likely.

There’s the more agricultural based, “I don’t need to change the grade but I do need to change what’s growing there and get the ridges, lumps, and holes out of 10 acres+ to make the old corn field into a pasture“ method. That would involve ag implements such as plow, disc harrow, and drag harrow (which could be a chain harrow or a railroad tie, etc.). Trying to work many, many acres with a tiller and box blade would take forever and a day.

The size of the area looks like it’s kind of in between. Soil type and compaction also plays into it. If you have reasonably workable soil you might be successful working it up with a tiller. If you have clay (like I have in my yard) it is either wet and will clump up into a muddy mess or it is dry and it is like tilling concrete. Sandy or loamy soil, the tiller may work well. So to some degree it depends on what implements you have and if you’re buying implements what you might use long term v just for this one job. Depends on what you can rent if you don’t need it long term. You may be able to rent a tiller. Good luck renting a plow. Also depends on what, if any, implements you are comfortable with and have skills to use.

The basic premise is you have to get rid of the grass you have now to keep it from coming back so you can grow something else, level out the dirt, pulverize it into a decent seed bed that can be leveled so it isn’t a lumpy bunch of clods, and either lightly compact it with a roller or stay off it until rain, new grass, and time solidify it into a walkable surface.

If you can’t till it, I’d lean toward plowing to turn the existing grass upside down to kill it, disc it after it has dried some, and drag it into a final seed bed condition before planting new grass. If you can find a local farmer or landscaper to drill in the new grass seed, that would be ideal to maximize germination and also would take care of the light compaction requirement. If you can’t, broadcast seeding and cover with straw does work if you have prepared the seed bed appropriately. Particularly if you don’t drill the new seed, plan on overseeding at least a couple more times before you have an adequate stand of grass.

None of that would change the grade. If you need to change the grade that would be box blade/loader territory.

I lean toward the ag method to some degree because although I don’t currently farm anything, I did many years ago so that’s what I’m most familiar with in this type operation. Others may lean more toward the landscaping type solution based on their experience.

You are correct that there’s more than one “right” method to accomplish your goal. Personally, I couldn’t tell you with absolute certainty what way is definitely best without walking out into the area you want to fix and at least putting a shovel into it in a couple of places to know exactly what soil type and level of compaction you’re dealing with. Biggest problem I see from afar with plowing and possibly discing is your tractor has turf tires. Plowing with turf tires, particularly if the ground is really hard, is a pretty dicey proposition. Even though you don’t need to go very deep turf tires aren’t ideal for the drawbar force needed for plowing.

For plowing (and definitely for subsoiling) the utility lines, if any, may also restrict what you can get away with depending on how deep they are and what your plans are. Not only are utility lines expensive, I have personally hit a 14kV power line with a trencher (locator man screwed up) and it’s not an experience I’d like to repeat.
Thank you for being so generous with your time! Very much appreciate it!
 

frozenorangejuce

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BX1870 la203 loader AI2 quick attach 48" bucket 60" snow blade 60" box blade
Oct 5, 2020
5
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3
The Tundra of MN
The box blade will do it but it’s going to take some time.
ideally You would till first to break it up but if you keep working the dirt with the blade most of the clumps and do a good job.
You do not have the power to pull the 6” at once but you can easily do 2-3 at a time
No problem with the turf tires.
I’ve been re-working my yard with a smaller tractor turf tires and a 60” box blade.
 
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