BX23S tire pressure for max traction

[OrangePower]

So, just bought a new BX23s. I plan to use it to level out the yard, hence, scoop up a lot of compacted(?) yard dirt. Plan is to scrape 2-4" of the surface at a time, but, this being my first ever tractor, we will see how it goes.

My first concern and question is traction. I will have the hybrid R14's and I am curious where to air them at to get them to dig into dirt as aggressively as possible. Is it better to have them aired down to get the edges to bite in more, have a level tire or? What PSI should I work with?

Thanks

 

[85Hokie]

The PSI may will be important to a point - but what you REALLY need is weight........

Tires filled?
Ballast Box?
Weights on wheels?
Back hoe? (You mention 23s - so hoe is on?)

And if you are cutting ......... I would get a toothbar of some sort - simply because the bucket will not cut as easily as you might think!

 

[BigG]

I do not believe you will be able to cut the lawn smoothly as you plan. It is very difficult to keep the bucket flat and cut as you plan. You might want to break up the surface by using a tiller, disc or rippers on a box blade. Then you can begin to smooth the lawn. A box blade to begin and then a drag or harrow.

 

[OrangePower]

Dont know if the tires are filled, I forgot to ask, yes backhoe.

The tractor salesman said if I am talented, I might not need a tooth bar. I figure he, of all people, would try to sell me something, but, if he isnt, it can wait. Since I am going to pay for it out of pocket, I decided to wait to see how much fun the bucket blade will be/do by itself.

Not gonna be doing enough work to justify a $700 piece of equipment (least I dont think, right now) and cant find anything on CL for a hundred or 2 I can beat up. Even then, I dont have a 3 point hitch setup (another $300 from the dealer) I would have to get later also.

Just need to make the best of what I have now (TLB) and dig around n see what the tractor can do. Only real thing I can think of for now, until my next move, is tire pressure.

 

[BigG]

Keep the front tires to the max listed on the tires. Drop the rear down to 10 - 15 psi. Good luck.

 

[85Hokie]

Dont know if the tires are filled, I forgot to ask, yes backhoe.

The tractor salesman said if I am talented, I might not need a tooth bar.

For the cost of the toothbar (yes you will wait a bit to get one) it will make you ........ mo' talented!!!!!!!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Anyone that can weld and has a scrap steel bin, can make you a toothbar for a lot less than $700 ! BTDT.ok not as 'pretty' or made from 'fancy steel' BUT in 3 years ,it's chewed up acres of sod, tons of rocks and well far more than pair for itself. Your bucket probably has 7 , 5/8"D holes in it along the front/bottom edge. That's where I mounted mine, as I didn't want to drill holes in it.
You don't mention how MUCH dirt/sod you're going to move, but a small disc helps, or a subsoiler.

 

[OrangePower]

Keep the front tires to the max listed on the tires. Drop the rear down to 10 - 15 psi. Good luck.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[OrangePower]

For the cost of the toothbar (yes you will wait a bit to get one) it will make you ........ mo' talented!!!!!!!

Well, it wasn't so much the cost, for the most part, it was that I have not done any research to see what options of tooth bars are out there. How much talent I can acquire in my cranial cavity? Well, thats to be seen, soon

 

[OrangePower]

Anyone that can weld and has a scrap steel bin, can make you a toothbar for a lot less than $700 ! BTDT.ok not as 'pretty' or made from 'fancy steel' BUT in 3 years ,it's chewed up acres of sod, tons of rocks and well far more than pair for itself. Your bucket probably has 7 , 5/8"D holes in it along the front/bottom edge. That's where I mounted mine, as I didn't want to drill holes in it.
You don't mention how MUCH dirt/sod you're going to move, but a small disc helps, or a subsoiler.

No no, I think tooth bars are around $250 and up to around $400. I was talking about box blades and plows run around $1k, cant find any disks for sale......yet, but, I dont see those being any cheaper.

Hard to say how much dirt. The land is about 300x300 feet (on the generous side) and wavy like a golf course. I have to order a site level and measuring rod to see where the actual peaks and valleys are, but, I would say from one end of the property to the other is about 3 feet taller at the far end from the house. Why the previous owner drained the water towards the house, I do not know.

 

[armylifer]

When you decide to research a tooth bar, consider the piranha tooth bar from https://www.bxpanded.com/piranha-toothbar You might be able to find one cheaper but you will not find one better.

 

[dirtydeed]

agree with BigG. You should be around 10-12 psi in the rear tires. You want as much contact patch with the ground as you can make (ground contact across the entire tread width)...without causing the rims to spin inside the tires.

Keep the hoe on for ballast unless you are using another implement (like a box blade). That hoe is roughly 600 lbs and will really help you get some traction.

Take shallow bites.

Have at it.

 

[Henro]

I have never had much luck when trying to remove more than a little of virgin soil (especially with grass) with my bucket/toothbar combination. And this is with my larger B2910.

A box blade is the tool I prefer. With scarifiers down the soil is broken loose and then scooped up. World of difference. I never even try with my loader bucket anymore with virgin earth.

I am a fan of tooth bars though. So get one and try it out and see what happens. Then remember the box blade option. ALSO remember it is a BX. You will likely run out of traction pretty quick, regardless of how you adjust the tire contact patch.

Still, with your BX you will certainly get a LOT more done than you would by hand. A LOT more. Just ending my comments on a true and positive note!

 

[OrangePower]

Well, one good thing is that this is my first tractor, so, just playing with it for hours will be a great learning experience. Second things is I figure if the bucket doesnt do jack, I will swing around to the backhoe and scrape up the ground a bit to get something. I think she will do "ok", and slow go, but not a total loss, lol.

 

[DustyRusty]

I can appreciate your enthusiasm and desire to do this project yourself, however, if the highs and lows are 3 feet, you should consider having someone come in for a day with a bulldozer that knows what they are doing to resolve your issue. The first thing that they will do will be to scrape off the topsoil, and then they will properly grade the area so the water runs away from your house. What you are attempting to do, is equivalent to bailing out an ocean-going vessel with a coffee cup. Common sense should prevail in these types of situations. You will spend weeks and not accomplish much. Put your time to better use, like planting the lawn after the big machine leaves.

 

[OrangePower]

I dunno............. $500 just to come on site, then $500 hr min 3 hours, I think I will beat the tractor up a little first. I have more time than money, lol.

 

[leveraddict]

Get a box blade!

 

[leveraddict]

Dont drop the pressure on your tires! Last thing you need when working your machine is a flat or a tire spinning on the rim. Keep the backhoe on for weight and you will be able to remove a few inches of soil at a time with the FEL and using the curl/dump when it starts to hang up! Should be no problem unless your dealing with clay or a boulder infested yard. Its called a loader for a reason. Its not meant to dig its not a bull dozer but it will do the job. What you really need is a box blade. I bought my machine for the same reason as you. I removed over a foot of soil in a huge area of my yard and redistributed it where needed. Drop the box blade make a pile turn around and pick it up with the FEL! The rippers will pop rocks right out. If you get hung up just lift the BB and they mostly pop right out of the ground!

 

[GSD-Keegan]

 

[DustyRusty]

I dunno............. $500 just to come on site, then $500 hr min 3 hours, I think I will beat the tractor up a little first. I have more time than money, lol.

You are dealing with the wrong people if they want $500 just to show up and $500 an hour. You don't need a D8 for a simple job. A driveway installer with a JD 350 could do that job in less than a day, and most likely has his own truck and trailer to pull the JD.