Bx1800 will turnover won't fireup and run

[Dave_eng]

Not all diesel engines are created equal and manufacturers wouldn't put them on if not needed. The BX series engine always have power to the glowplugs when cranking over and I know y BX23s starts better with 2-3 seconds of preheat.
I stored a Freightliner semi here for 3-4 years, would start it up for driver if he called. It always started yet did NOT have any glowplugs,even in dead of winter,and I never ever used ether.

This is a FYI
A Freightliner engine intake preheater, also known as an air intake heater or grid heater, is a device that heats the air entering the engine to help it start and improve drivability in cold weather:

• How it works
  The heater is powered by the vehicle battery and is located near the top of the intake manifold. The engine control module controls the electrical supply to the heater elements using two air heater relays.
• 
  
  

Dave

 

[GreensvilleJay]

this one was 40+ years old. My forklift had an 'intake heater', needed 2nd battery for it ! used ether instead.
If there was a heater it must have been 'automatic', as all I ever did was get in, turn key, engine always started. he hauled an old style 6 car trailer.made a great storage rack for 6 CJ-7s for 3 years....

 

[lugbolt]

if you have low compression and valve clearance is ok, you could do a leakdown test to verify where the leakage is going, or you can pull the head and start looking. I find it just about as easy to pull the head, especially if you don't have a leakdown tester available.

compression pressure should be up around 450-500 psi on these as I recall. The newer 80 series tractors are closer to 600 psi or a little more, going off of memory.

all 3 are low compression, with one of them just about dead.

Could be a lot of things but if the engine wasn't burning any oil before, I'd look closely for bent rods. Possibly head gasket and/or crack head but rods are a big deal on these little things. All it takes is one little spritz of starting fluid and the rods are bent, and/or pistons broken.

 

[bxwoody]

Here is a link to my tractor turning over. Preheated with heat gun in intake. Compression is in limit on two cylinders. No oil use or smoke, lack of power before this hard to start then not running at all. the link to video. https://youtu.be/u9rdjFdtb0g

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's not getting fuel.
Either you need to bleed the fuel system better or you are not getting fuel to the injectors.
If it ran before this event then it will run, you just need to find why it's not getting fuel.

FYI: That's not black smoke

 

[lugbolt]

yeah that thing ain't got enough compression to run based on the video.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

yeah that thing ain't got enough compression to run based on the video.

It does sound off.
But the compression numbers say it should.

 

[InTheWoods]

Looks like grey/white 'smoke' - aka - vaporized fuel.

In that case, it IS getting fuel.

 

[InTheWoods]

...lack of power before this hard to start then not running at all...

How long have you owned it - what's the prior history?

 

[bxwoody]

How long have you owned it - what's the prior history?

since new 2000. It has 1879hrs. Changed oil every year. When taking line off top of injector very very small amount fuel when tuning over all 3 lines. Have fuel to pump. I ordered new injectors and will remove pump and have rebuilt or replaced.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

since new 2000. It has 1879hrs. Changed oil every year. When taking line off top of injector very very small amount fuel when tuning over all 3 lines. Have fuel to pump. I ordered new injectors and will remove pump and have rebuilt or replaced.

WOOW BOSS.

Do a couple really easy tests before you fire the parts cannon:
Take all three lines off the injectors and injection pump, and remove all three injectors.
Now set the throttle to high, and watching the injection pump crank it.
Are you getting three fountains 2" to 3" high?

If your not, your either are not getting fuel to injection pump or yes you have an injection pump issue.
Post back and we can go further on that.

If you are getting good fountains then Injection pump is fine and it's getting fuel.

Now hook up one injection line off to the side (doesn't matter which port) now attach a injector to that line loosely, you will need to crank this you purge that line then snug it up.
DO NOT put any body parts under the injector, use a piece of cardboard or paper to see the jet stream.
Your looking for a fine mist fog with no drips.
Do this for all three, they should all have the same spray pattern.
If they all fog fine, put it back together as it should start and run.
When reinstalling make sure to use the sealing washer on them.

 

[lugbolt]

I don't know that I'd bother messing with injectors. Video says it's getting fuel based on the fuel "smoke" coming from the exhaust. Just pull the head and inspect. I don't even know that I'd bother with injectors at this point, it's obviously low on compression just pull the head and have a look.

I can't say if it's the case here but on the BX's, generally if I see them with low compression, it's usually due to overheat or damage due to starting fluid. Rarely a dusted engine. I even had to do my dad's old mower last year (G1800), damaged due to his use of starting fluid.

when you did the compression test did you disable the fuel system? I.E., remove injector lines and/or pull the shutoff lever to "off"? If not, that's why your compression readings are what they are and why it won't run. It don't have enough compression to run and the fuel in the cylinder will make it show higher than it is. Cylinders need to be DRY to run a compression test. Even then on these little bitty engines, they need a lot of PSI to start just because of how small they are. I don't even consider 400 psi to be allowable on these little things but that's just me. If it were in front of me with the numbers listed, I'd have had the head off within 30 minutes of a compression test.

 

[bxwoody]

I don't know that I'd bother messing with injectors. Video says it's getting fuel based on the fuel "smoke" coming from the exhaust. Just pull the head and inspect. I don't even know that I'd bother with injectors at this point, it's obviously low on compression just pull the head and have a look.

I can't say if it's the case here but on the BX's, generally if I see them with low compression, it's usually due to overheat or damage due to starting fluid. Rarely a dusted engine. I even had to do my dad's old mower last year (G1800), damaged due to his use of starting fluid.

when you did the compression test did you disable the fuel system? I.E., remove injector lines and/or pull the shutoff lever to "off"? If not, that's why your compression readings are what they are and why it won't run. It don't have enough compression to run and the fuel in the cylinder will make it show higher than it is. Cylinders need to be DRY to run a compression test. Even then on these little bitty engines, they need a lot of PSI to start just because of how small they are. I don't even consider 400 psi to be allowable on these little things but that's just me. If it were in front of me with the numbers listed, I'd have had the head off within 30 minutes of a compression test.

I got the new Injectors installed. Did the test to check injection pump, seamed fine. Had a hard time firing up,lot of smoke at first but ran fine. I started it up this morning, 42F in garage. It started right up very little smoke seams normal. When I ran it Yesterday the fan belt came off bad spot on belt. The water pump squeaks when turning fan by hand. I am going to replace water pump,Thermostate replace belt. Hope all will be well then. Did not pull head! Hope you learned something. I did! Thanks again to North Idaho Wolfman! His advice was the most help! You have to use wisdom to sift through the responses on a forum like this. Thanks to all that took the time to respond.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

You might as well replace the rad hoses 'while your at it'......That way you KNOW all of it IS good.....

 

[bxwoody]

You might as well replace the rad hoses 'while your at it'......That way you KNOW all of it IS good.....

That is a good suggestion, They are 25 years old.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

One problem with old rad hoses, like your 1/4 century old ones, is they'll microfracture (you can 't see) and 'fit fine' when you reinstall them.then days, weeks, a month later after several runs (hot-cold-hot...) they 'magically split apart' and if you're lucky only need to replace them ,unlucky engine over heats and $$$$ repair bill

 

[bxwoody]

Final update. Tractor starting normal, running good. Parts fired from parts Cannon include - new Denso fuel injectors ($350) New water pump, Thermostat, and fan belt.