BX-23 Electrical Problem

[Big B]

Hi Guys,

I'm new here and I have a couple of problems.

This is the one that needs attention first.


I’ve got a 2005 model BX-23. Last week I cranked it and moved it and later went to crank it and it was totally dead.

Here is what I’ve found so far.
1. Fuse block dead
2. Ignition switch dead
3. Battery hot/can start by jumping the solenoid
Is there some kind of fusible link in the wiring harness before the fuse block and switch?

I’ve been jumping the solenoid and shutting it down with the manual fuel shut off on the fuel pump. I haven’t had time to try and track it down. I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with one of these?

Any knowledge of this problem or suggestions?

Thanks

 

[cmorningstar01]

Make sure your PTO is not engaged, Then check the safety switch on the clutch pedal.

 

[Big B]

The PTO is not engaged.

There is no power period past the main battery cable at the starter. No guages, no light, no nothing. Like I said the fuse block with 4 circuit is dead.

I rigged me up a push button starter switch and a rod on the manual kill on the injector pump so I can use it. I did a google and found where one person said they had the same problem and had to change the main wiring harness. That may very well be my problem.

I was just wondering if thier might be someone that had experienced this and fixed it with out the wiring harness change.

I have an exploded view of the whole tractor and part numbers, but it doesnt get really detailed on the circuits.

I may have to call the company I downloaded the parts list and see if the have a better view of the electrical system. They might know of the problems themselves since they sell parts and are a Kubota parts distributor.

 

[Big B]

Thanks Service Dept Vic,

No need to do that.The positive and negative cable are fine. I can turn the tractor over with my rigged push button solenoid jumper.

The problem appears to be the hot wire going from the starter terminal of the + cable back to an unused plug that branches off and goes into the main wiring harness. The plug where it branches is hot. I remember checking that when it first happened. I'm pretty sure I checked and I'll recheck the wire going back into the main harness. If I recall it was also hot.

I guess I'm just going to have to tear into the main wiring harness. I'll try and double check and report back.

 

[Bear Chief]

Thanks Service Dept Vic,

No need to do that.The positive and negative cable are fine. I can turn the tractor over with my rigged push button solenoid jumper.

The problem appears to be the hot wire going from the starter terminal of the + cable back to an unused plug that branches off and goes into the main wiring harness. The plug where it branches is hot. I remember checking that when it first happened. I'm pretty sure I checked and I'll recheck the wire going back into the main harness. If I recall it was also hot.

I guess I'm just going to have to tear into the main wiring harness. I'll try and double check and report back.

Did you ever get to the bottom of the problem? My BX2670 is doing something similar. Ran fine, shut it off, turn it on, then went dead - completely black, no power.

 

[leveraddict]

its the plug going to the starter! Push it together! Theres lots of play in the conector.

 

[Bear Chief]

its the plug going to the starter! Push it together! Theres lots of play in the conector.

Just found my 50A Slow Blow Fuse blew! Now what caused it to blow? Will be looking at the connections to the starter and solenoid. May be a short there.

 

[lugbolt]

the slow blow fuse blows when the amperage running through it exceeds it's rated current carrying capacity. So why would a 50A fuse blow? Look for chafed wires, particularly between the battery and starter and then between the starter and the small fuse box. I bet you'll find one that's chafed or bare somehwere making contact with the frame/engine/whatever. Also-look down at your loader frames where they are bolted to the tractor, specifically on the right hand side as you are sitting on the seat. I had seen a couple in the past where someone at the factory installed the loader frame over the top of the wiring, caused 50A slow blow to burn.

 

[Pau7220]

Pop the cap and look inside. Mine rotted internally from water intrusion. It had green crud near the terminals.

 

[i7win7]

Just found my 50A Slow Blow Fuse blew! Now what caused it to blow? Will be looking at the connections to the starter and solenoid. May be a short there.

Old TV repairman trick was to replace fuse with a light bulb. light bulb burns full power as long as a short is present. I would get an old fashion incandescent turn signal or side marker bulb and use that as your test fuse. If a hot wire is shorting out you will find it when light goes out.

Incandescent light bulb is a current limited fuse, probably 1 amp or less.