I have a bx1800 and would like to install a grader blade for snow removal. I was wondering what size blade to buy. I would like to go with a 60" but is this going to be too much for the size of my tractor? Should I go with something smaller, maybe a 48"?
BX1800 grader blade sizing
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Woods used to make a 60" for small hp tractors, I have one. Its a RB60 which is limited for 19hp i think. Its a cat "0". Its well built, all I would expect from woods.
I use a 4 foot King Kutter behing my B6100 and mine pulls a 4 footer ok. The tractor walks sideways while pulling in a straight line if the snow is deep.
What about height? Do I have to be concerned about my tractor lifting the blade high enough? Or do I need to purchase a blade that is made for a subcompact? I just went to the local Rural King and it seems like finding a 48" blade might not be that easy. They did have several 60" blades.
Just dont start plowing the streets in your neighborhood and hit a manhole cover and bend it in half like I did!
I built a snow plow truck for my grocery store parking lot back in the early '90's. I started with a 40k mile '78 chevy K30 single wheel ton pickup. I then increased the front axle spring pack to compensate for the additional weight a 8' meyers plow added/ In the rear I swapped in a Dana 70HD (dually) rear end to complement the Dana 60 out front. The springs were from a dually as well but the overloads were a complete spring pack from a 3/4 tonHD, less the leaf w/spring eye. It was one awesome truck!! the proverbial "Pull a house off the foundation."
It worked great would push Hugh piles of snow. One winter, in one day , uncommon for west Ky, we got 14" of heavy snow. I pushed snow for 2 days around town for other folks too. couldnt make money if people couldnt get to the store.
Third day of that storm I decided to push back some of the melting snow piles to add parking spaces to my lot. I came to one med. sized pile eased up to it to push and i really didnt move any. i back up a few feet to hit it some to break it loose. It didn't move, but I knocked the whole frontend out from under the truck. the plow blade went up the diff made contact with the pile. The truck never was quite the same after I got it out of the shop.
Moral of the story; know what and where you are scraping to keep from tearing up equipment!
PS; I hired it done from then on. cost less to have done than what I spent in fuel. (almost)
It worked great would push Hugh piles of snow. One winter, in one day , uncommon for west Ky, we got 14" of heavy snow. I pushed snow for 2 days around town for other folks too. couldnt make money if people couldnt get to the store.
Third day of that storm I decided to push back some of the melting snow piles to add parking spaces to my lot. I came to one med. sized pile eased up to it to push and i really didnt move any. i back up a few feet to hit it some to break it loose. It didn't move, but I knocked the whole frontend out from under the truck. the plow blade went up the diff made contact with the pile. The truck never was quite the same after I got it out of the shop.
Moral of the story; know what and where you are scraping to keep from tearing up equipment!
PS; I hired it done from then on. cost less to have done than what I spent in fuel. (almost)
gpreuss
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
I have no idea what is available for the BX series, but my two cents says the diameter of the tire and the weight of the tractor are determining factors in what you can pull around. With a rear blade you are always pulling in the untouched snow. When the load on the blade gets too much, you are moving sideways, then stuck. The tractor cannot then easily climb back over the load of snow to get free. Often you cannot raise the blade high enough to clear the top of the pile, and you are really stuck.
So I tend to push backwards on the rear blade, and it always tries to dig down in too far. I have put a gauging wheel on the blade to keep it out of the gravel, whether I am pushing or pulling.
I'm using the L3200 with filled tires and chains all the way around, and a 6' Rhino blade. I can generally make a pass in each direction, then try to offset the blade a bit and move the birm farther over. After that, the tractor still goes a bit sideways. I often end up pushing backwards to knock the snow off the driveway.
So, your tractor can easily handle a 60" blade on dry ground. In snow it becomes a matter of traction and weight. If you are going to end up pushing a lot, it is much easier to do it running ahead than backing up. Then I do the job with the front loader. If you float the bucket with a slight upward angle, the loader works fine.
I tried building a blade for the loader of my old 185, and found the geometry all wrong for it. The attachment to the tractor is pretty high up, so the tractor lifts in front, and the blade digs down. Trying to feather it never seems to work. You have completely lost steering and control. I don't recommend it.
If there is a reasonable adjustable dozer blade for the BX, I'd look at it seriously. It could well be the best answer.
I'm not trying to be discouraging, but snow removal can be that way. A lot depends on the length of your drive, hills, etc. Mine is both long - about a thousand feet, and hilly. There are places where you don't want to slide off of it sideways.
So I tend to push backwards on the rear blade, and it always tries to dig down in too far. I have put a gauging wheel on the blade to keep it out of the gravel, whether I am pushing or pulling.
I'm using the L3200 with filled tires and chains all the way around, and a 6' Rhino blade. I can generally make a pass in each direction, then try to offset the blade a bit and move the birm farther over. After that, the tractor still goes a bit sideways. I often end up pushing backwards to knock the snow off the driveway.
So, your tractor can easily handle a 60" blade on dry ground. In snow it becomes a matter of traction and weight. If you are going to end up pushing a lot, it is much easier to do it running ahead than backing up. Then I do the job with the front loader. If you float the bucket with a slight upward angle, the loader works fine.
I tried building a blade for the loader of my old 185, and found the geometry all wrong for it. The attachment to the tractor is pretty high up, so the tractor lifts in front, and the blade digs down. Trying to feather it never seems to work. You have completely lost steering and control. I don't recommend it.
If there is a reasonable adjustable dozer blade for the BX, I'd look at it seriously. It could well be the best answer.
I'm not trying to be discouraging, but snow removal can be that way. A lot depends on the length of your drive, hills, etc. Mine is both long - about a thousand feet, and hilly. There are places where you don't want to slide off of it sideways.
gpreuss
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3200DT w/FEL, K650 Backhoe, 5' Rotary, 40" Howard Rotavator, 6' Rhino blade
I should add that I have a Cub Cadet zero-turn mower that I drop off the mower and put on chains and the blade - about 48" - and push snow around the house after I've had my way with the L3200. It does a terrific job cleaning things up. I'm sure anything for the Kubota is going to be heavier duty and better designed.