BX Wont crank

[Don Brown]

This has probably been addressed before, but I haven't been able to locate a thread on it. I have a BX1880, was using it two weeks ago to mow, Was running fine when I parked it in my garage. Last week I went to start it and no joy. The starter (solenoid) only clicks. Troubleshooting, with multimeter connected to the battery, battery reads 12.4V with switch OFF. ignition to ON the battery reads the same. Ignition to GLOW Battery read 12.0V. Turn ignition to START battery goes to 6V or lower, it will stay this way even after the ignition switch is released, after about five - seven seconds when a solenoid (or a relay) releases and the voltage returns t 12.8 V. I relace the battery with one from my pickup, same results. According to the wiring diagram I have, it appears there are two interlocks which I have bypassed (direct wire to starter) to no avail. I replaced the starter with the same results. Less $150.00 bucks. I have read some about the glow plugs causing this issue I may order the kit to bypass but haven't yet.

Does anyone have any ideas that I probably missed? Thanks in advance.

 

[85Hokie]

First thing first - voltage is a terribly bad indicator of starting - you could have 12.6+ volts DC on a wire the size of a human hair. While a fully charged battery will read 12.6 = the flow of electrons (amps) is where the party gets started.

So - you bypassed the key - little lug to big lug and you still have zero?

So when you had the old starter out - did you bench test it? Lay in on the bench (in a vise) and throw 12 volts to it? This will tell you if the starter is at fault.

Get a bf wrench and see if the engine will move at all - I doubt this is the problem but weirder things have happened.

 

[Russell King]

Okay just to be clear the starter is not spinning the engine and therefore the engine does not run.
Everything was fine last time it was used but it has been unused one week before the trouble and now going on more time.
Battery was replaced with a known good battery from a truck. (Assuming this battery starts at least six cylinder gas engine which should be good for BX1880. Battery installed in tractor (replacing the existing battery)

Starter replaced (with what type of starter?)

I assumed that dash lights and electrical power seems to be working.

I would clean all four battery cable ends especially the ground point on the tractor frame.

If you wanted to just replace the cables and clean the battery posts and frame point that would also eliminate any chance the cables are internally failing.

If it still doesn’t crank but then suspect something is wrong with wiring or safety switches. But you will have to post back with details on how the tractor acts after you do the above troubleshooting steps.

 

[armylifer]

Check the position of the mower engagement lever. The engine will not crank if the mower engagement or the PTO lever is even slightly moved toward the engage position. If that does not work, then check the seat presence switch to see if it is working.

 

[Sidekick]

Did you leave the PTO engaged last use?

 

[jaxs]

This has probably been addressed before, but I haven't been able to locate a thread on it. I have a BX1880, was using it two weeks ago to mow, Was running fine when I parked it in my garage. Last week I went to start it and no joy. The starter (solenoid) only clicks. Troubleshooting, with multimeter connected to the battery, battery reads 12.4V with switch OFF. ignition to ON the battery reads the same. Ignition to GLOW Battery read 12.0V. Turn ignition to START battery goes to 6V or lower, it will stay this way even after the ignition switch is released, after about five - seven seconds when a solenoid (or a relay) releases and the voltage returns t 12.8 V. I relace the battery with one from my pickup, same results. According to the wiring diagram I have, it appears there are two interlocks which I have bypassed (direct wire to starter) to no avail. I replaced the starter with the same results. Less $150.00 bucks. I have read some about the glow plugs causing this issue I may order the kit to bypass but haven't yet.

Does anyone have any ideas that I probably missed? Thanks in advance.

I have an idea you missed plenty if you searched OTT for terms such as BATTERY,VOLTS,CRANK,START,BOOST,CLICK, no start or anything close and didn't get more hits than you could read in 3 hours.

This question has been asked more times than every other subject combined.

 

[leveraddict]

Check the connector at the alternator? My BX did the same the connector was loose. I think Greensville had it happen also.

 

[skeets]

Look for the dumb stuff first, check the PTO lever sometimes if you bump it, the switch will not make up, or maybe you have forgotten to turn the PTO off when you parked her. This is a very common problem on the BX , dont ask how I know this

 

[armylifer]

So far, it looks like another one question and gone scenario. I hope that I am wrong.

 

[Don Brown]

So far, it looks like another one question and gone scenario. I hope that I am wrong.

Still here, still troubleshooting

 

[GreensvilleJay]

nice BX1880 and BX23S are cousins and just confirmed 'starter ' circuits are the same.

OK, simple test #1 ....
1) remove small tab connector from starter motor.
2) connect meter -ve to ground
3) connect meter +ve to connector in #1
4) turn key to 'start'

You should see +12. If not then odds are PTO lever has opened that switch OR fwd/rev pedal isn't 'neutral'.
according to the diagram... +12 -->key-->neutral sw--> HST sw-->starter 'tab'.

simple test #2..
jumper big stud of starter from battery to little 'tab'.
that'll spin the starter.

 

[Don Brown]

nice BX1880 and BX23S are cousins and just confirmed 'starter ' circuits are the same.

OK, simple test #1 ....
1) remove small tab connector from starter motor.
2) connect meter -ve to ground
3) connect meter +ve to connector in #1
4) turn key to 'start'

You should see +12. If not then odds are PTO lever has opened that switch OR fwd/rev pedal isn't 'neutral'.
according to the diagram... +12 -->key-->neutral sw--> HST sw-->starter 'tab'.

simple test #2..
jumper big stud of starter from battery to little 'tab'.
that'll spin the starter.

Thanks greenvillejay, I check this n the AM when I and the temperature are cooler!

 

[armylifer]

Still here, still troubleshooting

Now that I have been proven wrong, I really am glad.

Did you check the seat presence switch and the PTO positions? Try turning the the key to the start position and try moving the PTO levers and see if the starter engages. It really sounds to me like one of the safety switches is the culprit.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

The seat switch not needed for starting. Only PTO and f-r pedal.

 

[85Hokie]

Ok,

THIS was in your first post and I illuded to it in my first post - DID you jump the starter ?

your quote:

" I have bypassed (direct wire to starter) to no avail."

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, two ways to 'jump starter'

1) big battery side stud to big starter side stud. This puts battery to actual starter...

2) big battery stud to little tab. Puts 12V to starter solenoid.

 

[85Hokie]

hmm, two ways to 'jump starter'

1) big battery side stud to big starter side stud. This puts battery to actual starter...

2) big battery stud to little tab. Puts 12V to starter solenoid.

I am assuming he meant #1, hell I will take #2 too .......... but you know how assumptions go!

 

[Lug66]

Have you tried bypassing (jumper cable) the negative/ground cable or clean the frame/block side where it attaches? You stated you’re losing 6 volts.

 

[Don Brown]

Ok,

THIS was in your first post and I illuded to it in my first post - DID you jump the starter ?

your quote:

" I have bypassed (direct wire to starter) to no avail."

Yes used a jumper cable straight from positive post to the big lug ( He didn't complain) and the starter still didn't work,

 

[DustyRusty]

Bad gound.