BX1850 Drive shaft

[ibgolfr]

This might sound silly--but I ask anyway. Let us say you need to replace the fan on the little machine, the one almost impossible to get to. Or maybe the seal is leaking a little and you simply want to replace it on the inboard side of the transmission.

This is the question I have pondered all day.

What if we cut the drive shaft in half, well maybe not exactly half, just in two pieces. Removing the bolts from the motor end of the shaft it seems as though the front portion would simply fall straight out, leaving the rear section coupled to the transmission. If one can then reach the bolt in the rear coupling, just in front of the fan--obviously we cranked the shaft over so the bolt is facing down--it seems the rear portion of the now cut drive shaft should be removable by sliding it rearward.

Since I have never done this, nor removed a drive shaft at all, is this possible in the opinion of those who have.

Continuing and assuming that cutting the shaft in half will allow its removal to begin with, we turn to repairing the shaft. My thinking lead me to two ideas. First. Search part houses for a small universal joint that could be incorporated into the cut shaft so it can be made whole. Second. Turn the cut ends of the shaft and weld plates to each end, attached with bolts--thus making the shaft whole.

If this process is feasible it certainly would be less expensive that having to pay to have the transmission completely removed just to service a broken plastic fan or new oil seal.

What do you think...

Eric
ibgolfr@gmail.com

 

[Shadow]

One word: balance. No way you're going to get that shaft balanced if you weld it, or put a universal in there. Instead of removing the trans, just take the motor free and get it off of it's mounts to remove the shaft.

 

[Grouse Feathers]

If this process is feasible it certainly would be less expensive that having to pay to have the transmission completely removed just to service a broken plastic fan or new oil seal.

What do you think...

Eric
ibgolfr@gmail.com

Some type of coupling might work with proper balancing, but a universal joint will not work. A universal joint needs at least some angle between the shafts. If the angle is zero, the rollers don't move and roller bearing races will be damaged along the line of contact between the rollers and races. Providing more protection for the fan will be a lot cheaper than either installing a coupling or replacing the fan.

 

[ibgolfr]

First I would like to thank Shadow and Grouse Feathers for their input into my idea. Both bring up great points. I did not know that a universal joint needed and angle to work correctly...I will store that away.

Both bring up the question of BALANCE and yes I am sure that is a concern. However, exactly how critical is it in a shaft which does not turn at high speed like on-road vehicles and shaft driven machinery. I would think one could get the straightness back in alignment pretty close with some attention to detail and careful machine (lathe) work say. I might be wrong.

Also, Shadow mentioned just lifting the motor off its mounts and removing the shaft that way. HUM? In reading several horror stories regarding replacing a broken fan blade and the work effort and expense, if it is just a matter of loosing the mounts and lifting the motor--how high I don't know--why is there so much frustration expressed. I guess reading such reports caused me to begin thinking of an alternative.

Now, I don't have a broken fan blade and hope I never have one. However, I do have a slight fluid leak coming from what I suspect is the oil seal on the input shaft of the transmission. Cleaning and looking at the area, it appear that the fluid is coming from that area and running down the sides and face of the cover.

I did have a slight leak at the seal of the PTO mid-shaft. I believe I have solved this one, at least I haven't seen fluid below the seal since I did a repair there. I used brake cleaner and air to wash and dry the area of the seal face surface. Then I applied Rust-Oleum "Leak Seal" clear spray and left it dry. Checking i did not see any evidence of leakage and applied a second heavier coat. I have not run the tractor yet and will have to see if it holds--keeping my fingers crossed.

This Forum is invaluable and the members knowledge and experiences are critical to keeping Me safe from my self.

Eric

 

[cerlawson]

Isn't there a replacement fan in two parts? Add a hose clamp an its done.

 

[Wbk]

It's not big a deal to replace the HST fan, it just takes a little time and patience. Drive the unit on a ramp if you have one or put it on blocks, remove the seat, unbolt the floor board then go under and remove the drive shaft. Once you get into it you'll find that it's fairly simple. If you try the other methods you mentioned your going to have far more problems than you bargained for, don't forget the shaft turns at engine RPM. The shaft comes out the top. Hope this helps Barry

 

[ibgolfr]

Barry, thanks for that information. Someone had said you could get to the shaft by removing the floorboard but did not add removing the seat to boot. I looked under the seat before i put this question up for discussion and found what appears to be a dust cover under it and after looking at it did not see an easy way of removing it--want to add anything about that.

Once you have the bolt removed from the rear coupler which goes through the fan and onto the spline--can the coupler be moved enough to clear the spline completely. Removing the motor attaching bolts would allow the shaft to be free at that end, but given the one piece design of the shaft, if the coupler does not completely clear the spline how can it be lifted out through the floorboard.

I am not changing a broken fan--thankfully. I have a fluid leak and I am quite certain it is coming from the transmission spline oil seal. Not a really big thing maybe but I hate spots on the shop floor.

As to the previous commentary--is there a two piece fan being marketed...I had read on this wonderful site that someone had tried doing what was related but did not hear that he had been completely successful.

Thanks

Eric

 

[skeets]

Go to YUOTUBE and look up Paul Short, aka Wildfire on here when he sneaks in,, He has some really super vidios on the BX and one for replacing the fan,, like said ,some time a few tools and some patience. If your half way goo you can probably do it in a Sunday afternoon more or less

https://youtu.be/jX5EncUkSQo?t=1

 

[lugbolt]

I can do them in 60 minutes tops. Pull the engine, it's a lot easier and it's the correct way to do it. The engine comes off really easy. 4 nuts, a few hoses, clamps, drain the water and you're ready.

Or cut it in half, then find a sleeve, weld it. But keep in mind the speed of the shaft. About 3500 RPM. It's not very large in diameter which works in your favor, but if it's even the least bit out of alignment, it'll vibrate your teeth out and if you're lucky it won't break your welded collar and sling part of a drive shaft through the floorboard, which is obviously right below where you don't want loose parts to be flinging around. A big truck's drive shaft turns under 2000 RPM most of the time.

I did not know that U-joints needed angle to work properly, either. News to me. They are inefficient by design, as they accelerate and decelerate and this phenomenon occurs more as the angle between the 2 shafts increases. I found the following video interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4P75ZQvpws