BX23S Heater core install question

[leveraddict]

Well I added a Jegs compact heater core to the BX23S. After the install I burped the cooling system and tried it out on the low setting which draws 4.9 amps and it works great! I turned it up to high which draws 9.6 amps and in short time blew the required 7.5 amp inline fuse to the positive battery terminal. Why does it require a 7.5 amp fuse if it can draw 9.6 amps?

 

[leveraddict]

Maybe the in general Chinese instructions that cover every model made? LOL!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

It could be this is the 3 speed version, and the instrucrions were copied from the older 2 speed version.

 

[85Hokie]

You must have one hellva core ..... here is one I just picked at random made by the same company....

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/70609/10002/-1

I would re route an new hot wire - that way you can increase you 7.5 to a 10 or 15 amp fuse.

What CFM did you get by the way?

 

[85Hokie]

you must have got this ONE

 

[leveraddict]

you must have got this ONE

Its #70601 28000 BTU 260 CFM.
So think I should put in a 10 amp fuse or larger?

 

[leveraddict]

Actually, running a heater core cools down the little BX engine which reduces heat to the core. When you turn up the fan I can see the temp gage go down. I have the intake screen under the steering wheel totally blocked off so as to not suck the heated air right out of the cab. I removed two plates on both sides of the battery compartment so the fan can suck air from under the tractor. Ill be watching the temp gage and my even restrict more air flow. We shall see.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

70601 install paper says 15 amp fuse.....

 

[85Hokie]

Its #70601 28000 BTU 260 CFM.
So think I should put in a 10 amp fuse or larger?

I WOULD NOT simply swap out the 7.5 amp fuse for the 10 amp one - unless you are positive of the wire size feeding that circuit. Would hate to have a wire heat up and bad things happen!

 

[bird dogger]

That's the same heater I installed in the B2650. I ran a seperate fused circuit to it. #14 ga. stranded copper wire and fused at 15 amps. Just as Jay notes in his post above. Haven't had any trouble blowing fuses. You'll be toasty warm in your cab with that heater blasting away!!
If you want to start blocking off the tractor's radiator for more heat retention......the corrugated plastic works real well. Take a pair of pliars to squeeze in the outer edges and it should slip right into the same slot as your removeable radiator screen.

I'd start with cutting a large circular pattern out of the middle of the insert. If you need to restrict more, then start filling in that centered circular cutout. Could always use cardboard until you find the right amount of air restriction, then make one out of the plastic material.

 

[leveraddict]

Thanks bird dogger the 15 amp is in already! Thats a great idea on more air restriction and I will give it a try. I dont think you could over do it restricting air flow in cold weather! Just running the heater in fact lowers the engine temperature but its something to keep an eye on!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

There was a picture recently about a 'holey' plywood insert, needs to be 1/4" ply though....Not having any ,I just used 1/2" wide masking tape on the removable screen, 6 one way, 13 the other. I 'think' it's about 50% coverage. I figured stripes would 'even out' the hot vs cold effect of the blockages.
Be nice to see pix of the heater install.... Course that means a cab would be a good start.....

 

[leveraddict]

Here you go Jay! Not the $7000 model but its WARM in there

Heres the heater

I ha

I have this much of the screen covered. 39 degrees heater off 2500 rpm's and no sign of over heating!

 

[Tughill Tom]

Here you go Jay! Not the $7000 model but its WARM in there
View attachment 70832 View attachment 70835
Heres the heater

I ha View attachment 70836
I have this much of the screen covered. 39 degrees heater off 2500 rpm's and no sign of over heating!
View attachment 70837 View attachment 70839

That thing is way bigger than the one in my B3200 which came with the Curtis cab package.

 

[bird dogger]

Here you go Jay! Not the $7000 model but its WARM in there
View attachment 70832 View attachment 70835
Heres the heater

I ha View attachment 70836
I have this much of the screen covered. 39 degrees heater off 2500 rpm's and no sign of over heating!
View attachment 70837 View attachment 70839

Lou, That looks great! Nothing wrong with that cab setup. Same heater as I use. It would be nice to come up with two rotateable deflectors for the round heater openings. You'll maybe find that the hot air blowing right on the one leg gets uncomfortable after a while. Still nicer than freezing in the winter, though. If I come up with something for mine.....I'll let you know.

Somewhere on OTT it was mentioned that in blocking off part of the radiator screen in cold temps to be careful and do it evenly across the fan blade area. If not.....the fan blades might vibrate and may eventually weaken and fail from the constant "loading" and "unloading" as they move into and out of that covered area.

An easy alternative for you might be to cut a "bullseye" cardboard piece and apply it to the center of the your cutout area. The bullseye could be made larger or smaller depending on how much you need to restrict the air.

Or just make the centered cut out circle much smaller to start with (and no blockage anywhere in it). If it's too much restriction....just enlarge it. If not enough.....make another one with a smaller cut out circle. The idea being to equally "load" the fan blades throughout their revolutions. That was their theory, anyway. It would especially make sense if the screen being blocked was real close to the edges of the fan blades. As easy as changing the design is, better to be safe to try prevent something that might happen.

Did you hook up your heater supply hoses in place of the water pump bypass hose? And I agree with you too. I don't think I could overheat the B2650 in the winter time here......especially with the cab heater going. There's still alot of openings underneath the tractor for outside air to get in and get moved around by the engines fan.

Might as well list you Carharts for sale on Craigslist now!!

David

 

[leveraddict]

Bird dogger point taken on the restrictor and fan blades! I tapped into the thermostat housing with Kubota's thermostat riser #13 $36.26 and nipple #14 $26.27. I picked up a "T" at the hardware store for $4.00, Kubota wanted $36 IIRC? I used a $12 Pex brass ball valve for a shut off. The Kubota #15 shut off was like $130!

 

[leveraddict]

A thank you to DustyRusty for this info!

 

[leveraddict]

The thermostat housing has changed a bit since these diagrams were printed. I wish I could have just tapped into the plug in figure 2.2 but its not on mine. The water pump bypass hose is so short and tiny it wasnt an option for me.
Jegs does sell 3" louvers for the openings on the heater!

 

[leveraddict]

Tughill im cheap! The smaller units I saw were in the $300 range. Mine was around $170. Ill bet your heater still keeps you toasty!