Well I couldnt figure out what was making a rattling sound on the front end of the BX I opened the hood and the grill and side panels kind of just sat there no hooked to anything. Hummmm ???? The ears that the thumb screws go through to hold it in place are gonzo, so aint nuttin holding it in pace other than the hood which I think is the only thing that kept it from falling off... So I ask, and I an sure others have had the same issue with the plastic front end. What did you do to fix it, I called the stealer,, and as soon as my nuts come back down I might think about buying one, till them it is open motor,, any body ????
BX guys
- Thread starter skeets
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armylifer
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
I had the same problem with the 'ears' breaking so I just removed the plastic cowling altogether. I have been running it that way for several years now.
RCW
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Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Skeets- had a few buddies here same happen on their BX. Mine’s okay so far as of yesterday.
Couple pulled the cowling off like @armylifer. Couple just let it rattle around in there with broken tabs.
One or more talked about trying to fix with epoxy because they had the broken pieces. Don’t recall anything about the success of the fix.
Couple pulled the cowling off like @armylifer. Couple just let it rattle around in there with broken tabs.
One or more talked about trying to fix with epoxy because they had the broken pieces. Don’t recall anything about the success of the fix.
I don't know if it's similar, but my mower engine cover lifts up. Over time, it lost the the little vibration dampeners. So, I put weatherstripping between the metal and plastic. It's worked fine for a few years.
There was enough plastic of the cowl left on my old one that I used 1.5" wide fender washers under the thumb screw. It reached enough of the plastic cowl to hold it down. I've since replaced the whole cowl with a shiny new one.
I too have the plastic hood arrangement. Here's several shots of a fix for the moment, as I'd like to keep intact helping to keep heavy snows out. Others may wish to visit the hardware store pickup a small roll of metal strapping. The holes are correct size for the knobs to pass through. Myself you can see lost a knob at some point, using a bolt for now with correct thread to fit the factory welded nut on the underside. At the sides I just used self-tapping sheetmetal screws with hex heads passed through the straps there as well. The other shot of top of hood just about where the locking mech / latch point is the metal frame that passes along the length of the hood (from latch to headlight areas) the plastic also broke holding the metal at the latch end. I drilled a hole thru that metal along with the plastic & bolted the two together. The plastic has already begun to spider been several yrs. since that was first repaired. Anyways, if you've run into that issue as well. May wish to give that a try too. Eventually I'll probably add a thin plate covering the spidering and self-tap the plate / hood as one. Surely a nice sheetmetal hood would have been a better design along with a metal fender arrangement. Anyways, hopefully may provide some repair ideas / inspirations fitting your own needs.
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RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
If my memory serves, I added a flat washer to each side. Don’t recall if the threaded knobs are OEM or my addition. Was probably 10 years ago.
Like someone said, if the tab(s) are broken a fender washer might do the trick.
Like someone said, if the tab(s) are broken a fender washer might do the trick.
Well, being such a nice day (warm 70s), &, talk of BX & repairs, caused me to go back out, cut me a couple pc's of tin from old roofing leftovers, no real measurement to speak of. Shaped & cut the 1 pc on the underside around the metal work for the hood latch / stiffener, while the exterior just a square. Nothing fancy, should get the job done nicely, perhaps, preventing excessive flexing, causing the plastic to crack / spiderweb further.
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I had looked into a new hood & side panels from several Northeast "stealers". I want to say last spring. Also looked into new plastic fenders as they're cracked everywhere. I recall at the time they quoted me $2300 for the hood & side panels, while the rear fenders $2500. I haven't given up the notion of new plastic, though, not in any rush at those prices.