Buying several Kubota tractors, building a Camp, and maintaining 69 acres of recreational/hunting property.

[BX25D Rookie]

I installed a pair of these "D" rings on the front of the BX 2370 today.
With a clevis on the rear of the machine, now it is ready to be hauled on a trailer.

IMG_20250310_143158629_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

 

[BX25D Rookie]

After installing the pair of front "D" rings yesterday, I drove the BX 2370 around the driveway.
Hot laps...
It's the first time there wasn't snow & ice everywhere.
I still have snow piles where I stacked it with the BX 25 FEL, otherwise it is melted away.
I am certain that I know now why the BX 2370 was traded in.

When fully hot, a decent dribble of hydraulic oil from above and forward of the right rear axle.
Only with the engine running, so the leak is likely on the pressure side.

Sigh, no room to see anything or do anything without a major tractor "explosion" so I did it today.
The steel hard lines on the right side of the transaxle going to the loader valve, the 90 degree elbows
and the fittings that screw into the block that bolts to the side of the transaxle.

I verified (could plainly see the leakage) before disassembling the hard lines tubing nuts.
Looks like less than $30 in parts, and while it's all apart, I will do several other items I noticed.
The owner is a perfectionist with machinery, and so is the mechanic.
The mechanic may do the work for a few beers.

IMG_20250311_151421284_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250311_151431604_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250311_151436536_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250311_151446326_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250311_151457240_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250311_151537132_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250311_151513759_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I am still waiting for the parts for repairing the leaks at the hydraulic hard lines/fittings/O-rings.
Arrival due the middle of next week.

It was almost 65 degrees Fahrenheit today, but I still have several piles of snow remaining in the yard from winter snow driveway clearing.

I noticed the 'Boots" on the propeller shaft couplings were in pretty poor condition.
The boot by the hydrostat cooling fan was pretty well destroyed.
The boot at the engine coupler was gone.

No better time to take the propeller shaft out of the tractor than when the sheet metal is already removed.
I took all the guts out of both couplings, cleaned, inspected for wear, re-greased and back together.
Around $11 for the pair of boots.
The couplings are similar to a automotive CV Joint, just somewhat more primitive guts, and with much
less available "angle" for power transmission. Simple works for me.

I have just about run out of tasks until hydraulic repair parts arrive.

This is the front coupler/boot.

IMG_20250314_150521997_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

This is the rear coupler/boot, right next to the hydrostat cooling fan.

IMG_20250314_150550182_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

If you operate a BX machine anyplace a stick could be jammed up into the fan blades from below the tractor, consider installing an aftermarket skid plate system. A stick in the wrong place will "clean" all of the fan blades right off the cooling fan hub. Replacing a broken hydrostat cooling fan with the rear fender and foot board sheet metal pieces in place isn't very much fun. It was much easier for me as all the sheet metal was already off due to other repairs in progress.
This tractor is just for mowing lawn, and a skid plate likely isn't needed.
Hopefully...
My other BX, has the Bro-Tek two piece skid plate system installed.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I have the BX 2370 reassembled.
It doesn't drip hydraulic fluid on the ground now. I pressure washed it before reassembly.
Several skinned knuckles and less than $100 in total for parts.
That job would have been a whopper of a repair bill at the Dealership.

Tomorrow, I'm tearing the front end tie rods apart. Weather/sun dried "boots/seals" are cracked.
Kubota no longer sells the inner/outer tie rod "boots/seals" as individual parts.
You'll need to purchase complete inner/outer tie rod ends for that $200 + repair.

botaproducts sells a complete inner/outer tie rod boots/seals kit which services both sides for $23.
They're plastic, not rubber.
We will see how that job goes in the morning.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

IMG_20250322_145706416_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250322_145718585_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

A really nice affordable aftermarket repair.
The tie rod ends boots/seals (both inner & outer) were quite deteriorated on the BX 2370 from setting outside in the sunlight. The boots/seals were just falling apart.
Once the boots/seals become opened up to dirt/dust/water intrusion, the inner and outer tie rod ends will be junk in a short period of time. New inner/outer tie rod ends are expensive from Kubota.

Its an 1.5 hour job at most. The outer tie rod ends need to be removed for the replacement parts install.
The inner tie rod ends stay attached to the power steering cylinder ram and don't require removal.
You can regrease the inner and outer tie rod ends before installing the new boots/seals. And I did.
While I did measure the exposed threading on each side before disassembly as per the supplied directions, when finished with the installation, I set the toe-in with a tape measure.

By adding one or two of the white polymer washers during the install, you get to set the proper "force"
for how tightly the inner boot/seal is pushed onto the inner tie rod end.
Then the E-ring is pushed into the factory groove in the threaded steel inner tie rod shaft.
Then reinstall the outer tie rod end with the new boot/seal.

Purchased from here: https://bxtractorparts.com/
This item: https://bxtractorparts.com/shop/ols/products/bx-inner-outer-tie-rod-boots
At present, the boots/seals kit shows out of stock.
But at $23.79 instead of hundreds of dollars for new factory tie rod ends from Kubota,
it was well worth it.

FYI, they also have a nice looking remote/relocation diesel fuel filter setup for sale.
They custom make the filter kit for each individual BX machine.
It also uses a factory Kubota filter in the bowl.
Here: https://bxtractorparts.com/shop/ols/products/bx-fuel-filter-relocation

 

[BX25D Rookie]

When I had the rear half of the BX 2370 apart for the hydraulic leakage repairs, I removed all the rear/middle Orange painted sheet metal. One of the bolts that holds the rear fender in place, also attaches the plastic part where the right side operator control handles protrude, and the right side grab handle. Turtle/Neutral/Rabbit lever, 2WD/4WD lever, and three point/deck Up/Down lever.

One of the steel nuts that is cast into the plastic when the plastic part is manufactured,
pulled out of the plastic part. I didn't even look up the replacement part price.

I cleaned it with brake cleaner, roughened up the plastic surface, cleaned up the steel nut and then reinserted the steel nut back into the plastic part. Then I mixed up some JB Weld two part epoxy, and epoxied the steel nut into the plastic part. I'm going to let the epoxy cure inside the house where it's nice and warm for multiple days before reinstalling the plastic part.

Five minutes with a flat file after the epoxy is fully cured, and that expensive plastic part that I'm not going to replace will be back on the BX 2370!

IMG_20250323_150353080_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250323_150403481 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

 

[BX25D Rookie]

Yesterday, I reinstalled the epoxied plastic part/grab handle back on the machine.
It is as solid as the opposite side. The tractor can be rocked side-to-side using the grab handle.

I ran the BX 2370 for over an hour at 3000 RPM. Also, retested all operational hydraulic/mechanical features/functions and everything works perfectly. No leaks of any kind!

I now have everything completed on the tractor that I wanted done before the start of mowing season.

We are having some colder weather now for four or so days, and it isn't warm enough outside for
brush type Rust-Oleum paint to dry properly.

With the tractor now complete, I am at the mercy of the weather for removing some minor surface rust from the upper side of the 60" deck and the BX grille guard, and then some Kubota Orange paint.
If I was forced to install the mid mount mower deck tomorrow, in about half an hour I could be mowing lawn.

It shouldn't take more than several days for the surface rust removal and painting, so with an expected
start for lawn mowing season of about May 1st, now I can relax a bit and wait for better weather.
I've got just about five weeks to get it all finished.

When the deck/grill guard painting is done, I will also take some rubbing compound and buff out the painted surfaces on the tractor. Hey, it's gotta look good too!

I got a Harbor Freight optical tachometer for my Birthday. I have wanted to check the accuracy
of the tachometer in the new instrument cluster for the BX 2370.
At 3200 RPM indicated with the instrument cluster tachometer, the hand held laser optical tachometer
read 3050 RPM.

I'm planning on draining the antifreeze/flushing cooling system/new antifreeze and most likely doing/checking the engine valves adjustment, but I want to get some operational hours first.

I thank my "Lucky Stars" that I have the knowledge, skills, tools, and facility for doing all of
these repairs/maintenance/upgrades myself here at home. Those that are locked into having
the dealership do those items pay dearly.

IMG_20250324_163806582_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250324_163536163_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250324_163446267_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250324_163515867_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I did something with tractors I have never done before.
I used a tractor to repair/maintain/upgrade another tractor.
With all of my wheeled machinery stored in my two barn building bays, there is no place for working on them. Something needs to go so there is space for working.

I took the completed mowing tractor and parked it down under the carport next to the trucks.
Then I took the loader/backhoe tractor, and with some nylon straps, lifted the 250 + pound
60" mower deck from the mowing tractor, and lifted it up onto a pair of steel sawhorses.

I have several days of wire brushing, sanding, and painting work that needs completion on the big deck.
Now the deck is inside, dry, up on steel sawhorses, and I won't need to crawl around on the ground
like an animal. It's also close to the toolbox and air compressor.

IMG_20250328_173204901_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250328_173221535_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I partially disassembled the deck yesterday.
Using a sharp gasket scraper, I scraped off all the loose rust and loose paint, and a few "rust bubbles" in the original paint. Them a big corded right angle grinder with a "knotted" wire wheel.
Roughening it up completely should give good paint adhesion.
Finally, a air powered right angle die grinder with sanding disks and Scotch Lok pads.
I wiped it down with Coleman stove juice (white gas) and then did a final degreasing with Brake Cleaner.

The first coat of brush style Rust-Oleum Kubota implement paint went on late yesterday afternoon.
The below photo is after the first coat, and pictured, is still somewhat wet.

I did a second coat this afternoon.
Tomorrow is forecast for 60 degrees Fahrenheit, so in another week, the paint should be fully cured.
If we get a nice sunny/warm day, I will get the deck outside in the sunshine.

All that remains now is reassemble/install the deck, and de-rust the front grille guard and get that painted and installed. The deck belt, blades, bearings, and deck gearbox did not require any attention.
The selling dealership allegedly drained/refilled the deck gearbox with new 90 wt. gear lube.
I will pull the fill plug and check it before use, just to be certain.
I going to replace all four of the plastic deck wheels while it is apart.

IMG_20250329_183514512_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I made a significant infrastructure investment for the recreational property.
I purchased a Cuddeback (brand) Cuddelink (model) trail camera system yesterday.
The trail cameras generate a private Wi-Fi network, and transmit full resolution photos
from the furthest away camera, to the next furthest away camera, and continuing up
the "daisy chain" of trail cameras, until it reaches the "home" camera which isn't really a camera
at all. It isn't equipped with a lens, can't take photos, and is simply a collection point for all
the photos taken "downstream" by all the outdoors "remote" cameras.

In my case, the "home" camera will be inside the cabin, and powered by 120 vac.
If a cell phone plan is purchased for the "home" camera, it can text or email reduced resolution thumbnail photos to multiple phone numbers and/or email addresses.
Minimum monthly cost is $10, I don't recall the number of sent photos limit. 1000?
Of course, you can purchase a unlimited photo count plan for more monthly cash.

If you don't pay for a cell phone plan, all full resolution photos taken by all of the outdoors
"remote" cameras are collected on the large SD card inside the "home" camera.
I can swap out the SD card in the "home" camera while inside the cabin, without walking
in the woods and distributing human scent all over the property.
I'm routinely at the cabin doing work/projects and mowing, and some bush hogging.

The Cuddeback cameras all take "D" batteries, unlike most trail cameras which use "AA" batteries.
More milliamp/hours, longer camera run times, before replacement batteries are needed.
The "remote" cameras can also be equipped with large external battery packs, and solar chargers
for unlimited camera run times without human intervention out in the woods.

The "remote" camera adjustments/settings can also be changed remotely without going into the woods.The private Wi-Fi is bi-directional, so all outdoors "remote"camera settings can be adjusted/changed from inside the cabin using a laptop computer. Actually, you can adjust outdoors "remote" camera adjustments/settings from anywhere in the world, as long as you have Internet.
We have fiber optic Internet at the cabin, and a Verizon provided network extender, which when connected to broadband, generates a Verizon cell phone signal with 100 or so yards radius of the cabin.

One of the purchased "remote" cameras will likely be set up to view the cabin and the property gate.
That leaves five "remote" cameras for the woods/hunting.
I purchased six "remote" cameras in total, and one "home" camera.
At $150 per camera, that's what this year's budget can withstand.
The Cuddelink system will support up to 23 "remote" cameras, perhaps some more next year.

Google Cuddeback/Cuddelink trail cameras for more technical information.
It's a really cool technology advancement for hunters!

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I now have the mower deck refurbished and reinstalled.
New plastic deck wheels also, and they have grease fittings!
I painted the used front grill guard that I acquired.
When the paint is dry, the grill guard will get bolted on.
That Kubota Orange paint is a really good color match for brush applied tractor paint.
It's an oil based Rust-Oleum tractor implement paint product, available in quart cans at Lowe's stores.

I have ordered two of the safety decals/stickers for the deck.
The original decals/stickers were casualties in the repainting process.
I did successfully remove the mower deck Model number/Serial number tag/sticker intact.
Any recommendations for reattaching that tag/sticker?

Other than factory new replacement plastic parts, does anybody have any suggestions for getting
some "shine" back in/on sun faded/weathered plastic parts, such as the steering wheel, deck discharge chute, mower deck pulley/belt covers?
Something that isn't wet or oily that will cause dust/dirt/grass clippings to stick?

I'm pretty pleased the way the project turned out!

IMG_20250402_150749599_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250402_150855266_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250402_150934202 by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250402_150952831_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

 

[biketopia]

Looks good! I've seen where car detailers would use peanut butter on faded black plastic pieces to bring back the color & sheen. Smear it on, rinse it off, something about the oils in it.

You may be able to find a local or online print shop that can duplicate your serial number sticker to look factory fresh.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I still have the intact model/serial sticker, I just need to reattach it.

I did try some automotive detailing spray (Chemical Guys brand) with zero improvement.

Yuk! Peanut Butter! It sounds like an awful mess.

 

[biketopia]

Doubt you're going to get the sticker to re-stick and look satisfactory. You could try some clear automotive paint protection film and see if that will hold it on.

Might be messy, but won't cost more than $2. Otherwise, you're looking at plastic paint that may hold up, or new plastics. It can't hurt to smear a little bit on a belt cover for a test.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I set the yesterday painted grille guard out in the sunlight & wind today.
The fresh paint hardened sufficiently for installing that formerly putrid gray/silver used grille guard.
My mission is completed!

I will never rub peanut butter on that faded plastic. Not in a million years.
My barn building is detached, Morton Building style.
It isn't mouse proof, and likely never will be.
I have mouse "death buckets" set up in the building year round.
I usually trap 50+ mice per year in the buckets.
I place the drowned in water mice over on the stone wall, as offerings for the local wildlife.

I have cornfields and farm animal pastures for neighbors.
Mice will always be a constant.
There is NO WAY I'm going to make a tractor smell like peanut butter.
All rolling inventory is parked inside the building with hoods up, SxS bed tilted up, and similar for discouraging mice from taking up residence in/around/under hoods of assorted machinery.
I would just run with the faded plastics rather than use peanut butter.
Using peanut butter is so far down at the bottom of the list, it's a miles below ground level.

IMG_20250404_150246271_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

IMG_20250404_150545686_HDR by cee_Kamp 32ACP, on Flickr

 

[BX25D Rookie]

There is an opportunity for a potential settlement for the recreational property unauthorized timber cutting/road building/property destruction/trespassing problem that I had back in late summer 2023.
Any settlement offer will likely come with the requirement of signing a non disclosure agreement. (NDA)
But at this time, nothing has been signed yet.
And if/when I sign the NDA, I won't be able to discuss the event or any potential settlement.

So I will publicly identify the two corporations involved in my dispute here and now, for the world to see, before I can't.
The "power company" involved in the dispute is New York State Electric and Gas.
The "tree trimming" subcontractor is Asplundh Tree Expert Company LLC.

Doing a public information search for similar type events, the following items were located.

3 tree workers shot while clearing way for power company before suspect shot by cops during arrest

A man shot three tree workers while they were clearing trees for a power company before being shot himself by police officers during his arrest, police said.

abcnews.go.com

Man says contractors trespassed, damaged his property in lawsuit

WINFIELD – A man said employees of a tree-clearing company hired by two other companies ignored his property's no-trespassing sign, damaged his property and dumped garbage on his land.

wvrecord.com

Regarding the event in North Carolina, the alleged shooter, WHY did he shoot the tree company workers? Fun? Target practice? Highly Unlikely.
What is the possibility that the tree company workers were doing something someplace they should not have been doing it?
An enraged property owner, fed up with corporate backed/encouraged trespassing & property damage?

I've been told in the past that I can be an a**hole at times.
This is likely another one of those times that I'm an a**hole yet again.
I don't condone/promote/deliver/or encourage violence, but in my own personal/uninformed/simple opinion, that guy in North Carolina should have received a medal, not a prison sentence.

edit: corrected word arrangement/placement for one of the companies involved in the dispute.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

My safety decals/stickers for the mower deck arrived at the local Kubota dealership and I picked them up.
The OEM decals/stickers were casualties from repainting the 60" mower deck.

For the second time in the last month or so, the Kubota dealership offered me a job.
I keep telling them sorry, no thanks, not interested.

The next time we get some warm sunny weather, I will install the deck safety decals/stickers.
While at the local Kubota dealership, I took several photos of a brand new deck sitting on a shipping pallet.
For reference with proper OEM sticker location/placement.

I believe I will try epoxy for reattaching the OEM mower deck Model # / Serial # decal/sticker.
I was lucky and got it removed without tearing or delaminating.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

My brand new Cuddeback/Cuddelink trail camera system has arrived!

One home camera (central image collection/transmission device) and six remote cameras for out in the woods. One of the remote cameras will be set up in surveillance mode, and continuously watching the recreational property cabin/gate. So five remaining remote cameras for watching deer, turkeys, bears, and trespassers. Perhaps more remote cameras can be added next year, the system will allow up to a maximum of 23 remote cameras all using one home camera as a image collection/transmission device.

Each camera unit runs on four D size alkaline batteries, so 28 in total needed for my initial setup.
Sam's Club had the best deal for D size alkaline batteries, and had 14 batteries in a blister pack.
The perfect numerical quantity per blister pack for my needs, and I bought two.

I will wait and see about long term battery life for the home camera, before buying the 120 vac power adapter. ($20) We do have grid power in the cabin, so long term, that may be the most practical solution.
I expect the home camera will be the most battery power hungry, as it consumes battery power
while collecting images from all of the remote cameras, and sending images to the Cuddeback server
via LTE cell signal for eventual remote camera image distribution to email addresses and texting cell phone images.

Amazon had the best deals on San Disk 32 GB SD cards, with one 32 GB SD card needed for each camera.
I found three packs (three 32 GB SD cards packaged as one unit) of what I needed, so I bought three of the three packs, and will have several SD cards leftover as spares.
(10,000's of full resolution camera still images per card using the 32 GB SD cards, the maximum capacity SD card size allowed)

In my spare time, I am "digesting" perhaps fifty or more pages of detailed trail camera system documentation.
The remote cameras have two distinct separate user interfaces.
The first, the "Simple" uses mostly pre programmed settings and is quick for setup & deployment.
The second, the "Advanced" allows almost any stock pre programmed camera setting to be modified as needed. They do however, suggest starting with the "Simple" user interface and the stock pre programmed settings.

One item that really grabbed my attention, the camera system is bi-directional.
If you log into your account on the Cuddeback website, the camera system will work in a reverse direction and allows changing most (not all) remote in the woods trail camera adjustments/settings from anyplace in the world with a decent internet connection.

Also, as camera "firmware" over time is improved, or remote camera features are upgraded, the camera firmware version can be upgraded to the most recent by plugging a properly equipped SD card into each camera, and upgrading the camera firmware. The trail camera firmware updated versions as features/bugs are addressed, is available for free from the Cuddeback website.
You only need one SD card with the updated firmware on it, and it plugs into each camera one at a time, out in the field, for the remote camera firmware updating process.

Initial setup, various camera settings, both user interfaces, troubleshooting, and expected system performance information is all in the documentation available as a downloaded zip file from Cuddeback.

The Cuddeback/Cuddelink trail camera system is designed here in the USA.
It is manufactured in China (like most all consumer electronics is) and built to the USA specifications.

So far, the documentation translation from foreign language to English appears quite good.

The detailed documentation shows some real thoughtful/smart people designed the system.

For example, when you set up the system, you enable, setup/deploy the home camera first. (in the cabin)
When you go and setup/deploy the first camera in the woods, before beginning the walk or drive to the location for that first remote camera, you use the Simple user interface, and put that camera you are going to deploy into a "Signal Strength Meter Mode" and it will continuously show the level or strength of the "Mesh Wi-Fi" signal being transmitted/received from the previously setup/deployed home camera.

The first remote in the woods camera will display on the LCD Simple interface ---- if the remote camera
being set up is not receiving any transmission signal from the home camera. So now you know you have exceeded the distance the signal is capable of traveling. The signal strength meter can display from
---- No signal, and up to 99 which is the maximum interconnected camera Wi-Fi signal strength.

They recommend a signal strength of 40 or higher for good image speed transmission between the various distributed remote cameras. They do advertise quarter mile remote camera distance separation for in the woods usage, and up to several miles distance for remote camera distance separation in open/ flat terrain.

It is some Hi Tech electronics!
I will likely print out the Simple user interface documentation and the quick start guide before beginning the camera system setup/deployment task. I now have all the needed hardware, batteries and SD cards for system setup/deployment.

There are three different available flash choices for nighttime photos/video capture.
You order your cameras with the flash unit choice that you prefer.
However, you can purchase separate flash modules, and change them out if your initial preference needed to be changed. The end user can change the flash modules out in the field.
"Strobe" is white light flash, highly visible to the human eye, and the longest distance flash option.
"IR" is medium distance flash performance, and somewhat visible to the human eye.
"Black Flash" is the shortest distance flash performance, and completely invisible to the human eye.
They advertise fifty foot distance for good quality nighttime still photos using Black flash modules.
Nighttime color video capture is only available with the White light strobe option.

I ordered my Cuddeback camera system with the Black Flash option, as it is less likely to be spotted at night, and have expensive remote cameras stolen due to visible light flash being spotted by humans.

 

[JRHill]

This is a place holder so I get feed. I'll study further and read more detail.

We have land++ with non-resident owners all around who only come here to hunt and do things that are illegal to do in the city.

I hope you are a good neighbor. Looks to be so.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

I am a good neighbor if left alone. And if you respect my many NO TRESPASSING posted signs.
If you trespass or F*#^ around with my rural property, I will be your bitter vengeful enemy.

If you have any questions at all about the Cuddeback/Cuddelink trail camera system,
and are not comfortable asking that particular question on the open Forum, you can always PM me
and/or exchange email addresses. Happy to help!

I won't begin the setup/deployment of the system for a bit, likely after May 1st.
We have out of town relatives arriving for a Funeral and will be busy for about two + weeks.

After that, let the fun begin!