Intermittent clicks when key in in preheat position, then on ignition, engine turns over 2-3 times and belches black smoke, then fast clicks and won't turn over. Different battery; same results. Solenoid fuse looks okay. Checked position of all 4 levers. Sitting on seat. Had been running fine. 511 hours. Any thoughts? Fuel pump? Solenoid?
BX2200 won't start
- Thread starter stevew
- Start date
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Is it spinning a normal speed?
Sounds like you need a "fresh" battery and/OR clean all the terminals bright and tight.
Sounds like you need a "fresh" battery and/OR clean all the terminals bright and tight.
Different battery may give you same results. If its same condition as previous battery. First check for three point control to make sure it is not all the way up,same for aux hydraulics-make sure they are centered. Had a similar situation with a bobcat, aux hydraulic was activated and nothing was connected. Deadheaded the hydraulics..would stall before it starts.
Other battery was running car. Not sure the BX has the other control mentioned (aux hydraulics). I checked the PTO (mid only), the mower control (off), the hydraulic lift (down) and the transmission positions (neutral).
85Hokie
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Based on the "clicks" - either you do not have enough amperage to the starter - or the contacts are shot in the solenoid.
Have you tried to jump the tractor to see if there is any difference?
Yes, I tried jumping it from a running car to the battery terminals. I'll try to find the solenoid and check its contacts, but why would it turn over initially if those contacts were bad (and then stop followed by the fast clicking sound)?
I'd suggest to remove and clean both battery cables at the battery and the end where it attaches to the tractor. Make sure the area is clean of paint, rust, grease and oil. Then be sure connections are tight.
Have you replaced the battery in the tractor with one from a running car or are you jumping the original battery with one in a running car. If you leave the old bad battery in the tractor and jump it from the car, it will very likely not work. Put a fresh battery in the tractor and that should solve your problem. You have to have the old battery out of the equation.
The starting issues on my BX2200 were greatly improved by running a longer cable from the negative post to ground on a bolt on the engine (the engine lifting bolt bracket near the valve cover).
You can check if this is the problem by running a jumper cable from the battery negative to a bare place on the engine. Remove the negative clamp from the battery before trying this experiment just in case there is corrosion there.
The engine won't turn over at all if it is safety switch issue. So that doesn't sound like the problem.
A car battery (jumped) won't work if there is not a good ground on the tractor. Besides the car should be running at a fairly high RPM to generate enough oomph.
All this is based on the tractor's battery being in good shape and charged.
Now, the fast clicks may indicate that the fuel pump is not getting fuel. Have you replaced the two fuel filters? They are often a problem. But that wouldn't explain the tractor not turning over. There may be multiple problems.
The stop solenoid cuts off fuel to the ejectors so you'd likely not get the fast clicking due to an issue there.
You can check if this is the problem by running a jumper cable from the battery negative to a bare place on the engine. Remove the negative clamp from the battery before trying this experiment just in case there is corrosion there.
The engine won't turn over at all if it is safety switch issue. So that doesn't sound like the problem.
A car battery (jumped) won't work if there is not a good ground on the tractor. Besides the car should be running at a fairly high RPM to generate enough oomph.
All this is based on the tractor's battery being in good shape and charged.
Now, the fast clicks may indicate that the fuel pump is not getting fuel. Have you replaced the two fuel filters? They are often a problem. But that wouldn't explain the tractor not turning over. There may be multiple problems.
The stop solenoid cuts off fuel to the ejectors so you'd likely not get the fast clicking due to an issue there.
I jumped it from a running car to the battery terminals with the tractor wires still attached. So if I take the wires off the battery terminals and jump it directly to them that woulds take the old battery out of the equation without bothering to get a new one yet, no? I can try that this w/e (I'm not colocated with the tractor.)
I have not changed the fuel filters, but it was working fine before. Wouldn't any performance deterioration due to clogged filters be gradual and not all of a sudden?
Ditto with poor connections from the battery on the tractor side. They didn't all of a sudden get dirty or loose or whatever?
Will report back after the w/e when I should have a chance to work on it a bit.
Steve, you are exactly correct, "Wouldn't any performance deterioration due to clogged filters be gradual and not all of a sudden?
Ditto with poor connections from the battery on the tractor side. They didn't all of a sudden get dirty or loose or whatever?"
The electrical connections, batteries, etc. deteriorate slowly, and at some point there is not enough energy going through them to activate the system. At that time you have a failure just like you're experiencing.
Ditto with poor connections from the battery on the tractor side. They didn't all of a sudden get dirty or loose or whatever?"
The electrical connections, batteries, etc. deteriorate slowly, and at some point there is not enough energy going through them to activate the system. At that time you have a failure just like you're experiencing.
Take the battery out of the car and put it in the tractor. Apparently there is to much line loss in jumper cables to start the tractor with the battery cables disconnected from the tractor battery. This isn't guess work. I have had it happen a couple of times on similar machines. I jumped the battery every way know to man with the negative results you describe. I replaced the tractor battery and everything went back to work immediately.
Rentthis is right on the money,even my two cylinder wouldnt crank up with just booster cables. Good,heavy duty cables and dual batteries in my truck. Popped in a known good battery and its just peachy!!
Renthis and tooljunkie were correct! The dealership popped in a new battery and she started right up. I haven't talked to the mechanic yet, but I can only assume that either my old jumpers were shot or, as you said, their wires weren't heavy enough to feed the necessary amps to crank the 3 cyls. I did take the cables off the old battery straight to the SUV battery with engine running, but of course that didn't work either. Thanks, guys, for the help. What a great resource this is!
Grouse Feathers
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Even with good cables, you often don't get a good connection by just clamping the cables on the posts or connectors. Wiggle all the jumper clamps so the teeth on the jaws can dig through any surface corrosion to good metal. This is just as important as making sure the battery posts and cable connectors are clean.