If twisting the little BX is normal mine would twist I have a front wheel of the ground quite often mowing up and down steep banks with a 4ft land pride bush hog. If the BX was a big riding mower I would sell it tomorrow. I went to buy a B series and the BX is just a smaller version made with the same parts looks like to me. It sure as hell ant the last two riding mowers I had. My 1800.00 cub cadet was a waist of money and steered me to Kubota. To rough a yard for a riding mower.
BX2370 twisty frame?
- Thread starter BotaLoda
- Start date
Re: Cold Idle
The throttle valve also helps engine braking; hence why most of the older trucks had almost zero engine braking despite the high compression ratios. Remember, the air gets compressed, but it also acts like a spring; once the piston passes TDC, it pushes the piston back down the cylinder, even if no fuel is injected. With a throttle valve there is less air to be compressed.
It's not so much the compression; well it is, but the compression combined with no throttle valve to reduce the air going to the engine at idle and shut down. Some of the new diesels do and they shut down a lot cleaner. I think the Duramax diesels have them; as well as the 6.7 Ford's' maybe even the Cummins Ram (Dodge dont' make trucks anymore) too, I don't know. But it sure smooths the shut down process. I used to (unfortunately) own a '99 Dodge diesel and when shutting down it would shake the entire truck. Stick your hand over the turbo when someone turns the key off and it is a LOT cleaner shutdown.
The throttle valve also helps engine braking; hence why most of the older trucks had almost zero engine braking despite the high compression ratios. Remember, the air gets compressed, but it also acts like a spring; once the piston passes TDC, it pushes the piston back down the cylinder, even if no fuel is injected. With a throttle valve there is less air to be compressed.
I finally had got it to the dealer, and after a week they told me there is nothing wrong with it. Thing is my trailer isn't long enough to load it with the FEL, and well leverage is EVERYTHING with a problem like mine. I bought a CD rom with all the torque specs, although it's not great, it's not in Adobe Acrobat format, it's just an entire paper manual scanned. That makes looking up torque specs a bit of a chore. So I'm going to focus on all the largest frame bolts and see how it stacks up with it's current torque, tighten if needed and try again. There was even a factory rep at the dealer and he said there is nothing wrong with it.
So much for my service guy. I found 3 of the 14mm bolts behind the right wheel loose, like torqued to less than 60ft.lb. when it calls for around 100. And ALL of the loader mounts where about 90 to 100 when it calls for up to 166ft.lb.
I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me how tight there's are torqued. Also the manual with the torque specs I got is older, if someone could tell me the torque specs out of a newer manual I'd really appreciate it in case the newer manual is different. Specifically for 14mm and 16mm 8.8 bolts. My manual shows for 14mm 91.2-108ft.lb and 16mm 145-166ft.lb. I'd really like to know if a newer manual is the same.
Thanks
I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me how tight there's are torqued. Also the manual with the torque specs I got is older, if someone could tell me the torque specs out of a newer manual I'd really appreciate it in case the newer manual is different. Specifically for 14mm and 16mm 8.8 bolts. My manual shows for 14mm 91.2-108ft.lb and 16mm 145-166ft.lb. I'd really like to know if a newer manual is the same.
Thanks
I checked mine awhile ago and they were fine, per my manual which should be exactly like yours
View attachment 31140
Hard to read, 108ft lbs
View attachment 31140
Hard to read, 108ft lbs
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Oh man! When I asked the dealer for the torque specs the guy said Kubota doesn't like to give them out to anyone and the mechanics have to buy the manuals on a CD that costs them over $100! So I looked on ebay and found one on a CD for about $8. and bought it. It works and I copied it to the computer here and the one in the garage, but the quality isn't great, it's a scan of an entire manual, the same manual you pointed me to except the free one is a lot better quality. Friggen dealer. The dealer on ebay I don't really blame, he went to a lot of trouble scanning all three manuals. Sure he is selling copies of copyrighted material but at least he only charged $8. The dealer giving out false information is who pisses me off.
Anyhow if you got this far, thanks for pointing me to kubotabooks.com
tcrote5516
New member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, 50" Front Blower, Heated Cab, 6' blade, 3pt carry all, 3pt hitch
Well something isn't right. I've put my BX in all kinds of crazy, off kilter situations with my very hilly property and can tell you the frame is stiff as a wedding prick I get absolutely no flex in the frame or radiated through the body panels no matter how much weight I'm carrying on either end.
I get absolutely no flex in the frame or radiated through the body panels no matter how much weight I'm carrying on either end.I have yet to "test" it out since I torqued a load of loose bolts (that were supposedly tight). Ya know, I don't even recall if it did it without the FEL on it, but I'll try it without first.Well something isn't right. I've put my BX in all kinds of crazy, off kilter situations with my very hilly property and can tell you the frame is stiff as a wedding prick
The issue with vibration on a slope could be an engine mount rubbing on frame, that was a problem on my bx2660. Dealer cut off the offending piece - problem solved
Yes, he did tell me it was a motor mount and I even asked him to show it to me. He wasn't nice enough to cut it for me, said that's the nature of the beast. I had no time to look at it for a while and now I'll be damned if I can find the mount he showed me. I'm sure I'll find it when I pull the engine cover/surround. Got to remove the front grill/guard first.
I drove it today with just one front wheel up a ramp. The hood cocked a little bit, not much, BUT that is without the FEL on it!
If anyone can clue me in where to look for loose frame bolts that would be great. I already got the ones around the rear wheel area and the 4 in the bottom center rear frame. And not that it will effect that, but tightened the loader mount brackets that were really under torqued.
Located that thing that vibrates the frame when leaning to the right, it's not even a motor mount, it's a piece of 1/4" plate at an angle specifically put there to keep the motor from moving to far. With it turned off there is maybe a 1/8" gap between it and the right side frame. If you look down at the dipstick bottom area, then just about 3" to the rear you will see it. That's just to locate it, it's very easy to see below the motor shroud on the right side. Looks like one heck of a sorry fix, I can wobble the motor myself by hand enough to make that part hit the frame. They used some awfully weak motor mounts. I'm curious if older models have the same thing or this is something newer?
If anyone can clue me in where to look for loose frame bolts that would be great. I already got the ones around the rear wheel area and the 4 in the bottom center rear frame. And not that it will effect that, but tightened the loader mount brackets that were really under torqued.
Located that thing that vibrates the frame when leaning to the right, it's not even a motor mount, it's a piece of 1/4" plate at an angle specifically put there to keep the motor from moving to far. With it turned off there is maybe a 1/8" gap between it and the right side frame. If you look down at the dipstick bottom area, then just about 3" to the rear you will see it. That's just to locate it, it's very easy to see below the motor shroud on the right side. Looks like one heck of a sorry fix, I can wobble the motor myself by hand enough to make that part hit the frame. They used some awfully weak motor mounts. I'm curious if older models have the same thing or this is something newer?