Buying my first Tractor

[TheOldHokie]

Never owned or used a box blade but I maintained my 1/4 mile lane with a 3pt blade and the loader for little over a decade. and had no complaints. When that task became tiresome I solved the problem with asphalt and still use the 3pt blade and loader for snow removal. Box blade wouldn't be very good for that. I have an old 6.5' Myers truck plow that I am converting to quick attach and hydraulic angle. It will go on the new L3901 and the 3pt blade will probably sit behind the shed and rust. I wouldn't sell it because it does come in handy for landscaping.

I been around tractors for quite a few decades and the consensus from the community is that for road maintenance and finish grading a land plane is superior to a box blade. I would guess probably not as effective for relocating large volumes of material.

 

[scooterbragg]

Not to get too far off topic, but we’ve made great progress in reducing the amount of waste hay the goats produce. Mostly feeder deign and location.

Well I wish mine get the hang of it. A few weeks ago my wife found one hanging with a broken leg. She jumped in the side of it. But anyways the kubota will be way nicer than a wheel barrow.

 

[scooterbragg]

Never owned or used a box blade but I maintained my 1/4 mile lane with a 3pt blade and the loader for little over a decade. and had no complaints. When that task became tiresome I solved the problem with asphalt and still use the 3pt blade and loader for snow removal. Box blade wouldn't be very good for that. I have an old 6.5' Myers truck plow that I am converting to quick attach and hydraulic angle. It will go on the new L3901 and the 3pt blade will probably sit behind the shed and rust. I wouldn't sell it because it does come in handy for landscaping.

I been around tractors for quite a few decades and the consensus from the community is that for road maintenance and finish grading a land plane is superior to a box blade. I would guess probably not as effective for relocating large volumes of material.

congratulations on the L3901. I’m waiting on a few quotes. Im getting quotes with land plane. Im guessing that works as good ballast as well. Im sure I could pick up an old used blade fairly cheap.

 

[scooterbragg]

Any suggestions on how far is too far for a dealer? I have one about 40min from me but they don’t have any units and are back ordered for about 3months on loaders. I’m happy with the salesman and the service department is always busy. They only had 4 standard L series and one LX on the lot and no loaders on them. But I’ve got a few more less busy dealers a bit further that may be a little more competitive. I just don’t want to be forgotten about after the initial sale and have an hour and half drive back to where I bought it. Funnily enough the factory is here in GA. But no one seems to know when they can expect anything. What are your experiences?

 

[jimh406]

It takes me about an hour to get to my dealer. The parts guy treated me great even giving me a couple of bolts after I lost one out of my grader/scraper. He never asked who I was, so my thought is your local dealer is going to assume you bought from them or used if you start using their parts department for items like fluids, etc.

My dealer is very good as far as I can tell, but I had to either wait 6 months or buy my rear blade from a different dealer. When I went to pick it up at the other dealer, they treated me like I bought the tractor there. Well, they were very nice.

So I’d say the good dealers are still going to treat you right. If the local dealer is a jerk, I’m sure they’d be a jerk whether you buy from them or not.

Just my perspective … of course.

 

[PaulL]

My dealer is 3 hours away. I've had the tractor back to them once for servicing, but I was going there anyway, so it was only the trailer extra to drag.

I bought my previous BX second hand, and my closest dealer (about an hour away) never blinked at servicing it or selling me parts.

My view is that tractors are a bit like razors and razor blades. They don't make a lot of money selling the tractor. They make a lot of money over time on servicing, parts and fluids. To my mind, that means the dealer doesn't really care if you buy the tractor cheaper somewhere else, they'll still happily take your money for any work done on it. It may be trickier on warranty work - that may have to go back to selling dealer (depending on how Kubota pay them for that). But warranty work on quality machines in my experience isn't that frequent, worst case you have to drag the machine to them if that happens.

My experience is also that a small machine is often at the back of the line for service (certainly the case with my local dealer). We're in a fruit picking area, in fruit season if one of their bigger customers comes in with a broken machine, they know he's out of pocket until that machine comes back to him. I bring in my machine, they figure I can't mow the lawn for a week - and it's a small machine and they're lucky to get a couple hundred bucks a year from me. I don't like it, but I understand it. I go in for servicing outside peak season.

 

[scooterbragg]

Thank you guys so much for all the help. There’s a ton of good information here.

 

[Timmer92]

When I was looking the packaged pricing between the L3301 and L3901 was $1300 at one dealer and $1600 at another. For me with 0% financing it was a no brainer to go with the L3901 for a little bit more HP. We have a small hobby farm and have no problem finding occasional uses that push its abilities, so I'm glad I didn't go any smaller.

I'm looking for a trailer myself. Here's the weight calculations I've been using. The only thing that is an educated guess (likely excessive) is the tire ballast. The rest is from specs.

• L3901 - 2,778
• FEL - 365
• Bucket - 82
• Ballast - 600
• Total (lbs) - 3,825

 

[BigG]

When I was looking the packaged pricing between the L3301 and L3901 was $1300 at one dealer and $1600 at another. For me with 0% financing it was a no brainer to go with the L3901 for a little bit more HP. We have a small hobby farm and have no problem finding occasional uses that push its abilities, so I'm glad I didn't go any smaller.

I'm looking for a trailer myself. Here's the weight calculations I've been using. The only thing that is an educated guess (likely excessive) is the tire ballast. The rest is from specs.

• L3901 - 2,778
• FEL - 365
• Bucket - 82
• Ballast - 600
• Total (lbs) - 3,825

Look at you spec info again.

Tractor - 2778 pounds
Loader - 805 pounds
bucket - 265 pounds
ballast - 600 pounds

Total 4448 pounds

Plus the weight of the trailer ? At least 2000 to 2500 pounds. So you need to look for a 7000 pound trailer. 2 axles, brakes on both axles. What about other attachments for doing your work? Bush hog, box blade, etc. So you may need a 10,000 pound trailer.

 

[Jchonline]

Yes go 3901. 3301 will incur some losses from the Tier4 stuff (which the 2501 doesnt have) so you are really not gaining a full 8hp. The 4wd HST 2501 looses 5.8 HP engine to PTO. The 3301 looses 6.8HP.

 

[Jchonline]

Have any experience with a grading scraper? Should I go with that for my driveway over a box blade?

Box blade with scarifiers is great at relocating larger quantities of dirt (scarifiers dig and the box traps).
Grading scraper is better at shaping..and the heavier you have the better it will work.

If you need to crown a road...grading scraper. I personally only have a grading scraper (700 lbs) and I really like it for road work. You should expect it to take you a number of hours to get good with it. Dont expect to run 1 pass and be done. Expect to make lots of adjustments to the implement and your 3PT lower links to angle and offset it as you figure out what works.

 

[scooterbragg]

Yes go 3901. 3301 will incur some losses from the Tier4 stuff (which the 2501 doesnt have) so you are really not gaining a full 8hp. The 4wd HST 2501 looses 5.8 HP engine to PTO. The 3301 looses 6.8HP.

That’s what the dealer is telling me in regards to the hp. He’s got a l3301 gear drive he’s trying to sell me, saying I wouldn’t have to wait for the hst model and I wouldn’t lose as much Power the pto. But they’re still behind on loaders. I think he’s said there’s 22 L series units sold waiting on loaders right now.

 

[Jchonline]

The gear vs HST PTO difference is 27.7vs 26.2...do you really need 1.5 HP...no you don't...not for that huge of a functional tradeoff. He is trying to sell it to you because it has been on the lot forever and no one else wants it. Do not get a gear tractor unless you have a specific use case for it. For example seeding, spraying, planting...something that requires a specific constant speed to accomplish. In this class of machine, the HST is just a much better choice. Dirt work, moderate mowing, forestry stuff...HST is better imo.

 

[jimh406]

I like the HST, but I could see getting away with a gear as well. I think an HST is very good for uphill since you don’t have to shift. I don’t know if that’s a potential issue for you or not.

I’d also expand the range of what you are looking at to L3560LE and L4060LE as well. Do look at other dealers. There seems to be some that still have inventory. You might have to drive some, but the wait might be less.

 

[scooterbragg]

well I test drove a l4701 today that had a loader it (the only unit in stock with a loader) and I sat on a L3901. I think the 4701 is a little too big for me being in the woods. The 3901 felt good. What are y’all’s recommendations as far as options go? Extendable arms or quick hitch? Do they make a better seat? Something with better suspension. Also talked with the shop and they said they only ever see the standard l series for service and upgrades. No dpf issues unlesssomeone just kept hitting the regen cancel button. Anyway just looking for more ideas before I get a final quote. Also thinking cruise control. Let me know.

 

[PaulL]

well I test drove a l4701 today that had a loader it (the only unit in stock with a loader) and I sat on a L3901. I think the 4701 is a little too big for me being in the woods. The 3901 felt good.

Be careful on the impressions with and without loader. I believe (other than the loader) that all the L machines are exactly the same size. Having said that, most people say the L4701 is more expensive but there are only very limited activities where that more expensive turns into more productivity or more power - same tires means no more power on the ground, same weight and capacities. It can drive more on the PTO, go up hills faster, and it has a stronger loader. So I think you have the right answer for the wrong reason.

What are y’all’s recommendations as far as options go? Extendable arms or quick hitch?

I think it depends on how you store your implements. If on the ground then quick hitch, unless any of your implements aren't quick hitch compatible for some reason. If in a shed and on wheels, then you don't need the quick hitch. But the larger the implement the less you want to be horsing it around - an L is big enough that a quick hitch will pay dividends.

Do they make a better seat? Something with better suspension. Also talked with the shop and they said they only ever see the standard l series for service and upgrades. No dpf issues unlesssomeone just kept hitting the regen cancel button. Anyway just looking for more ideas before I get a final quote. Also thinking cruise control. Let me know.

I've never found cruise useful on my B, and I thought it would be really useful. I mow a reasonably large community field, but it's not flat enough to just leave the machine running at constant speed - there's a few bumps I need to slow for, then there's corners etc. And my cruise control won't lock at full speed - it always slips a little back, so using the cruise gives up a bit of speed. I wouldn't pay money for one personally.

 

[jimh406]

The L4701 is quite a bit larger with more loader capacity as well compared to a L3901 which is the same size as the L3301 and L2501. My dealer suggested that the L4701 isn’t a very good deal compared to the MX5400.

I’d also consider the L3560LE and L4060LE if you want a bit more power and stronger loader the the standard L series. They also are available in a cab that is good for heat/cool/dust and insects.

 

[scooterbragg]

Be careful on the impressions with and without loader. I believe (other than the loader) that all the L machines are exactly the same size. Having said that, most people say the L4701 is more expensive but there are only very limited activities where that more expensive turns into more productivity or more power - same tires means no more power on the ground, same weight and capacities. It can drive more on the PTO, go up hills faster, and it has a stronger loader. So I think you have the right answer for the wrong reason.



I think it depends on how you store your implements. If on the ground then quick hitch, unless any of your implements aren't quick hitch compatible for some reason. If in a shed and on wheels, then you don't need the quick hitch. But the larger the implement the less you want to be horsing it around - an L is big enough that a quick hitch will pay dividends.



I've never found cruise useful on my B, and I thought it would be really useful. I mow a reasonably large community field, but it's not flat enough to just leave the machine running at constant speed - there's a few bumps I need to slow for, then there's corners etc. And my cruise control won't lock at full speed - it always slips a little back, so using the cruise gives up a bit of speed. I wouldn't pay money for one personally.

Well I the l4701 was the first kubota loader I’ve seen in person. And it is on a bigger chasis than the other L series. I think I’ve settled on the l3901. It was nice to drive one and turn and lift and see how the hydraulics responded. Way better than the green tractors. I’ll be storing the implements on pallets on the ground. That’s interesting about the cruise control. I was thinking for driveway maintenance and bush hogging it would be useful.

 

[nota4re]

I had a L2501 as my first tractor which has the same FEL lift capability as the 3901 you are considering. This is 1131lbs which, IMO, is low. The two tasks where this was most noticeable were; 1) using pallet forks and lifting pallets, and; 2) when scooping in to a pile of freshly delivered decomposed granite. In this second scenario the meager lift capacity would not lift/curl the bucket until you backed up a bit. The tractor WOULD get the job done, it was just a reminder of the limitations. The last gripe I had with the L2501 was the treadle pedal. I really, really disliked it. At 6'2" and on the heavy side, I found that using your heel for reverse was awkward - perhaps especially when you are twisted around in the seat and trying to gently back into a 3-pt instrument. Impossible to use your heel in this situation and not very easy to move the ball of your foot back and forth. Anyway, I know that some people love the treadle pedal - I was one who didn't. I never had any issues with the L2501 and overall I liked it a lot but these were the gripes I had. Ironically, the great resale value of the Kubota was what made it so easy/attractive to upgrade.

 

[hedgerow]

When I started my search to replace my AGCO ST-25 because I wanted one with a loader and it made no sense to put a loader on the AGCO. I looked hard at the L2501 can't see enough difference in the L3301 and L3901 to spend the money to get a DPF filter and a little more HP. I looked at the L4701 also and by spending a morning on the phone calling around a three state area I found a MX-6000 for not much more money than a L4701 was. I was buying on a cash deal so that helped. Liked others have said there are tractors and loaders out there you just may have to drive to get it. Spending less than a day in the pickup to pickup a tractor saved me a ton of money. I am glad I went with the MX series. I sure can pickup a nice load with my skid loader forks on the MX.