BX Auxiliary Hydraulics

[gmtinker]

I'm thinking about building a 3-pt mounted log splitter, based on scaled-down plans for the one my dad made for his "Green Tractor" Model 2120 when I was a kid on the farm. I have access to a welder at work and know I could build quite a strong one for a fraction of the cost of a commercial model.

I need to tap into the hydraulics to make it work. My BX1850 has the loader installed. Can a guy just use snap-couple fittings to tee into a couple of the feeder lines to the loader and run them to quick-couplers at the rear? Theoretically, if the loader is not being used and the tractor is not moving, there should be at least one pressure and one return that would be available, no? The splitter would have its own valving, it would just need pressure and return.

The local dealer is telling me I need a $400 auxiliary hydraulic kit. This seems odd as the picture on the front of my owner's manual says "Aux hydralics shown," but all it shows is the 4 quick connectors for the loader.

Any ideas?

 

[Michael]

I hate to tell you but you should get the auxiliary hydraulic kit from Kubota. The FEL hookup only work the hydraulics when you move the control lever of your joystick. The joystick controls what the FEL does and only when you move the joystick. So how would your splitter work unless you place the wood on the splitter then step over to the side of the tractor and reach over and move the joystick, plus you end up disabling your FEL to operate the splitter.

It would make far more sense to get the kit and then if you ever find a backhoe or other hydraulic power equipment like a backhoe and all you pay for is the equipment as you have the kit installed already.

 

[gmtinker]

Thanks Michael - you know, if I had just sat down and thought through it, I would have realized that those four fittings are _downstream_ of the loader control valve. DUH!

I guess I'll have to get the kit. On the bright side, full rear hydraulics adds a whole new avenue of different things I can do with this tractor . . . <evil mad scientist grin>

 

[Michael]

One thing I would do is check with Vic and see if he can get the price for the kit cheaper then your local dealer. Just remember that you will have to add in shipping for the kit but if he is quite a bit cheaper it might be the route to go.

One thing with full hydraulics is if you ever wanted to get a backhoe you do not have to pay for the kit as you already have it. A back hoe really is a excellent replacement for any shovel and they are great for picking up heavy loads.

 

[korydz]

gmtinker, I set up my BX2660 recently for the same. After asking a bunch of questions and doing the research, its really pretty simple. First, you don't need a $400 rear remote kit to do this. Actually, rear remotes are valved outputs and that is not what you want. Don't get me wrong, rear remotes would be great, but not for this.

All you need to do is identify your power beyond circuit and create a disconnectable loop in it. Once I figured it out, it took about 20 minutes and $50 worth of hydraulic lines. The best advice I can give you is to get a work shop manual for you BX. I ended up getting one after the fact. The correct ports are clearly shown in there.

I'm not an expert at this by any means and anyone feel free to correct me on this. This was one of those things that once I was done I stood back and said "that's it?". Its really pretty simple once you figure it out.

If I can be of any help short of typing out the whole process, let me know.

 

[korydz]

...oh yeah, I forgot to mention. If you decide that you might want to buy a splitter rather than make one, get a Split-fire. Canadian made, very reasonalbly priced, great people to deal with, and it works great. You can get one for about $1000 + freight.

 

[eserv]

Korydz suggested getting a service manual for your tractor. I agree with him if you're going to do your own service and repairs. They are not outragiously expensive like that other tractor! (Some dealers will tell you they are not available, just call another dealer!) That being said he is also right about hooking into the bx Hyd provided the impliment you are hooking to has it's own valve. This is how the backhoe operates on the bx23/24/25. If you remove the right rear wheel you can see the three lines that go to the loader valve. two of them connect to a small rectangular adapter on the side of the transmission, they are your pressure and return lines. remove either of them and you'll have hyd access. determine which one is return from the loader valve and use it. take the return oil from the loader valve to your splitter valve and return from the splitter valve into the rectangular adapter and you're all set! those two linesneed to be connected together again to operate your tractor without the splitter!!! avoid (as in do not!!!) run the tractor with them deadheaded!!
Ed

 

[eserv]

The rear port is pump and the forward is power beyond (return from loader valve) Either port will work equally well, system is protected by an internal relief valve.
Ed

 

[gmtinker]

Thanks guys, I've got a bit to work with now. I do have a WSM and parts manual - they are the electronic versions, but have the same info. Won't have time to get to it for a few weeks now, but definitely want to get something done about it this summer. When I do, I'll take pictures. As it is, I still need to build the tractor shed - at some point the car will want to be back in the Cover-All . . .

 

[korydz]

The parts manual will have good information on this. Good luck.