Bx2350 keeps blowing 15amp fuse.

[slaphappypappy]

My Bx2350 keeps blowing the 15 amp. Fuse. First thought fuel pump was going out and it was so I changed it. And did a full service job filters, oil, belts, ect. Hoping that would fix the issue and it did not. The tractor runs for about 20min. Then blows the 15amp accessory fuse replace the fuse and then it blows again in about 5 min. Could it be a relay issue? A shorted wire? I'm at a complete loss. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TheOldHokie]

My Bx2350 keeps blowing the 15 amp. Fuse. First thought fuel pump was going out and it was so I changed it. And did a full service job filters, oil, belts, ect. Hoping that would fix the issue and it did not. The tractor runs for about 20min. Then blows the 15amp accessory fuse replace the fuse and then it blows again in about 5 min. Could it be a relay issue? A shorted wire? I'm at a complete loss. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

It is a short or a device that is drawing an excessive load. You trouble shoot it like any short - with the wiring diagram and selective elimination of devices and/or sections of the circuit.

Dan

 

[GreensvilleJay]

In the 'electrical diagrams' sub folder, post #13, there's the BX23S wiring that White tiger posted.
it 'should' or 'may' be very close to the BX2350 version ???

'Accessory' fuse just goes direct to the 'cigar lighter' in the box on the left fender. It may me the 'feed' wire is being randomly pinched and shorting to ground.

 

[slaphappypappy]

It is a short or a device that is drawing an excessive load. You trouble shoot it like any short - with the wiring diagram and selective elimination of devices and/or sections of the circuit.

Dan

Thank you Dan. Looks like I have my work cut out.

 

[slaphappypappy]

In the 'electrical diagrams' sub folder, post #13, there's the BX23S wiring that White tiger posted.
it 'should' or 'may' be very close to the BX2350 version ???

'Accessory' fuse just goes direct to the 'cigar lighter' in the box on the left fender. It may me the 'feed' wire is being randomly pinched and shorting to ground.

I found the fuel pump is on that same 15 amp fuse as well.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I don't know why an accessory fuse is stopping it from running?

In the 'electrical diagrams' sub folder, post #13, there's the BX23S wiring that White tiger posted.
it 'should' or 'may' be very close to the BX2350 version ???

'Accessory' fuse just goes direct to the 'cigar lighter' in the box on the left fender. It may me the 'feed' wire is being randomly pinched and shorting to ground.

Hey here is a novel concept, instead of guessing if a BX23S has the same wiring why don't we look at the wiring diagram of a BX2350.

@slaphappypappy has it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I found the fuel pump is on that same 15 amp fuse as well.

Ok your looking at it wrong and /or either has the wrong fuse or wrong placement of that fuse.
The Fuel pump runs off of the second fuse down in that block which should be a 10 amps fuse.
The third fuse down is the accessory fuse and it should be 15 amps.
That fuse and circuit (Red / Yellow) runs three things, the fuel pump, the flasher and the alternator.
Disconnect each one till you find the problem.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I never said the BX23S has the same wiring as the BX2350... I did suggest it'd be close as they're in the same 'family'.
Unfortunately Kubota doesn't put the wiring diagrams in the OWNERS manual, unlike other companies. At the very least they should be easily available online from Kubota.
Perhaps someone can post all the various wiring diagrams in the electrical subsection ? That way everyone could readily find and download their tractor's wiring diagram and troubleshoot their problem.

 

[shelkol]

Fuses blow by getting hot. A 15 amp fuse should blow within 90 seconds if you are drawing 16 amps through it ( approximations. check the fuse specs) The same 15 amp fuse would blow in less than a second if you were running lets say 50 amps through it.

Since in your case it takes a while to blow, it probably isn't a dead short, but is drawing more current than 15 amps. So, yes, you're going to have to find it by elimination

 

[GreensvilleJay]

It can easily be a frayed wire causing a dead short. Some random event ( one example...hard seat bounce.... ) can push the frayed wire to ground so bzzzap... fuse blows. Time to blow is based on when the 'event' occours not actual time from starting up the engine.
You really need the wiring diagram as the starting point even though the wiring is simple.

 

[slaphappypappy]

Ok your looking at it wrong and /or either has the wrong fuse or wrong placement of that fuse.
The Fuel pump runs off of the second fuse down in that block which should be a 10 amps fuse.
The third fuse down is the accessory fuse and it should be 15 amps.
That fuse and circuit (Red / Yellow) runs three things, the fuel pump, the flasher and the alternator.
Disconnect each one till you find the problem.

Ok your looking at it wrong and /or either has the wrong fuse or wrong placement of that fuse.
The Fuel pump runs off of the second fuse down in that block which should be a 10 amps fuse.
The third fuse down is the accessory fuse and it should be 15 amps.
That fuse and circuit (Red / Yellow) runs three things, the fuel pump, the flasher and the alternator.
Disconnect each one till you find the problem.

When I pull the 15 amp. Acc fuse the one that keeps blowing the fuel pump get no power and the tractor dies. No other fuses are affected. The 20 amp. Fuse for the lights did pop but it has been fine since I replaced it a month ago. Could it be a short? One of my guys disconnected the 12 volt outlet several years ago. Maybe those wire are shorting?

 

[DustyRusty]

Considering the amount of dirt in your fuse block, it could be bad connections. I suggest you spray the fuse block with brake cleaner with the fuses out of it and blow it dry with compressed air. Then reinstall the fuses if the connections appear to be clean. Not saying that this will solve the problem but it might. You will have a clean fuse block for your next picture if nothing else.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Is that in the Operators manual?
And if it is could you give me a picture of the front cover and the part number on the last page.
The reason I ask is it doesn't match the WSM (which is almost always more acurate).

 

[slaphappypappy]

Considering the amount of dirt in your fuse block, it could be bad connections. I suggest you spray the fuse block with brake cleaner with the fuses out of it and blow it dry with compressed air. Then reinstall the fuses if the connections appear to be clean. Not saying that this will solve the problem but it might. You will have a clean fuse block for your next picture if nothing else.

Oh man you ain't joking! I have scraped pounds of dirt and grime off this thing.

Is that in the Operators manual?
And if it is could you give me a picture of the front cover and the part number on the last page.
The reason I ask is it doesn't match the WSM (which is almost always more acurate).

Loop
Yes this is the one that came with the tractor.

 

[slaphappypappy]

Considering the amount of dirt in your fuse block, it could be bad connections. I suggest you spray the fuse block with brake cleaner with the fuses out of it and blow it dry with compressed air. Then reinstall the fuses if the connections appear to be clean. Not saying that this will solve the problem but it might. You will have a clean fuse block for your next picture if nothing else.

Oh man you ain't joking! I have scraped pounds of dirt and grime off this thing.

Is that in the Operators manual?
And if it is could you give me a picture of the front cover and the part number on the last page.
The reason I ask is it doesn't match the WSM (which is almost always more acurate).

Loop

 

[slaphappypappy]

Considering the amount of dirt in your fuse block, it could be bad connections. I suggest you spray the fuse block with brake cleaner with the fuses out of it and blow it dry with compressed air. Then reinstall the fuses if the connections appear to be clean. Not saying that this will solve the problem but it might. You will have a clean fuse block for your next picture if nothing else.

Oh man you ain't joking! I have scraped pounds of dirt and grime off this thing.

Is that in the Operators manual?
And if it is could you give me a picture of the front cover and the part number on the last page.
The reason I ask is it doesn't match the WSM (which is almost always more acurate).

Loop

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Well there are 2 different manuals for that tractor:

K2683-71251 and K2581-71213
Now if there is a difference in the manuals I couldn't tell you.

Let's skip the OPM
Get me a color of the wire that the fuse your pulling is connected to.

 

[jaxs]

I believe you have enough evidence to know what to look for ( high resistance in a device or connection) and where to begin( the dirty fuse box). A contact/connection with high resistance overheats in use causing resistance to increase which in turn results in increased amps. You need a meter capable of measuring at least 20 amp and preferably fused in case of overload. With system cold/not been in operation for a few hours, start engine then test across problem fuse for voltage drop. Any amount,even a fraction of a volt is cause for concern and likely the problem you are looking for. Remove all fuses and closely examine fuse holder #3 for corrosion and sign of discoloration from being hot. Whether you use Breakclean or soap and water to clean fuse box I recommend using electrical cleaner afterwards to assure contact surfaces are clean. In case of sever damage Scotch Brite pad or 400 grit sandpaper might be required. I can attest that Deoxit D-5 works and Deoxit Shield S-Series keeps it clean for years.
If there is no voltage drop across fuse,kill engine,remove fuse #3 and put amp meter in it's place. Restart engine and note amps. If amps are 13 or above I would suggest moving part of load to an empty slot or in-line fuse. A load of 75% fuse rating is about right. Once fuse slot #3 is 11 amp load or less,keep meter in place of fuse and watch for amps to gradually increase over 20 minutes or suddenly go up sharply. If amps slowly go up but remain below 15 amps,stop,reinstall 15 amp fuse,restart engine and test across relays,wire plugs and other connections for the slightest voltage drop. I have a dedicated pair of meter leads with 1/8" long sewing needles soldered on tips that alow me to penitrate wire insulation without damaging. You can poke straight pins in wires then touch with meter probes.
If amps shoot up suddenly that might indicate short circuit or shorting device. .If that happens we can discuss ways to track it down.
Good luck,if any of this is unfamiliar there are some folks here that can answer questions and/or suggest different approach.

 

[jeffmcCath92]

Thanks for the useful comments.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

curious, if anyone's found a wiring diagram for his BX2350 ?