BX23s specific significant design flaw/failure point

[Tuckntruck]

Not sure if it’s been covered, but the stainless hydraulic lines that run under the deck to the power steering unit have rubber tubing around them at potential chafe points (under the fuel tank, the deck and where they turn up to the steering head). These rubber tubes hold moisture against the lines and will rust them out. One of mine failed, the other was not far behind. The feed line comes from the back of the pressure regulator and you will dump fluid fast- if you are unlucky it will be in the woods where you don’t see signs of a spill you will dump all the fluid and most likely destroy your pump unit.

it’s a bit of a ball ache, but especially if you use the tractor to clear snow- check these lines periodically. This failure isn’t covered by any sort of warranty. Doesn’t matter if there’s no rust on the rest of the tractor- the lines get hot and when they cool will condense water vapor under the rubber.
Pitch black out at the moment- but will post photos of the lines removed in the morning.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If they were stainless lines they would not rust!
They are just steel lines.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Hmmm. Going to have to check my BX for the same problem.....

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[Tuckntruck]

If they were stainless lines they would not rust!
They are just steel lines.

I see, when ordered it said stainless in the description so I assumed. Stainless steel does still rust however. It’s just more resistant to corrosion.

that being said- in This project I’ve discovered that the BX23 is is a giant lesson in how not to build something.

can’t take the rear deck off without taking the ROPS off, can’t take the ROPs off without the seat mounts,

the threaded part for the ROPs mount on mine are not centered to the hole, and the bolt isn’t long enough to engage it correctly. Two of my bolts were completely trashed when I pulled them out of the lower ROPs, and I simply cannot get the new bolts started again. Quite literally ready to light this POs on fire and walk away.

upper holes not even close to lined up and the OEM bolt was literally just forced in.

ROPS bolt at removed.

Of course it needs to go back to the dealer for inspection… which is on me not Kubota.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Quite literally ready to light this POs on fire and walk away.

Holy Spam Can man, what a P.O.S.! Tell you what, "I'll buy that for a dollar" and haul it away for you as-is and save you the accelerant cost.

(then tear it down, polish everything with a wire wheel "pressing down hard," paint it blue, and never-ever sell it to an unsuspecting buyer)

 

[Tuckntruck]

This is what you’re likely to find under the rubber pads.

 

[Tuckntruck]

Holy Spam Can man, what a P.O.S.! Tell you what, "I'll buy that for a dollar" and haul it away for you as-is and save you the accelerant cost.

(then tear it down, polish everything with a wire wheel "pressing down hard," paint it blue, and never-ever sell it to an unsuspecting buyer)

It certainly is it’s been back to the dealer for warranty work probably six times at $400 per transport. It’s been nothing but problems with this stupid tractor.

 

[Trimley]

Not sure if it’s been covered, but the stainless hydraulic lines that run under the deck to the power steering unit have rubber tubing around them at potential chafe points (under the fuel tank, the deck and where they turn up to the steering head). These rubber tubes hold moisture against the lines and will rust them out. One of mine failed, the other was not far behind. The feed line comes from the back of the pressure regulator and you will dump fluid fast- if you are unlucky it will be in the woods where you don’t see signs of a spill you will dump all the fluid and most likely destroy your pump unit.

it’s a bit of a ball ache, but especially if you use the tractor to clear snow- check these lines periodically. This failure isn’t covered by any sort of warranty. Doesn’t matter if there’s no rust on the rest of the tractor- the lines get hot and when they cool will condense water vapor under the rubber.
Pitch black out at the moment- but will post photos of the lines removed in the morning.

The lines are not stainless. Why, was my question? I've seen plenty of images where the lines are corroded.

 

[Tuckntruck]

The lines are not stainless. Why, was my question? I've seen plenty of images where the lines are corroded.

Ok, doesn’t really matter what they’re made of- the issue being that there’s prob a good number of people about to have this same issue… stuck wondering why they put the bolt under the ROPs on the left side so you can’t take the deck off the back without taking the ROPS off.
(Safety triangle bracket prevents the bolt from coming out)

 

[Trimley]

Ok, doesn’t really matter what they’re made of- the issue being that there’s prob a good number of people about to have this same issue… stuck wondering why they put the bolt under the ROPs on the left side so you can’t take the deck off the back without taking the ROPS off.
(Safety triangle bracket prevents the bolt from coming out)

The hydraulic lines, yes, thats definitely an issue for all. However, more than likely the situation applies to anything steel, driving the roads in your area. The salt eats everything, unfortunately.

The ROP issue, I don't understand, I took the ROP Bar off mine without any problem when I shortened the height.

 

[utterchaos]

It certainly is it’s been back to the dealer for warranty work probably six times at $400 per transport. It’s been nothing but problems with this stupid tractor.

It always Stinks to have a breakdown, but without a doubt Kubota is a top tier brand.

Not specific to Kubota, we all run into those “what were they thinking?” moments. Countless times I’ve had to modify tools, parts, and designs to make them work better.

if the new lines come with attached rubber protection , consider cutting them off and making a shield.

I hope it didn’t run your pump dry and ruin it.

best of luck!

 

[Tuckntruck]

The hydraulic lines, yes, thats definitely an issue for all. However, more than likely the situation applies to anything steel, driving the roads in your area. The salt eats everything, unfortunately.

The ROP issue, I don't understand, I took the ROP Bar off mine without any problem when I shortened the height.

Mine has never touched salt, a salted road or otherwise, we don’t salt dirt roads up here just sand when appropriate - so it’s likely just moisture trapped against the line, and condensation cooling after running.

the lower part of the ROPS mounts - which are bolted to the sub frame /frame and across the top of the hydrostatic unit were assembled mis-aligned. Rather than fixing at the factory they just drove the bolt in with an impact and destroyed the threads. The back side is a nut that’s welded on- but you can’t access it even if I just wanted to knock it off and put a nut on, because it’s blocked by the fuel tank. Fixing it means I’ll need to take most of the back end of the tractor apart, weld the hole full and then re-drill it in the center location.

im pissed about it because I’ve had a lot of issues that never should have passed QA- but now (and even when I was in warranty) Kubota will do everything they can to get out of. On this issue they’re pretty much saying “ gee well that sucks, bring it in and we’ll see what we can do- but it’s not warranty”. Additionally because I don’t have a truck- even for warranty work I’ve had to pay $200 each way to have it picked up and dropped off.
Cracked lift arm for the mower deck? Cost me as much to get it transported as the part to fix it. If they were a top tier brand, when it went back the 3rd time for the fuel injector issue- figured they would have covered transport.

 

[Tuckntruck]

It always Stinks to have a breakdown, but without a doubt Kubota is a top tier brand.

Not specific to Kubota, we all run into those “what were they thinking?” moments. Countless times I’ve had to modify tools, parts, and designs to make them work better.

if the new lines come with attached rubber protection , consider cutting them off and making a shield.

I hope it didn’t run your pump dry and ruin it.

best of luck!

I’ve put a rubber pad on the bottom of the fuel tank, and on the clamps to hold them rather than on the pipe. A rusted clamp is about a 5minute fix vs taking half the tractor apart. Additionally degreased the lines and then painted with air dry cerakote - so they shouldn’t be exposed to the elements again.
Thankfully no other rust on the machine, only on the lines where those pads were.

 

[Henro]

Sounds like you are not a happy camper here...unlike most others that read the forum...My condolences...can't change what you have been experiencing...

Have to check about stainless steel rusting. I don't think it does...can certainly suffer from other corrosion...