BX2370 assistance

[Kpost2]

I bought a used a bx2370 and was told that the deck belt needs to be changed by the mechanic that I just paid 2K to put new rear seals etc in to stop the leaking fluid. . As I bought it used does anyone out there know the part number for a 60 inch deck,,?
Also, should I remove the battery over the winter? I do not plow snow with it, yet. Thanks for the help in advance. Kpost

 

[DustyRusty]

$2,000 to replace seals in a leaking deck is ridiculous! Whoever suggested that mechanic must have gotten a fantastic commission check! Why wouldn't the person that overcharged you have not suggested that the belt be replaced when everything was apart? I suggest that you find an honest mechanic for the future or go to a reliable Kubota dealer to have work done.

 

[85Hokie]

Double check this info BEFORE ordering :

https://www.amazon.com/Deck-Belt-KUBOTA-Replaces-K5371-34710/dp/B07M7XLBSQ

No need to remove the battery - get you one of these and simply hook it up over the winter - I have 5 of these and they never have let me down.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS1...897169&sprefix=battery+tender+g,aps,69&sr=8-2

 

[Dave_eng]

$2,000 to replace seals in a leaking deck is ridiculous! Whoever suggested that mechanic must have gotten a fantastic commission check! Why wouldn't the person that overcharged you have not suggested that the belt be replaced when everything was apart? I suggest that you find an honest mechanic for the future or go to a reliable Kubota dealer to have work done.

Not certain he means seals in the deck but perhaps the tractor. Regardless, absent more details, $2,000 is a lot.
Dave

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, I was thinking read axle seals ?? seen a fancy $5 tool that gets them out ,so 10 minute job.
Maybe this tractor you have to tear it apart ???
$2000 means 20 HOURS shop time, so THREE days ??

 

[Kpost2]

Ok, let me explain better. There was a leak , hydraulic fluid, from the front steering wheel under the front wheel. The machine was also leaking fluid from the back behind the wheel. It had a bad seal in the hydraulic transmission to the wheel thingy. In order to fix this they had to pull out and put in new seals all the way out to the wheels. It was very labor intensive. Just got it back the other day and it seems both leaks are fixed.
When I bought it the guy noticed the leak and took 1k off the price as he never noticed it.
When I took it to the dealership the guy started hitting me with numbers, like changing the oil $350, I needed new tires he told me then he said the belt on the deck needed to be replaced for about $400. I was like whoa, let me think about this later.
When I got the call that it was done, I decided to do the belt myself. They had it for 6 weeks, they were very busy. It's ok cuz I can't mow in the snow. So that about sums it up. I did mow all summer with it last year when I bought it, and didn't notice the, belt being that bad. I just wanted to know the part.

The barn where she is staying is about 100 yards away from my house, so I can't really run extension cords all that way. I will check out your suggestions though. The wife is starting to not like spending the money on my new baby. I think she might be jealous. Thanks kpost

 

[85Hokie]

The barn where she is staying is about 100 yards away from my house, so I can't really run extension cords all that way. I will check out your suggestions though. The wife is starting to not like spending the money on my new baby. I think she might be jealous. Thanks kpost

They do make a solar battery tender too

https://www.amazon.com/Maintainer-W...efix=solar+battery+tender,aps,72&sr=8-14&th=1

 

[ve9aa]

Solar.
I am sure most anyone could change a mower deck belt.

 

[Boatman]

Just disconnect the battery so there is no parasitic drain. It will be fine for the few months left before mowing season.

I say this having had a marine business in upstate NY. Stored ~50 boats every winter. Batteries were disconnected. In the spring each was put on charge and within a few minutes the charger showed full charge. The only batteries that failed were already on there last leg.... 5+ years old.

 

[Boatman]

As for the belt you need to check the model and serial number on the mower deck. There are 2 different belts listed depending on serial number.

 

[Kpost2]

Thanks for the help, I went out and pulled the battery out. It is a May of 2015 date on it. It still cranks pretty good though.
I also got the numbers from the deck. I checked on line and I saw a belt that was 80 rather than 118. I am not sure if I should get it or not. The adage that you get what you pay for. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Kpost

 

[Boatman]

I've found cheaper belts are sometimes fine but have had instances where they weren't. Tough call. Can you take a close up picture of the belt? Can you see wear or damage?

 

[Henro]

Thanks for the help, I went out and pulled the battery out. It is a May of 2015 date on it. It still cranks pretty good though.
I also got the numbers from the deck. I checked on line and I saw a belt that was 80 rather than 118. I am not sure if I should get it or not. The adage that you get what you pay for. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Kpost

I got 18 years out my BX2200 mower deck belt, so I decided to buy the Kubota belt although more expensive than the aftermarket ones.

Did not change it yet, but the amazing thing is that although the original belt divided and is now working like two parallel single belts, it still works. Plan on changing it in the spring...

"Penny wise, pound foolish" comes to mind. I guess that must refer to the British currency...

I decided just to spend the extra dollars and hope for 18 more years of use. BUT even ten years would be acceptable.

 

[whitetiger]

It had a bad seal in the hydraulic transmission to the wheel thingy. In order to fix this they had to pull out and put in new seals all the way out to the wheels. It was very labor intensive.

Are you saying the rear axle seals were what was leaking? If they were, one hour will replace both sides and no removal of the trans-axle is necessary.

 

[Kpost2]

They fixed the leak up front, then they worked on the back one. At first they were hoping that they could slip the new o ring, or whatever it was, on and that would be all. It didn't work so they ended up pulling out the whole axle and other things. It was very labor intensive. They were also thinking that they might need to put in a new axle. Luckily no.

 

[whitetiger]

They fixed the leak up front, then they worked on the back one. At first they were hoping that they could slip the new o ring, or whatever it was, on and that would be all. It didn't work so they ended up pulling out the whole axle and other things. It was very labor intensive. They were also thinking that they might need to put in a new axle. Luckily no.

Look at your work order and post the part numbers of the seals/o-rings used.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

man, if I could SCAM someone 2K to fix a seal, I'd put the belt on 'free of charge'. Really, you need to find an HONEST repair shop....and yes,like others here, I'd love to see the invoice you got. Also IF they did open up the unit all the mtg bolts would be super clean....
as for the 100yds..no power, that's an easy todo. get a spool9magically 300' , +-100m)dig trench, lay a polypipe in it, pull cable through. Use 10/3 or 12/3 so you'll get TWO 15a circuits. 1 for lights, 1 for tools....

 

[SRRGC1]

Disconnect the battery and if still concerned, take it inside and put a battery tender on it. I have found for me, by putting a tender on the battery during periods of non-use, it seems to prolong overall battery life. I believe you MAY have to loosen the deck gear housing some to install a new mower deck belt. Not sure without looking in OM. I am not there yet. They do make a tool, which I have one, to pull the idler pully against spring tension when reconnecting the belt. Kubota does recommend releasing spring tension on the belt during long periods of non-use, but who in the hell is going to do that. I did once. In my opinion, purchase the Kubota belt, unless you enjoy changing that belt. This is NOT an MTD product.

 

[Henro]

man, if I could SCAM someone 2K to fix a seal, I'd put the belt on 'free of charge'. Really, you need to find an HONEST repair shop....and yes,like others here, I'd love to see the invoice you got. Also IF they did open up the unit all the mtg bolts would be super clean....
as for the 100yds..no power, that's an easy todo. get a spool9magically 300' , +-100m)dig trench, lay a polypipe in it, pull cable through. Use 10/3 or 12/3 so you'll get TWO 15a circuits. 1 for lights, 1 for tools....

Agree, but we need to remember that sometimes what people post is not all the details, or if they try to post all the details they may not understand what they are posting and it may not exactly represent the true situation.

Myself, if I were to put power into a remote location, however far away, I would oversize the feed cables and install a sub panel like I did in my shed, which is only maybe 80 feet or so as the cable runs from the exterior of my house. BUT even if 300 feet, I would do the same thing.

In my case I put a 100 amp sub panel in the shed. BUT I think if 300 feet away, I could have easily put a 60 amp panel in, accounting for voltage drop at maximum load.

My experience tells me if you are going to do it, do it right the first time. More is better, even if you never use it. It will be there if you need to use it in the future. AND less voltage loss over time if you never use the excess capability.

Not that the OP asked us for such opinions...LOL

Just me maybe...but works for me...

 

[lugbolt]

If you do the rear axle seals by the book, yeah I can see it being a ton of labor.

If you do it the easy way (which the book doesn't tell you about), it saves a ton of labor.

Different shops do things differently. Some shops require techs to do it "by the book", some say do it the best way possible..

Installing that deck belt isn't terribly hard, but most novices get lost in how to get the belt routed around/through the guides, pulleys, and gearbox. Then ya gotta figure out how put the spring back on....that spring is STOUT. I have a way to do it. I took an old piece of crate metal and made a spring puller tool, using an S-hook on the spring end and a way to grab the other end (T-handle in my case). You can walk the belt on too but if you get a finger in between the pulley and the belt, you'll wish you'd have use the spring install trick. The book tells you one way to do it, seasoned techs usually have another way. BX decks and ZD decks are all very similar. And the old G-series decks as well as the ZG 222/227/etc.