Brush Hog-- Slip Clutch or Sheer Pin?

[Stitchit1]

I'm still hoping I'm getting my L3200 yet this week. I had a brushog in the package, & then I found a used one for sale. The used one is a King Cutter w/slip clutch. Of course, the new one having a sheer pin. Can anybody tell me which would be better for the tractor? I have no knowledge of the slip clutch or what it's advantages would be. I have had the sheer pin type model with my last kubota.

Any help & advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank You,

Chris

 

[Stitchit1]

Update: I've just been told by a fairly reputable dealer that the clutch type are far better than the sheer pin. Thanks!!

 

[Daren Todd]

The slip clutch does just like it says, come in contact with a thicker stump or rock and it slips to prevent shaft breakage. Shear pin will just snap and then you have to shut everything down and reinstall a new shear pin. Not sure about the prows and cons. Had a shear pin on a rototiller and it was a pain having to pull the cover and reinstall the shear pin, of course i think gramps was growing rocks in his garden along with the vegetables

 

[Stitchit1]

Haha. Thanks Daren!

 

[D2Cat]

If you get one with a slip clutch be sure to loosen all the bolts then adjust them to tension for your tractor making sure the disc are free.

Many times folks just leave the clutch alone thinking it's doing it's job. Especially if it's set outside the disc can get to where they don't break loose.

 

[TripleR]

I doubt one is "better" than the other, I like slip clutch and my brother likes shear pins, we're both happy.

 

[Stitchit1]

Thanks guys! D2, appreciate that tip. I don't know the first thing about adjusting them but I'm looking for some info on it. The manual hopefully will have it in it.

 

[D2Cat]

Stitchit1, the slip clutch is like "putting 3 CD's together" with a few bolts with springs on the bolts to make tension as bolts are tightened.

Two of those "CD's" are made of material similar to the brake material on drum brakes. One "CD" (the middle one) is made of metal. You basically compress all the disc together by the bolts and springs to JUST get the tension required to cut the material you're cutting.

Example, if you were cutting corn stocks you'd need greater tension then cutting a lawn.

Nothing complicated. Most important to make sure the disc are not seized. Loosen all the bolts a couple of turns, then tighten them one turn. Go mow and see if you have an area where the mower didn't mow. If so, tighten some more. Most important is to keep the clutch out of the weather. Even if you keep the mower outside cover the clutch with a piece of tin wired so it can't blow off.

 

[Rodeo hunter]

Keep in mind you need to store that slip clutch inside or away from weather or they will seize up. It's also a good idea to loosen and re torque every spring and fall. They require more messing with and care than a simple little bolt. Still easy just sonething to think about. Sorry I didn't read above post. But I'll x2 that

 

[Stitchit1]

Great info guys! Thank you!! I will check it out first thing when I get it. He's quite fussy & I'd say it's good but best safe than sorry

 

[Ezlife45]

I bought a slip clutch for the following reason.
I may hit big stuff, and or the little woman may hit big stuff. A slip clutch when properly working with keep working where a shear pin is down until I fix it.

I was warned by a dealer to make sure you "disassemble" and slip your clutch once a year so it doesn't freeze on you. Because if your clutch is frozen, it will not slip when you need it to and you could damage something.

 

[Bluegill]

I've had 5 rotary cutters since the early 80s' and have never felt the need for a slip type clutch. All have had a shear bolt and rarely ever shear one.

 

[BAP]

If you are mowing a lot of brush and have a lot of rocks on the ground, you will appreciate the slip clutch over shearbolts. Hit rock, and you will be replacing the bolt, with clutch, it will slip and you keep going.

 

[Ezlife45]

Or if you're like me and this is your first tractor and your first bush hog. Clearing stuff that hasn't been cleared in several years. All kinds of things to hit.

If I was experienced and I was only clearing high grass I probably would have been tempted to save a few bucks and get the shear pin. I am taking down saplings and there may be some hidden tree stumps in there too.

 

[gpreuss]

Over the years I've cleared about 50 acres of wild roses and saplings, plus regular mowing of 10 acres of field, 3 or 4 times a year. In 35 years I've sheared 2 bolts.
I wouldn't let the slip clutch / shear bolt be the over-riding factor in making the decision. I'd go for the heavier duty frame, deck and gearbox.

 

[Ezlife45]

Over the years I've cleared about 50 acres of wild roses and saplings, plus regular mowing of 10 acres of field, 3 or 4 times a year. In 35 years I've sheared 2 bolts.
I wouldn't let the slip clutch / shear bolt be the over-riding factor in making the decision. I'd go for the heavier duty frame, deck and gearbox.

Good advice. Being a novice I went with name brands I had heard of before. I have a bush hog rotary cutter and it is much beefier than the same size cutter at tractor supply.

 

[Pappy]

I've got a slip clutch on my Rhino 172. I used it recently for the first time this season, so I adjusted it first.

The procedure (at least on the Rhino) is to:

1. Loosen all the nuts that compress the springs that put pressure on the clutch discs.

2. Draw a line across the slip clutch mechanism, including the clutch discs.

3. Engage the PTO for a couple of seconds and then disengage it. Kill the tractor.

4. Make sure the clutch slipped by seeing if the line you drew is now broken.

5. Tighten the nuts back up to compress the springs, and then loosen the nuts two (2) full turns.

6. Mark another line across the slip clutch mechanism including the discs.

I did that, but hit a mound of dirt that rattled the cutter, so I checked the second line I drew (step #6 above). Sure enough, the line wasn't broken. So I backed the nuts off another 1/2 turn.

Hit another mound and re-checked it and, sure enough, this time it slipped.

 

[Pappy]

One more thing. A huge problem with adjusting slip clutches these days is that PITA round plastic cover that most manufacturers use on the input shaft of the gear box.

It has a couple inspection "doors" in it, but they do not provide nearly enough room to get in there and loosen the nuts, draw the lines and do the other stuff you need to do.

I cut mine in two on one side with a pair of tin snips in a way that allows me to take it completely off to do the adjustments, and then re-install it when I'm done.

Back in the good ol' days, rotary cutters came with metal shields that would either flip up or could be easily removed when you needed to work on the input shaft side of the gear box.