BX2230 won’t turn over to start

[Griz]

I’m new to tractors, and have a weird one. Intermittently, my BX2230 won’t turn over. I turn the ignition switch on, then preheat for a few seconds, then go to start and it won’t crank. Turn it off and try again, still no joy. Here’s the weird parts:
1) When I hit the preheat for the glow plugs, the clicking of the fuel pump slows considerably. Seems to indicate a sharp drop in voltage.
2) The dash lights dim when I go to start, indicating all safety switches are working.
3) I can get it to start by adding additional juice via jumper cables.
4) Sometimes it goes through a “happy phase”, and I won’t have any trouble for a while.
5) I’ve had a couple times where it will kick over for a second, then stop.
6) Sometimes if I hold the key over to the start position for 2-4 seconds, it will kick in and turn over.

I’ve had it into the shop a couple times, and got a new starter, battery, and ignition switch. Each helped for a while (“happy phase”), then problem comes back.

It really seems like a faulty relay or electrical current leak, but I don’t know enough to figure out where. I’m planning to replace the glow plus next- maybe a short there somewhere?

Any other ideas?

 

[Bri-Guy-GA]

My first instinct would be the battery is on its way out. Take it out and have it tested.

 

[Griz]

My first instinct would be the battery is on its way out. Take it out and have it tested.

Yup, my first instinct as well. The shop put a new one in two years ago, I put a new one in this summer. Didn’t make a difference.

 

[GeoHorn]

It is NOT your glow plugs.

It is possibly your starter relay. This has been discussed on several different models recently and is what I discovered on my (different model Kubota) tractor. It was a real puzzle for awhile. I posted several times while troubleshooting..but the FIX was this:

Another No starter rotation thread

My M4700 is a pretty simple tractor...or so I thought... Only one safety switch activated by the range-lever (the forward-Reverse-Low-High selection lever) on this DT (manual transmission.). The neutral start safety switch is kind of troublesome to get to... and that was my suspicion because...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[GreensvilleJay]

my vote, bad battery (#3 is the GREAT clue....)

 

[Bri-Guy-GA]

Check all your grounds and power connection to the starter. Make sure they are all clean as your response seems to imply this situation has gone on through a couple of different batteries.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Check the basics. Your symptoms are typical of poor connections or a failed battery. Could be something else, too, but start with the basics.


Check the battery cables and connections, both ends. This does not mean "glance at the top of the battery and if there's no obvious corrosion you are good". It means TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN IT. And do not overlook the ground connection to the frame, and the hot connection to the starter. People often make that mistake. "Battery's good, must be something else." Nope, BOTH ends need to be good.

And while you are at it, very carefully inspect the cables. Again, both ends. Corrosion can wick up inside a cable and rot it from the inside out. It's not readily visible from the outside. Look at the exposed end of the cable. Do you see corrosion there? If so, the cable may be bad. One way to find out is to get rough with the cable. Twist it, push it, bend it. If it feels at all "crackly", replace it. "Oh, but if I get rough with it, I might break it!" Good! If it's a good cable you won't bother it. If it's borderline, you want to break it.

If that's all good, get your battery load tested. A battery can show the correct voltage but not be able to support the load of a starting engine.

 

[MuttCat]

Relay. Check connectors for loose wires....