Brush Hog slip clutch smoking black smoke

[Redlands]

A very common issue it seems with new tractors is checking to make sure the lug bolts / nuts are tight on the wheels. Need to check them a couple times at least. Can be difficult to get them tight enough. Personally I had same problem with pretty much anything the dealer bolted up.

 

[Cathy Liebchen]

Here are some tips from our rebuild of the Eurocardan slip clutch on our Land Pride RCR1872. When we first picked up the tractor, we asked if the slip clutch had been properly ***8220;burned in***8221; and were told yes. Actually, the spring bolts were very loose and we had a lot of black smoke from the clutch and a lot of black dust inside the ***8220;bucket***8221; guard on the front of the gearbox. We bought replacement friction discs (2 of them, total $30) and decided to see if they needed replacement. Most people said with that much smoke the pads would be shot out.

Many of the Youtube videos and online posts were either misleading or outright wrong. Thanks to our dealer***8217;s service department, we got correct info and followed their advice below. Took about an hour.

The slip clutches have 2 friction discs, not one- there should be no metal on metal contact inside them. Never ever ever grease or oil the discs- amazingly several internet articles recommended this.
The driveline and clutch can be removed using tools through the oval access openings in the sides of the bucket- its not the easiest process but doable. No need to take the yoke apart. The clutch is attached to a 1- 3/8***8221; diameter smooth shaft from the gear box with a 19mm bolt head and nylock nut. This bolt apparently also acts as a shear bolt for the gear box, and the slip clutch is primarily to protect the tractor PTO.

Once removed, we put the clutch and shaft on the bench and took out all 8 of the spring bolts- 16mm bolt heads and nuts. The friction pad closest to the PTO was completely disintegrated, and the 4 metal mating surfaces had disc residue and gunk on them, but no rust. Cleaned them up some with brake cleaner and scotchbrite pad. They do not need to be perfectly shiny like a brake rotor, just mostly free of rust and buildup. Don***8217;t need to be lathed or turned unless its really bad, in which case you might just replace the unit if its that rusty. Put in the new pads and bolted it back up. Note the 8 bolts are in pairs- the hole in the flange that slips over the gearbox shaft needs to be aligned with a wide space between the bolt head pairs on the back of the clutch or you can***8217;t get to the shear bolt and nut with sockets inside the bucket once its back on. Greased the flange and gearbox shaft and it goes right on there. Marked the discs on the side with white paint and slipped it. Tightened the bolts to where the springs are just over an inch long.

 

[D2Cat]

Thanks for the followup. It will save someone a lot of grief in the future.

Your comment about false information on YouTube or other internet sites reminds me why the moderators and fellow members here correct misleading information. Reliable information is what make this site the valuable source it is. You just contributed it it!

 

[edritchey]

Other than the problem with the slip clutch on the bushhog how do you like the MX tractor so far?

Here are some tips from our rebuild of the Eurocardan slip clutch on our Land Pride RCR1872. When we first picked up the tractor, we asked if the slip clutch had been properly ***8220;burned in***8221; and were told yes. Actually, the spring bolts were very loose and we had a lot of black smoke from the clutch and a lot of black dust inside the ***8220;bucket***8221; guard on the front of the gearbox. We bought replacement friction discs (2 of them, total $30) and decided to see if they needed replacement. Most people said with that much smoke the pads would be shot out.

Many of the Youtube videos and online posts were either misleading or outright wrong. Thanks to our dealer***8217;s service department, we got correct info and followed their advice below. Took about an hour.

The slip clutches have 2 friction discs, not one- there should be no metal on metal contact inside them. Never ever ever grease or oil the discs- amazingly several internet articles recommended this.
The driveline and clutch can be removed using tools through the oval access openings in the sides of the bucket- its not the easiest process but doable. No need to take the yoke apart. The clutch is attached to a 1- 3/8***8221; diameter smooth shaft from the gear box with a 19mm bolt head and nylock nut. This bolt apparently also acts as a shear bolt for the gear box, and the slip clutch is primarily to protect the tractor PTO.

Once removed, we put the clutch and shaft on the bench and took out all 8 of the spring bolts- 16mm bolt heads and nuts. The friction pad closest to the PTO was completely disintegrated, and the 4 metal mating surfaces had disc residue and gunk on them, but no rust. Cleaned them up some with brake cleaner and scotchbrite pad. They do not need to be perfectly shiny like a brake rotor, just mostly free of rust and buildup. Don***8217;t need to be lathed or turned unless its really bad, in which case you might just replace the unit if its that rusty. Put in the new pads and bolted it back up. Note the 8 bolts are in pairs- the hole in the flange that slips over the gearbox shaft needs to be aligned with a wide space between the bolt head pairs on the back of the clutch or you can***8217;t get to the shear bolt and nut with sockets inside the bucket once its back on. Greased the flange and gearbox shaft and it goes right on there. Marked the discs on the side with white paint and slipped it. Tightened the bolts to where the springs are just over an inch long.

 

[Cathy Liebchen]

Other than the problem with the slip clutch on the bushhog how do you like the MX tractor so far?

We love this MX 5800- it is everything people said it would be. Big enough to do anything we want done but still easy to move around in the woods.

The family motto is we are hard on things. The couple of issues we have had were self inflicted- smoked the slip clutch. Bent a front hydraulic inlet pipe running over a hidden T post on the new property so it would bit hold fluid at the mounting flange and had to replace it. Brush hog rubber front deflector had to be replaced with chains. Son bent the back of the metal canopy on a tree. Husband bent the rear tailwheel yoke on the brush hog backing into something- had to replace it. Replaced rear brush hog deflector with chains. Fortunately the "land clearing" stage of this property is over!

 

[edritchey]

That's sound like it will be smooth sailing around there now that the ugly stuff is cleaned up.

I wanted to tell you I took my AG tires off and put my R4s on and my tractor sits a good 2" lower with the R4s on it in fact it will just clear into a 8' garage opening but the weather strip in the opening rubs the canopy a touch without the canopy it probably would go in fine we tried all this at my brothers sons place he doesn't have a barn. We did have to lower the backhoe a little to get into the garage or it would hit.

Good luck with your equipment and properties. EDR

We love this MX 5800- it is everything people said it would be. Big enough to do anything we want done but still easy to move around in the woods.

The family motto is we are hard on things. The couple of issues we have had were self inflicted- smoked the slip clutch. Bent a front hydraulic inlet pipe running over a hidden T post on the new property so it would bit hold fluid at the mounting flange and had to replace it. Brush hog rubber front deflector had to be replaced with chains. Son bent the back of the metal canopy on a tree. Husband bent the rear tailwheel yoke on the brush hog backing into something- had to replace it. Replaced rear brush hog deflector with chains. Fortunately the "land clearing" stage of this property is over!