bx2230

[lakebota]

Hi all, new here 1st post. I found this site trying to ferret out a problem with a lightly used (200 hr) bx2230 I just bought (upraded from old b1550).
Tractor was bought as is and with a issue I'm working through that lead me to find this site. Have done a lot of reading and research still have not identified problem.
Issues: smokes light grey on cold-start, slight amount on re-start, fuel in oil.
Done so far: checked glow plugs and checked injectors (with inj tester). Return line to fuel tank is clear (blew compressed air through). Filter clean and no water present. Injectors mist a good pattern, yet maybe a large amount for such a small engine. I realize there is no way to adjust these and they are original to the motor so probably fine. I may compare them to the 1550 injectors to verify.
Where I'm at: fuel shutoff solenoid. I'm not sure if it it operating correctly. I turn off key solenoid pulls in and shuts off fuel and proper shutdown follows. 15-20 seconds later solenoid releases. Is this proper?
I plan to drain fuel and replace with known good to be sure. I also plan to exchange the battery with the 3 month old one in the 1550.
Any comments on the solenoid and what else I should be considering as a culprit?
I don't have an adapter to check compression and am in the process of locating one for my gauge. I believe ther is adequate pressure

 

[Stubbyie]

Your fuel in oil sounds like the larger problem. No experience in this area myself but other posters here have reported a failure in the pickup fuel pump or injector pump (some models) gasket allowing fuel into the crankcase. Do a search on this forum and you might turn up other experiences to guide you.

The stop solenoid you describe seems to be working as mine does. Allows proper start and run and when you shutdown by turning key off the engine dies and (on mine) about five seconds later the solenoid 'clunks' as it releases. And it is reset to start correctly next time. Does this on both our Kubotas.

You mention 15-20-secs---seems longer than I would expect. Might do a quick check for anything binding and or clean the electrical contacts. I'd be reluctant to apply any spray lube as might somehow short out the two (probably two--a 'pull' and a 'hold') coils in the solenoid. Might lightly grease the shaft where it enters/exits solenoid can-type enclosure. Otherwise it's working; not much to worry about.

If your model has the pull-knob rod / cable compression release also aboard remember to exercise it by occasional use.

 

[lakebota]

Re: bx2230 fuel in oil

I just noticed I did not complete my subject line. New to this...
Thank you for anwsering the solenoid operation. I was not sure if the solenoid needed to remain in the retracted position to cut off fuel. It sounds like it is operating correctly.
I will now continue with the other items (seal in injector pump and lift pump).
I need to proceed one step at a time.
My 1550 has a manual shutoff and this solenoid controlled shutoff is my first experience, needed to verify correct operation.
If anyone has a dead glo-plug or injector, I'm interested so I can braze up an adapter to take compression test. Either will work as I am going to gut it out and use the threaded portion only.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Light gray smoke on start is not that big of an issue... Unless its excessive, or continues for a long period the time.
It could be as simple as a bad valve stem seal, scuffed / scratched cylinder walls, and or rings, or thinned oil from fuel in the oil.
Does it use oil?
The gray smoke could be from fuel getting into the oil and thinning it too.
I would eliminate the fuel problem first then address the smoking issue if it continues.
Fuel can get into the oil one of three ways, bad mechanical fuel pump, bad Injection pump seals, and very rarely flooding injectors, this one almost always will just kill the motor.
The amount of fuel that comes out of the injectors is not controlled by the injector its self, but controlled by the injector pump, so them seaming to "put out too much fuel" is not a good indication of them being bad, it's more of a pattern thing.
Yes low compression can also contribute to gray smoke on start up, quick check of the blow by will tell you if it's got bad rings, Does it smoke or blow excessively out of the breather?

 

[lakebota]

I bought this just last friday and began digging in on saturday. Yesterday tested injectors and understand what you are saying that fuel metering is handled by the pump. I need to locate an adapter or cobble one together to do compression and leak-down, likely after tomorrows planned work. I also neglected to mention the tractor is a 2005 or 06. Need to check the s/n.
At 240 hours (checked for actual today) I'm hopeful no scuffing of cyl walls has occurred. I also do not want to run the engine until the new filter gets to the parts store tomorrow so I can change the engine oil.
Here's what I noticed today when I ran it to remove front end loader and scraper box: Engine starts right away and emits a good amount of light grey smoke for 30 seconds or so, as it warms up exhaust becomes unnoticeable.
I had to run up the rpm's to about 1/2 at one point and I noticed a slight miss and a couple of coughs, a slight miss, I attribute to it not being fully warmed up, and hopefully not an indication of a larger issue.
Tomorrows work will be to drain 1/2 tank of fuel, change engine oil and filter, top off hydraulic oil (3 pt. now will not lift since I removed front loader and scraper and oil is just at the tip of stick. While in town I will be checking to see if an adapter cor the compression test can be ordered.
I bought this knowing it needed fuel work and the price reflected this. I actually got it for just a shade over the cost of the implements (unused auger and tiller, slightly used scraper and loader), so, hopefully issue won't make it a bad deal.
oh, I also have a manual on order, but not sure when it will show.
Blow by in not apparent when I remove the hose from breather to intake.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Removing the loader should not have any effect on the 3 point operation unless you need to shut off some bypass, or on some connect line in and line out of the loader control valve. (have to do that on mine or it will not pass the fluid on to the 3 point or the HST.) low is not good but being on the dip stick the 3 point should work.

If your not getting blow by then I would highly doubt it's a compression issue, but still could be a valve stem seal issue, but that will usually smoke all the time.

Compression testing will probably not give you any more info, but it never hurts to have all the information you can get.

Does the oil have a noticeable amount of fuel in it, or just the smell of fuel?

My bet is going to be contaminated fuel, either with water or gasoline, or just old and bad.

Have you fueled it since you got it?

Replace the filter even if you think it looks clean, and look for a second filter, some models have 2 of them.

 

[lakebota]

thank you for the suggestions. I'm beginning to think fuel contamination may be the culprit. Through the course of eliminating potential causes I plan to perform a complete service and replace of all filters and such. The fuel does have an off smell to it (compared to my fresh diesel in a fuel can).
I do not want to add more as with a half tank I will already have a lot to dispose. Drained oil last night and it was quite thin and about an inch over the "F" mark on the stick.
The machine is very clean and does not indicate abuse. I believe the owner either made a mistake with fuel cans, and gasoiline(?) is causing incomplete compustion that is going through the rings, or the seals in fuel pump or lift pump is allowing contamination through the seals.
I am waiting for a manual I ordered to arrive so I can check things lke valve lash (if required).
I'll continue to peck away and report back regularly. Today may be an off day, I'm suffering from flu shot effects today (and a rough night last night).

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm suffering from flu shot effects today (and a rough night last night).

Oh yuck! Yep put your feet up and veg out in front of the TV. Or close all the blinds/curtains and go sleep it off.

 

[lakebota]

I couldn't stand it and headed to the shop. I figured it would not be too difficult to remove the fuel tank to drain. Once everything was opened up I see I might have been able to drain the tank with everything in place as there are 5 lines going into it, one right into the bottom sump. This was a good opportunity to clean and will assist in changing filters, etc. Largest pita was the knobs that need to be removed in order to remove the floor piece.
For future reference, the mmm ht adj knob is removed by removing a nut that is located in the stepped cylinder while the 3pt hitch fall rate is held by an internal snap-ring that fits into the recess on the trans housing that recieves the knob/valve.
Now my parts list has increased as the fuel gauge sending unit has been weeping and besides two inline filters there is another can, likely a separator that I may replace. It took me about 3 hrs, I finished by lunch time and retreated (much more achy than I realized) ate and took an hour and a half nap. I'm a wuss when I'm not feeling well.
I'm kind of dead in the water now until my parts get here.
Hard to tell if there is contaminated fuel. I think once re-installed I'll run the pump to waste about a half gallon of new fuel to purge the pump and lines. I also think I'll not fill the crank-case with oil and leave the drain plug out to see if there is leakage of fuel into the crank case when I do.

 

[lakebota]

took a few days off for company in town. Back on the project today. I replaced checked fuel lines from pump rearward and all spring clips with worm gear hose clamps, two new inline fuel filters and oil filter. Put in fresh fuel and ran fuel pump to waste for a few minutes to flush lines.
How much fuel flow should I expect from the return line with the motor not running?
I then re-connected return line and started motor with same smoke and rough running.
I want to connect my compression tester, but lack the correct adapter. Anyone know the thread and pitch for the glo-plugs on this motor (d902)?
I do not have a metric pitch gauge.

 

[lakebota]

Latest on on-going saga.
I could not find compression test adapter and dealer would not order one for me said I could bring tractor in. No thanks. Center drilled an M8x1(pitch) bolt and tapped head to accept compression fitting.
I called the previous owner and asked him if he saved the old injector (to fab an adapter) and asked a few more questions whose anwsers lead me to believe there may be a bent rod. He tipped the tractor at some point and I'm guessing did not let it set after righting and probably bent a rod on a chamber full of oil.
As soon as I get my bro in laws compression gauge I'll be able to rule this issue out (but likely in).
Light grey smoke persists after start-up and I believe a notice a slight knock at higher (1/2 and up) rpm. I still do not want to run it much until I get thisss thing to quit smoking.
Basic premise is light smoke = unburned fuel and I'm now looking at insufficient compression.

 

[lakebota]

In case anyone finds this thread searching:
the smoking issue resolved itself while the tractor was down over winter for hst repairs. I ran fuel with powerserviced added into the system, pulled tank and cleared all lines between tank and engine.
I went on with hst repairs, reassembled and viola, no smoke/miss/cough. Just smooth running.
Culprit had to be either fuel contamination, or electrical connection. Don't know which.