Bx 1800 draw bar
- Thread starter okieron
- Start date
My BX didn't have a true drawbar. It had a hole to drop a hitch pin into the lower PTO shield. This would be adequate for small carts, etc but not much more. A 3 point drawbar hitch did work well for me on the BX though, moving the attachment point back far enough to allow better turning.
Of course it is entirely up to the operator to respect the limits of common sense regarding the size and weight being towed and the type of terrain involved. Those 3 point devices need to be secured from lifting, as most tractor 3 point systems can "float" upward otherwise.
Of course it is entirely up to the operator to respect the limits of common sense regarding the size and weight being towed and the type of terrain involved. Those 3 point devices need to be secured from lifting, as most tractor 3 point systems can "float" upward otherwise.
I may be the ignorant one here, but I have never seen a box blade of that size that requires the use of a drawbar.
Box blades connect to 3pt hitch so they can be raised and lowered. The draw bar has no lift function.
This type of tow-behind box blade/scraper requires a draw bar.
First spread your lower 3 PT arms and measure how far apart they are - this can vary slightly depending on how the turnbuckles are adjusted. Your draw bar must be equal to or less than the max width.
Second measure the holes where the scraper will connect to the draw bar. Get a bar with the same hole spacing if possible otherwise you'll need to drill to fit. If you use only one hole the scraper can sway back and forth which is usually not optimal.
You can get a 3 PT. draw bar like this (minus the ball) - would be my first choice since you can use it for other tasks. Just make sure the height from the bottom to the top link pin is not too tall to connect your top link.
Or a 2 PT draw bar like this - the simplest and cheapest alternative. Again, measure the width of your lower links and buy a Cat 1 to match.
First spread your lower 3 PT arms and measure how far apart they are - this can vary slightly depending on how the turnbuckles are adjusted. Your draw bar must be equal to or less than the max width.
Second measure the holes where the scraper will connect to the draw bar. Get a bar with the same hole spacing if possible otherwise you'll need to drill to fit. If you use only one hole the scraper can sway back and forth which is usually not optimal.
You can get a 3 PT. draw bar like this (minus the ball) - would be my first choice since you can use it for other tasks. Just make sure the height from the bottom to the top link pin is not too tall to connect your top link.
Or a 2 PT draw bar like this - the simplest and cheapest alternative. Again, measure the width of your lower links and buy a Cat 1 to match.
PS - if your box blade / scraper is not like the one shown please take a picture of the one you have so we can help you better.
Maybe Im using wrong term on the picture above with the three point hitch the top link is what I need. So basically the top of 3 points
The top link should have come with the 3PH 'kit', but if 2nd hand, the previous owner may have never used it and his wife tossed it out !
Exactly what happened sort of. Previous owner left it on when it went to shop. Came back without it. I was hoping someone had the length. I mean it's just flat steel with some holes in it but I can't find anything specific. Some say 23 some say 20
No problem, glad your here asking questions.
Note: Adjusting the top link (screw it in or out) will change the angle of the box blade and how aggressive it digs in. It's a PITA but necessary. Good luck!
P.S. we love pictures - post some after your get things all hooked up and what you're doing with the box scraper.
Note: Adjusting the top link (screw it in or out) will change the angle of the box blade and how aggressive it digs in. It's a PITA but necessary. Good luck!
P.S. we love pictures - post some after your get things all hooked up and what you're doing with the box scraper.
A proper top link is two threaded sections joined by a threaded sleeve which allows the length of the top link to be adjusted significantly. You could purchase one at Tractor Supply.
For the most part, it seems like tractor supply has pretty decent quality for the price. I've been running that exact top link for several years with no issues, primarily with a grader blade.That's a lot less expensive AND no shipping costs!