Building a boat trailer ladder.

[mcmxi]

I started a thread last year about buying a boat and got to use the boat for the first time just over a week ago. My friend has a boat ramp and dock at his place a couple of miles north of Flathead Lake so it makes getting on and off the water much more convenient. However, the boat ramp and dock are not next to each other so getting on and off the boat once the boat and trailer are in the water isn't easy due to the height of the bow and bow rail. There's a "swim" ladder at the stern but you'd be waste deep or deeper going that route. This past weekend I began to make a ladder that would help with getting on/off the boat, and certainly make launching and recovering the boat safer.

I really enjoy welding projects and solving problems. I also like rummaging around in my steel scrap pile and building something from "nothing". It's not efficient to have to dismantle parts or old projects with plasma and a cut off saw in order to make something else, but it's certainly cheaper.

I built custom front and rear bumpers for my '98 Jeep TJ over 20 years ago. About 9 years ago I updated the bumpers to Smitty Built products and over the years have used the old bumpers as donor material for various projects. Once again I was able to use part of the old rear bumper and make the upright out of a section of 2-1/2" x 1-1/2" x .125" tubing. The ladder rungs are 1" Sch. 40 pipe that was part of a frame that came on the LMTV M1078 that I got last year. The 1/2" plates that clamp the ladder to the trailer tongue came from a large plate an ex-coworker gave me years ago, as did the gusset at the bottom.

I added a loop to the top of the ladder so that I can run a bow line through it and back to a cleat on the boat when I'm launching the boat by myself. It'll allow me to keep the boat secured once the safety and winch lines are disconnected.

I don't think I need to add gussets under each rung but I'll most likely cap the ends for a nicer finished look and to keep water out. The rungs are 10" long and 10" on center (staggered of course). Most step or extension ladders use a 12" spacing for the steps or rungs. I had to provide clearance for the winch handle and tubing that the winch mounts to, so they dictated the location of the rungs.

I was thinking that I'll prime the steel when I'm done with the welding, and then give it a nice coat of silver paint to match the trailer. The bolts shown are temporary so I'll need to buy four fairly long 9/16" bolts, nuts and washers. I don't need grade 8 but probably grade 5 or something. If anyone has any suggestions to improve the ladder, or notices any issues I'm open to all. So here's where I'm at.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Nice! Paint and some grip tape on the rungs should look factory.
Out of curiosity, why didn't you punch the rungs all the way through and weld on both sides of the upright?

 

[Tughill Tom]

Looks great, I'd use these to plug the ends Polyethylene Plastic Snap-in Round Plug, 2.11" to 2.2" ID | McMaster-Carr
Then get it powder coated in silver to match the trailer and as Evil said grip tape.

Them Patent it!

 

[The Evil Twin]

Actually, you could go over the top and have it dipped instead of powdre coat. Then it would be less rust prone.

 

[mcmxi]

Nice! Paint and some grip tape on the rungs should look factory.
Out of curiosity, why didn't you punch the rungs all the way through and weld on both sides of the upright?

I was thinking about wrapping the rungs with grip tape too.

As for your question re why I didn't cut a hole through the upright for the rungs to make it a lot stronger .... hmmm ... laziness, lack of planning, winging it, rushing to get it done, stupidity, didn't think of it .... take your pick!

Now that I know that I want the rungs where they are I really should cut holes all the way through even if it means cutting the tacks off and cutting new rungs. I ran a simulation in SolidWorks and with a 1/4" fillet weld around the base of each rung it's more than strong enough ... but ... your idea makes it a much better product. Also, a properly sized hole would keep the rungs perpendicular to the upright and just be a better design.

Thanks very much for the idea.

 

[mcmxi]

Actually, you could go over the top and have it dipped instead of powdre coat. Then it would be less rust prone.

You mean hot-dipped galvanizing? That'd be nice but not sure if anyone does that around here.

 

[mcmxi]

Looks great, I'd use these to plug the ends Polyethylene Plastic Snap-in Round Plug, 2.11" to 2.2" ID | McMaster-Carr
Then get it powder coated in silver to match the trailer and as Evil said grip tape.

Them Patent it!

I looked on the internet for boat trailer ladders and couldn't find anything so maybe there's a market for such a thing. The ladder is very light, surprisingly light. Maybe a pin on ladder would be an even better design, but more easily stolen too.

Thanks for the suggestion. If I cap the ends it'd be a welded plug since it's stronger and less likely to get kicked off, damaged etc. Come to think of it, if I use a hole saw to cut through the upright for each rung as @The Evil Twin suggested I'll have a plug that I could weld on to the end of each rung. I'd need to fill the pilot hole but that's easy enough.

 

[mcmxi]

@The Evil Twin, I cut a hole using the mag drill and suitably sized hole saw bit and I like it. I won't be able to run the bottom rung all the way through the upright for obvious reasons, but I can run the top four rungs through with maybe 1/2" protruding on the backside for welding. As you can see, the plug that is produced from cutting the hole will make a nice cap for the rung, and I'll need two caps per rung with this design.

 

[The Evil Twin]

@The Evil Twin, I cut a hole using the mag drill and suitably sized hole saw bit and I like it. I won't be able to run the bottom rung all the way through the upright for obvious reasons, but I can run the top four rungs through with maybe 1/2" protruding on the backside for welding. As you can see, the plug that is produced from cutting the hole will make a nice cap for the rung, and I'll need two caps per rung with this design.

View attachment 104870

View attachment 104871

Excellent idea of "recycling" the plug! For the 1st rung, a gusset could be added if you really wanted to. Probably not warranted if you aren't a linebacker.
I was talking about a galvanized dip. Just a thought. Not worth shipping it if you can't find one local-ish. That would be $$$$.
Good looking fab job!

 

[mcmxi]

Excellent idea of "recycling" the plug! For the 1st rung, a gusset could be added if you really wanted to. Probably not warranted if you aren't a linebacker.
I was talking about a galvanized dip. Just a thought. Not worth shipping it if you can't find one local-ish. That would be $$$$.
Good looking fab job!

I did a quick search and there aren't any galvanizers in this area. Maybe I can get it powder coated over the winter. I'll stick with the original plan of cold galvanizing primer with a silver topcoat for this season at least.

 

[GeoHorn]

Looks great, I'd use these to plug the ends Polyethylene Plastic Snap-in Round Plug, 2.11" to 2.2" ID | McMaster-Carr
Then get it powder coated in silver to match the trailer and as Evil said grip tape.

Them Patent it!

It’s not patentable…because it has already been released to the public (via this forum).
I found this out on a large, overhead, hangar-door I created…. when some friends asked me online about how I designed it…. I posted it on the club forum. When I attended my H.S. 50th reunion I met a H.S. friend who’d made a career as a patent-atty…who gave me the bad news.

 

[bird dogger]

That ladder is a neat idea. My suggestion comes from some experience....and age....and weight.... and is: When boating....alot of the time you might be barefooted and using that ladder. Or someone else might be barefooted and using the ladder. Supporting your weight while barefoot on the round rungs can be painfull depending on where you place your foot. And if you try to ease the pain by placing the rung on the ball of your foot or the heel....you or someone else may slip off the rung even when wrapped in grip tape.

An easy and better footing could be made from just a small flat surface welded to the top of each rung. Add the grip tape to that flat plate.

Slips and falls while boating will eventually happen to someone in the group. Sometimes alcohol can be involved. Avoiding the pitfalls and any sharp edges will lessen the chances of severe injuries.

A sure way to eliminate any possibility of slips would be to trade that beautiful Robalo for my little Glastron GT150. No front ladder needed for that water go-kart's trailer!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

For your rungs?

Rubber Tool, Pole Handle, Replacement Grip 1.25 X 11" Black | eBay

New black textured tool handle grip. 1.250" ID X 11.00" Length.090" +/- 0.10" wall thickness. # RG 1250 1100 010.

www.ebay.com

6 Set Dipped Textured Hand Grip Garden Tool Handle Lever 1 1/4" ID X 10" Long | eBay

Textured Rubber. Tool Handle. This is a Easy DIY Handle Upgrade Project! LETS MAKE A DEAL! Quantity : 6. We are located in Northern, Indiana, the heart of the RV industry! Color: Matte Black.

www.ebay.com

2× Textured Rubber Hand Tool Grip Garden Wheelbarrow Handle 1 1/4" ID X 10" Long | eBay

Textured Rubber. Tool Handle. This is a Easy DIY Handle Upgrade Project! Non-Slip Safety Covers. LETS MAKE A DEAL!

www.ebay.com

https://www.amazon.com/Protoco-Oar-Grips-Sawyer-Paddles/dp/B003F0PIPE/ref=asc_df_B003F0PIPE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241991498318&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8148867072521906478&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029659&hvtargid=pla-570309527410&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2YSCHZM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0C2YSCHZM&pd_rd_w=nyNLE&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=VE4GBMBJXE65V69V02WH&pd_rd_wg=QUSpJ&pd_rd_r=b495521f-8295-4150-9217-0a73e69ae22a&s=sporting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Y5J9GQK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B09Y5J9GQK&pd_rd_w=nyNLE&content-id=amzn1.sym.f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_p=f734d1a2-0bf9-4a26-ad34-2e1b969a5a75&pf_rd_r=VE4GBMBJXE65V69V02WH&pd_rd_wg=QUSpJ&pd_rd_r=b495521f-8295-4150-9217-0a73e69ae22a&s=sporting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

 

[will721]

Personally I wouldn't cap anything that isn't going to be coated on the inside. If theres a way for water to get in, it needs a quick and easy way out or it will rust from the inside.

Looks great, never thought of adding a ladder to a trailer. If I hadn't just gotten rid of my boat (thank god), it sure would be handy. Such a pain in the rear to launch and load a boat by yourself, that would have been a life saver. Especially now that I've married the clumsiest woman on earth who'd probably have just crashed it into the dock or beached it right on the cement ramp tryinf to help.

 

[mcmxi]

@The Evil Twin, I finished cutting holes all the way through the upright this morning for the rungs. Many years ago I read or was told that you shouldn't use cutting fluid when using a hole saw to cut through steel. I don't remember the reasoning but it was something to do with how the teeth cut chips, but it sure went a whole lot better this morning using cutting fluid.

I cut four replacement rungs at 12" to maintain a 10" rung with 1/2" on the backside for welding and capping (see sample below). Thanks again for this suggestion. It's more work but absolutely worth it. It's stronger, it looks better and I much prefer it.

I've decided that I don't like the functional but ugly gusset plate at the bottom so I'm going to replace it with another section of rectangular tubing. I'm going to have to live with this ladder for years to come so I might as well be happy with how it looks as well as how it functions.

I have a fair amount of welding to complete and some "dressing" of some parts to make it look professional. I'll post follow-up photos once the ladder is painted and installed.

 

[mcmxi]

For your rungs?

Those are some excellent suggestions @North Idaho Wolfman. I'll take a good look at those today and possibly order one of them. You will get to test out your own suggestion once I get back from a trip to the Motherland (leaving in about a week and a half).

 

[mcmxi]

It’s not patentable…because it has already been released to the public (via this forum).
I found this out on a large, overhead, hangar-door I created…. when some friends asked me online about how I designed it…. I posted it on the club forum. When I attended my H.S. 50th reunion I met a H.S. friend who’d made a career as a patent-atty…who gave me the bad news.

The idea of a trailer ladder came from my trips to a couple of boat dealers in the area including the one where I bought the Robalo. I was initially looking at pontoon boats and many of them, possibly all of them, had a ladder on the trailer to aid in getting up onto the boat. So I don't think this design was patentable given that's it's kind of obvious.

 

[mcmxi]

That ladder is a neat idea. My suggestion comes from some experience....and age....and weight.... and is: When boating....alot of the time you might be barefooted and using that ladder. Or someone else might be barefooted and using the ladder. Supporting your weight while barefoot on the round rungs can be painfull depending on where you place your foot. And if you try to ease the pain by placing the rung on the ball of your foot or the heel....you or someone else may slip off the rung even when wrapped in grip tape.

An easy and better footing could be made from just a small flat surface welded to the top of each rung. Add the grip tape to that flat plate.

Slips and falls while boating will eventually happen to someone in the group. Sometimes alcohol can be involved. Avoiding the pitfalls and any sharp edges will lessen the chances of severe injuries.

A sure way to eliminate any possibility of slips would be to trade that beautiful Robalo for my little Glastron GT150. No front ladder needed for that water go-kart's trailer!

You make some really good points. I'd thought about using c-channel for the rungs to give a flat surface since standing on a 1-3/8" round bar isn't the most fun someone can have, made all the worse in bare feet. I'm optimistic that the solutions presented by @North Idaho Wolfman will help both in terms of comfort and grip. Thanks for bringing these ideas up though, and please don't hold your breath waiting on a trade.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I've also seen these style ladders with a lifting ladder and/ or hand hold too to get it up higher when needed.

 

[mcmxi]

@North Idaho Wolfman, I ordered five of these this morning. Thanks for the suggestion and hopefully they won't spin on the rungs.

Rubber Tool, Pole Handle, Replacement Grip 1.25 X 11" Black | eBay

New black textured tool handle grip. 1.250" ID X 11.00" Length.090" +/- 0.10" wall thickness. # RG 1250 1100 010.

www.ebay.com