BX23 U-Joint: Aftermarket Part

[Happytule]

Hi, all-

I lost the front U-Joint on my BX23.

I read a post where someone suggested purchasing a non-Kubota U-Joint, with grease fittings, from NAPA.

I called NAPA and was told they probably have one that will fit, but they don't know what size I need and it will be a matter of trying different sizes until one fits.

To save having to buy a dozen U-Joints, or having to make a dozen trips to my local NAPA, I'm hoping someone here can tell me what size U-Joint I need or, even better, provide a NAPA part number?

Best,

Chris

 

[Roadworthy]

To save travel time perhaps you could just take your existing U joint to the local NAPA dealer. If you can't take the part in they can tell you what and how to measure to ensure a proper fit. As an added thought perhaps you even have a drive line shop locally. They specialize in drive lines and U joints. Locally we have one called Six States and they work on big trucks, pickups, cars, and agricultural equipment. I had them do some custom work to a PTO drive line and got out for well under $100.

 

[MadMax31]

To save travel time perhaps you could just take your existing U joint to the local NAPA dealer. If you can't take the part in they can tell you what and how to measure to ensure a proper fit. As an added thought perhaps you even have a drive line shop locally. They specialize in drive lines and U joints. Locally we have one called Six States and they work on big trucks, pickups, cars, and agricultural equipment. I had them do some custom work to a PTO drive line and got out for well under $100.

It does say he lost it...

 

[Henro]

Coincidence, but I lost the front U-joint on my BX 2200 last week. It’s the one closer to the transmission shaft. (Really lost- the roll pin that holds it on broke and it fell off)

Anyway, the replacement from Kabota was about 83 bucks. I got it from Coleman equipment with some other things I needed and it arrived in two days.

Wouldn’t you know that after I looked everywhere, including on top of the deck, for the U joint, when I pulled the deck out I found the U joint under some grass on top of the deck.

The front U-joint near the differential his cheaper at about 50 bucks or so.

These prices are for the bx2200, but my guess your model would be about the same.

Did you mean you lost the U-joint, or that it failed? My original is still in good shape with over 1200 hours on it. Now a spare...

Bill

 

[Happytule]

Did you mean you lost the U-joint, or that it failed? My original is still in good shape with over 1200 hours on it. Now a spare...

I lost it after it fell off. Actually I found it, didn't realize what it came off of and......I may have thrown it away!!!

Or, it may be sitting in the grudge somewhere, just waiting for me to buy a new one before it shows up again.

I guess I'll give Colman a call tomorrow...

 

[PA452]

Four years ago when I bought my used BX23, I didn't have it more than a couple weeks I bet before I had that happen too. Kind of a poor design, didn't realize it was such a common problem. The spline on the shaft wears enough that torque gets put on the roll pin, which the roll pin is not designed for, snaps it off and then eventually the u-joint pulls off the shaft. I replaced it with a bolt, but someday that shaft would probably need replaced as that spline continues to wear.

 

[Henro]

... The spline on the shaft wears enough that torque gets put on the roll pin, which the roll pin is not designed for, snaps it off and then eventually the u-joint pulls off the shaft. I replaced it with a bolt, but someday that shaft would probably need replaced as that spline continues to wear.

That end of the u-joint is fixed in position by the roll pin. Curious why you attribute the issue to splines wearing.

Not saying that you are not right.

I think the installation orientation of the split in the roll pin is given somewhere. I remember seeing an illustration.

I believe the split is oriented so that any looseness in the splines will cause the pin to change diameter slightly. (Split pointing in the direction the splines are pointing).

Perhaps the root cause of the roll pins breaking is improper installation of the roll pin, which eventually causes the pin to shear.

This is speculation on my part as I do not remember an explanation being give for the recommended orientation.

 

[PA452]

The spline on the shaft on my BX23 was worn when my u-joint pulled off. When sticking it back on, there was clear play between the shaft and the u-joint, and it looked like the worst of the wear was on the shaft on mine.

The spline is supposed to take the torque, the roll pin is just supposed to keep the u-joint on the shaft. But if the spline wears to the point that the u-joint turns enough on the shaft that the hole isn't lined up, now you're applying torque to the roll pin before the spline takes the torque. The roll pin isn't designed for that, so it shears off and now you have nothing holding the u-joint on.

 

[Henro]

How many hours on your BX? Mine had a little over 1,200 when I noticed 4wd was not working and found the u-joint missing.

Wonder why your splines show excessive wear? The fit of the new u-joint on my shaft seemed good but I did not look that carefully. I will have to look at the original u-joint and see if excessive spline wear is apparent on the end where the roll pin is used.

Bill

 

[Happytule]

Just in case anyone looks at this thread down the road, there are 2 u-joints on the frontmost driveshaft that goes from the front axle to a mounting bracket approx under the HST pedal.

The one I lost was measured to have an overall length of 4.5 inches.

I ordered a new u-joint from Coleman Equipment, but they sent me the frontmost u-joint.

This u-joint has an overall length of 3.5 inches & has a hole on both ends for a pin.

I fought with this u-joint for 6 months before figuring out I had the wrong u-joint.

Unfortunately Coleman Equipment doesn't want to hear from me at this point. Oh, well, Messick's was happy to sell me the right part.

Next time I will be sure to check the parts diagram before I order a part.

The incorrect u-joint was about $50 while the correct u-joint was $85, so you should be able to use the price to help confirm you are getting the correct part.