Anyone know what size power inverter I can use on a BX2670 to operate a saw, drill, etc. on a BX2670?
BX2670 Power outlet
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North Idaho Wolfman
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The inverter is based on the load you want to run off of it and not the output of the tractors charging system, that is within limits, if it drains the battery down too low the tractor will die and you will not be able to start it, you could also hurt the charging system from it having to work too hard to recharge the battery from the load. 
85Hokie
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Jay,
this is a question that needs a lot more information.
(long post)
For example - what "kinda" drill? What type of saw?
The short answer would be no it is not a good idea to pursue a large inverter - NIW pointed out some details but lets look at the specifics.
here is an example of a random inverter off of amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/KRIËGER®-Inve...qid=1436701611&sr=8-8&keywords=power+inverter
reading the fine print, you see that you can charge cell phones,tablets, computers and "power tools" etc......
Here is where the problems come in - in order to run a "tool" that has to do real work (circular saw, jig saw, drill, electric chain saw ...etc) this real work is where the load is placed on a the electrical circuit of this little magical box. As simple as a power inverter is - is has huge limitations and cannot provide the needed electrical current to power something that needs a constant amp flow.
AN inverter takes DC and converts it to AC ( this is a neat trick all by itself!) and then while doing that, it loses a little "power" and then it must provide a constant electrical flow. In case you dont understand simple electrical terms
, power (watts) = Pressure (volts) x current (amps) - this is as simple as it gets ......you have an outlet in your shop that provides 120v and has a capacity of 20 amps at the outlet....it has a total power output (in a perfect world) of 2400 watts! But this is impractical - if you are every in the bathroom when your wife fires up her hairdryer, what happens ? the lights dim for a second and then everything is fine.....why? Tremendous flow of amps for a small amount of time! When a window mounted AC unit kicks in , lights dim and then everything is fine. In the shop a 7 1/4" circular saw does the same thing - but the wall outlet is designed to handle all of that.
A inverter must take the 12v DC and push it up to 120 AC - it did that by roughly a factor of 10 ,and for the same reason the amps will go down by about a factor of 10 - from 20 to about 2 amps. 2 amps IS enough to run a computer, cell phone charger, a very small drill (maybe) - you would have a problem running two 100 w light bulbs at the same time! But you can by bigger and bigger inverters - they get up there too $$$$ - They must be tapped into the battery directly ( the cig lighter cannot handle that power) and the wires to the battery are getting up there too in gauge.
If you need to be in the woods to run a drill or saw - I would suggest taking the money that would go into a large inverter and accessories and place it in a generator ! You can find a used genny all day on you local craigslist and pay $200 or less and then you can run everything you need without straining the system of the battery and charging system on your Kubota. If you dont have a FEL - I would make a simple "carry all" for the 3 pt place your genny on the carry all and you would have power that you need without breaking the bank!
We had a huge tailgate at the football games before it got out of hand with what we have now! WE would take a fully charged battery(carry in hand) and a decent size inverter and power a single flat screen, a sat box for about 2 hours straight, then when the idiot light came the inverter, we would switch out to a new battery and then it to would fail after about 2 hours.......we would re charge the batteries over the next week and start again! Now we have a honda generator and it runs everything including a smoker and microwave!
on another note - the cost of cordless tools are coming down some much, you can buy a cordless drill/saw and have a lot of power without all the rest of the headache!
85Hokie
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ShaunBlake
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So must we now address him as "Professor Hokie", or will "The Hokey Prof" do?
In any case, it was an very good explanation, with good examples, and a shameless shill to buy generators -- inquiring minds want to know how much Honda stock the professor owns!
In any case, it was an very good explanation, with good examples, and a shameless shill to buy generators -- inquiring minds want to know how much Honda stock the professor owns!
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Thank you. That answers that question. I knew someone here would know. Would have been nice to run a lamp cord out to the BX during a short power outage for light instead of getting out the generator. (or purchasing a PTO generator)
Shaun, now if he ever goes to jail we wil have to call him,,,,,,,,,
wait for it,,,,,
Hokey Pokie ,,,,, snicker
Yeah it would be nice to just have a plug and go,, but its just not enough stuff there to do it,, so yeah like the rest of us ya gota fire up the old gen set
wait for it,,,,,
Hokey Pokie ,,,,, snicker
Yeah it would be nice to just have a plug and go,, but its just not enough stuff there to do it,, so yeah like the rest of us ya gota fire up the old gen set
What I've gathered from reading is that your tractor has a power outlet available into which you want to plug an inverter, right?
Based on my experience, if you are using the smaller and less expensive inverters, you'll plug it into your tractor power receptacle and promptly pop the tractor fuse for that circuit.
I've measured the inrush current when an inexpensive inverter is first turned on and seen (three different instances each on three different inverters of varying rated capacities on two different vehicles) up to 42-amps instantaneous current draw. Vehicle 15-A and 20-A circuit fuses pop almost before the inverter switch is fully 'on'.
Once 'on', the inverter functions fine, as advertised. It's just the startup current inrush that kills the vehicle fuse.
If you plan to use any inverter commonly affordable, hook it directly to your battery with an inline fuse on both hot and ground wires where they hook to battery terminals.
Depending on use, you may find a second battery hooked in parallel will be necessary. Leave the engine running while using the inverter and plan on hooking up a battery 'float' tender when parked back at the barn.
Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
Based on my experience, if you are using the smaller and less expensive inverters, you'll plug it into your tractor power receptacle and promptly pop the tractor fuse for that circuit.
I've measured the inrush current when an inexpensive inverter is first turned on and seen (three different instances each on three different inverters of varying rated capacities on two different vehicles) up to 42-amps instantaneous current draw. Vehicle 15-A and 20-A circuit fuses pop almost before the inverter switch is fully 'on'.
Once 'on', the inverter functions fine, as advertised. It's just the startup current inrush that kills the vehicle fuse.
If you plan to use any inverter commonly affordable, hook it directly to your battery with an inline fuse on both hot and ground wires where they hook to battery terminals.
Depending on use, you may find a second battery hooked in parallel will be necessary. Leave the engine running while using the inverter and plan on hooking up a battery 'float' tender when parked back at the barn.
Please post back your continuing experiences so we may all learn.
Thanks.
Just a shame to have a motor running on diesel fuel at our disposal and we can't use the energy from it to light up a room during a power outage. Guess I could always start up the BX and aim the headlights through the window. lol.
Just a shame to have a motor running on diesel fuel at our disposal and we can't use the energy from it to light up a room during a power outage. Guess I could always start up the BX and aim the headlights through the window. lol.
Yup the inrush is a killer,, they can sometimes go to 1500% of the rated fuse or breaker on motor start up maybe for 1.5 to 2 cycles depending onthe motor, and that way beyond the capabilities of these cheap inverters
I skimmed back over the replies, still wonder how I am able to plug in the yellow strobe/flashing light on roll bar and run, but cant plug a low pulling bulb, LED, or some light in to the 12v accessory outlet to light up the elderly woman across the roads house during outages? I guess it still comes down to set the E brake and aim headlights in her window so she can see. Or go buy a 3rd generator. lol.
Well, for what you describe, you could use an inverter. I have a 90 watt one around here so I could charge my old laptop in my car. It plugs into the 'power outlet' and has a 110 v socket on it. You could run a 60 watt light bulb on its output.
But (there's always a but), if you let it run too long, you'll have a rundown battery. So you're going to let your trusty Kubota run to keep the battery charged. That'll probably be the most expensive electricity ever produced. We all know diesel prices are through the roof, diesel engines at low load are very inefficient, etc. Not to mention wear and tear.
Why not have battery led lights charged up and ready to go? There are all styles out there, some even look sort of like table lamps.
If you really want low-power 110 v available, get a UPS like is used to keep computer equipment going. Keep it plugged in and the battery is automatically kept charged. A lamp plugged into will automatically switch over to emergency power when the outside power fails.
Thanks, all good info on here, I usually tell ppl, go to Dollar General, buy the whole case of $1.00 solar lights, if power goes out bring them all in. Cheap lighting.
Dollar General is no longer a dollar...... everything starts at $1.25....... It is called getting ahead of inflation.
Electrically, looking at watts is a simple way as it is a number that represents load and voltage. 1200 watts is 1200 watts at 12V or 120. At 12 volts it is 100 Amps (at 120, 10 amps), close to triple the output of a BX alternator (40 amps IIRC). But... you have a battery (storage reservoir) that for short high drain will make up for limited alternator output. You run your large 1200 watt saw for five minutes then off for 15 while you nail the board in, leaving the tractor running, the alternator has time to replenish the battery.
To run the load off of the tractor you'll need a inverter that typically has capacity 150% of the largest load. So to safely run your saw, you'd need a 1800 watt minimum inverter.
I have a 2000 watt one for the infrequent times I need AC and it it too far to run a cord or do what ever back at the garage. It was handy cutting bushes with a hedge trimmer along my drive that is until I got a battery operated hedge trimmer. Not enough wood work to justify a battery circular saw.
I'd not use the tractor or the pickup with the inverter to substitute for a genset. Too much of a Rube Goldberg but certainly for small, quick jobs it is a easy solution.
To run the load off of the tractor you'll need a inverter that typically has capacity 150% of the largest load. So to safely run your saw, you'd need a 1800 watt minimum inverter.
I have a 2000 watt one for the infrequent times I need AC and it it too far to run a cord or do what ever back at the garage. It was handy cutting bushes with a hedge trimmer along my drive that is until I got a battery operated hedge trimmer. Not enough wood work to justify a battery circular saw.
I'd not use the tractor or the pickup with the inverter to substitute for a genset. Too much of a Rube Goldberg but certainly for small, quick jobs it is a easy solution.
I think most inverters are between 85-95% efficient. If you assume an average of 90% your 1200 watt load given in the example above by William1 your 12 volt supply would need 111 amps not the 100 . . .
And your alternator life will be greatly shortened if it is running at full output for an extended period trying to support an electrical system being overloaded by an inverter. Very intermittent full load operation is OK but a sustained high inverter load isn't, the cooling design of these small "normal duty" alternators won't support the heat developed in continuous duty full load operation.
When camping, I have my old faithful standby white gas Coleman lantern which puts out a tremendous amount of light (and heat which isn't always a good thing) and a LED Coleman lantern that runs over 150 hours on a set of 4 D cells. The 4 D cell Coleman is under $20 and puts out quite a bit of light. It would be much better for you to walk over with the LED lantern when she needs it and save the tractor for more suitable applications.
Rodger
When camping, I have my old faithful standby white gas Coleman lantern which puts out a tremendous amount of light (and heat which isn't always a good thing) and a LED Coleman lantern that runs over 150 hours on a set of 4 D cells. The 4 D cell Coleman is under $20 and puts out quite a bit of light. It would be much better for you to walk over with the LED lantern when she needs it and save the tractor for more suitable applications.
Rodger