BX2755HD gear oil fill plug is seized. 11mm bolt, rusted solid. Used blower I dont think the gear oil was ever serviced
- Thread starter Rob18530
- Start date
The 11 mm bolt is seized. It's now starting to strip. Any suggestions on how to get this to release. I've sprayed with oil, heated the shit out of it, it won't release
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I think what you’re yanking is the vent, not the full.
Fill is the Allen set screw on the left side of the gearbox. Drain is a similar Allen screw on the bottom of the gearbox.
The Allen fill tells you when the gearbox is full.
PS - check the parts diagram. It looks pretty similar to my BX2750D blower, so I’m guessing a little.
Fill is the Allen set screw on the left side of the gearbox. Drain is a similar Allen screw on the bottom of the gearbox.
The Allen fill tells you when the gearbox is full.
PS - check the parts diagram. It looks pretty similar to my BX2750D blower, so I’m guessing a little.
I'm pretty sure that bolt on top is *not* the fill port. It looks like it is probably a bolt with locking nut for adjusting the worm gear clearance.
Oil fill will be the plug on the front of the gear box, fill to the bottom of the hole. The drain would be the plug on the right side at the bottom.
Oil fill will be the plug on the front of the gear box, fill to the bottom of the hole. The drain would be the plug on the right side at the bottom.
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I looked at picture again- I think fill and drain might be the two hex head plugs on the right side of the gearbox, not Allen’s. Similar places my Allen’s are.
All may have locktite on them.
My apologies for the bad information. Check a parts diagram or operator manual. As I said, I’m guessing a little.
All may have locktite on them.
My apologies for the bad information. Check a parts diagram or operator manual. As I said, I’m guessing a little.
Last edited:
GreensvilleJay
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Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
top one is the VENT and fill port
side one is 'I'm full',when oil comes out, please stop.
btm one is drain,yeah .remove to drain....
side and btm are probably NPT pipe plugs that ARE locktited in , for NO good reason
you'll need a lot of heat and patience to remove them
BTW if NPT, NOT metric, 3/16"(?) Allen key. Use a NEW one, tap it to be 100% sure it's FULLY in,vice grips on Alley key(tight), pray, then try giving a hard turn.
side one is 'I'm full',when oil comes out, please stop.
btm one is drain,yeah .remove to drain....
side and btm are probably NPT pipe plugs that ARE locktited in , for NO good reason
you'll need a lot of heat and patience to remove them
BTW if NPT, NOT metric, 3/16"(?) Allen key. Use a NEW one, tap it to be 100% sure it's FULLY in,vice grips on Alley key(tight), pray, then try giving a hard turn.
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Rob - strike anything I’ve said as suspect and may be bad advice.
my apologies again for bad information. The front of your gearbox looks like mine on a BX2750D, but different.
The Allen there is the fill. Looks like yours has one in same spot.
Bottom of the gearbox is same, but a drain. Not sure if the drain is the same as yours.
Obviously I have no clue what is what on with your blower.
I shouldn’t guess and point someone in the wrong direction.
I really don’t like to give poor or incorrect advice.
I’ll bow out and wish you the best getting your blower fixed up!
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That's the same gear housing. I thought the vent was the fill. How would you recommend filling from the front plug?
RCW
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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I just cut the spout of a quart 80w-90 gear oil jug small enough to fit in the hole. Squeeze it in.
Fill until it starts to come back out.
Change my gear oil every fall.
Fill until it starts to come back out.
Change my gear oil every fall.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Regardless of what purpose that object on top serves, I assume that it would still have been removable and that the OP would s want to remove and replace it if possible.
I went to https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ and found this descriptive term for item 200 = CAP
If I was in the predicament that @Rob18530 is in here is how I would attempt to resolve this issue
Spray the heck out of the thing with your favorite good penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, Mouse Milk, …) and walk away.
Then order the part number 70060-00840 from the dealer. ( Messicks says it is a vent plug.)
Then every day waiting on the part spray that joint again and again
When the part arrives see how it is made and from what material.
Since I don’t weld very well nor have a welder, I would try to get a qualified welder to attach a large nut or steel bar to the top of the plug if the plug is weldable material.
Then try to get it unscrewed. I prefer to use the nut over the bar myself but have seen both work.
Just be careful not to weld the plug to the case.
If that is successful then replace the plug and use anti seize on the threads.
If not successful I would then try to start drilling the existing plug out starting with a small hole and working up to the diameter of the female threaded hole. Then see what happens and get the remaining material out or tap the hole with the required threads to match the new plug.
Good Luck
I went to https://apps.kubotausa.com/illustrated-parts/ and found this descriptive term for item 200 = CAP
If I was in the predicament that @Rob18530 is in here is how I would attempt to resolve this issue
Spray the heck out of the thing with your favorite good penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Kroil, Mouse Milk, …) and walk away.
Then order the part number 70060-00840 from the dealer. ( Messicks says it is a vent plug.)
Then every day waiting on the part spray that joint again and again
When the part arrives see how it is made and from what material.
Since I don’t weld very well nor have a welder, I would try to get a qualified welder to attach a large nut or steel bar to the top of the plug if the plug is weldable material.
Then try to get it unscrewed. I prefer to use the nut over the bar myself but have seen both work.
Just be careful not to weld the plug to the case.
If that is successful then replace the plug and use anti seize on the threads.
If not successful I would then try to start drilling the existing plug out starting with a small hole and working up to the diameter of the female threaded hole. Then see what happens and get the remaining material out or tap the hole with the required threads to match the new plug.
Good Luck
Heat and crayons (or canning wax) work wonders.
Tough thing with that is you want to heat the hole.
Harder to do on a big chunk. Plus you don't want to damage seals.
Tough thing with that is you want to heat the hole.
Harder to do on a big chunk. Plus you don't want to damage seals.
Runs With Scissors
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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
It's difficult to tell from your picks, but it appears (to me at least) you may not have actually damaged the actual vent itself, just the base of it.
I would open the "actual" fill port and blow air in there to test the vent, and if its still working,
"get some touch up paint, and never speak of this to anyone, ever again".
I would open the "actual" fill port and blow air in there to test the vent, and if its still working,
"get some touch up paint, and never speak of this to anyone, ever again".
In the past I've had plenty of frozen bolts, stripped nuts on Jeeps. The best thing I've found is to weld a nut onto the damaged surface. Just place the nut over the damaged area, and weld the inside of the nut to the surface. It does two things...gives you a new head to use a socket or wrench on, and applies a lot of heat to the area helping to free things. This has always worked for me.
I've had some wins on rusted fasteners with methods recommended here, plus a couple with wax and with a small impact.
Someone on a forum (not sure which) said to warm the fastener and apply candle wax. The area should be heated enough to get the wax to flow into the threads. Don't heat it up much beyond a little too hot to touch. The wax should melt into the joint and not burn off.
The other is LIGHTLY hitting it with an impact wrench and some penetrant or wax. I've even used my 1/4" with just enough trigger to make it hammer lightly. I have gone nuts and twisted a few off. Doesn't hurt to do a little right and left.
Someone on a forum (not sure which) said to warm the fastener and apply candle wax. The area should be heated enough to get the wax to flow into the threads. Don't heat it up much beyond a little too hot to touch. The wax should melt into the joint and not burn off.
The other is LIGHTLY hitting it with an impact wrench and some penetrant or wax. I've even used my 1/4" with just enough trigger to make it hammer lightly. I have gone nuts and twisted a few off. Doesn't hurt to do a little right and left.