Is the blade nut on a brush hog a standard size or could they be anything. Trying to find a socket to remove nut so I can sharpen blades. Brushhog came with all the implements from Kubota I think
Brush hog blade nut
- Thread starter gldoyle
- Start date
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
you'll spend $25 bucks buying that huge socket, only to find out that even with a 6' cheater bar - there aint enough torque to break it free!
BTDT!shorten top link - raise her all the way up - block it up, and crawl under with 4" grinder, glasses and 5 minutes later, sharp enough!
'member - it aint gonna be razor sharp - actually a little dull edge on it is best.
Quite true, usually after a couple of minutes they will look just the way they did before you sharpen them.you'll spend $25 bucks buying that huge socket, only to find out that even with a 6' cheater bar - there aint enough torque to break it free!
shorten top link - raise her all the way up - block it up, and crawl under with 4" grinder, glasses and 5 minutes later, sharp enough!
'member - it aint gonna be razor sharp - actually a little dull edge on it is best.
With the right impact socket and wrench, they will come off. If it has been a long time, a 3/4 impact drive works miracles.
Russell King
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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
They will be large and probably either metric or Inch socket will work on the same nut.
If you want it off here is how I went about it.
Down load manual from the makers website and read it for hints.
Implement attached to tractor helps but not mandatory
There should be a covered hole in the deck to give access to the nuts.
Open it and spray both of the bolts/nuts with penetrating oil like PB Blaster not WD 40
Measure the nut with caliper and buy the socket that fits. Buy the largest drive you have or if buying it all go big 3/4 or 1 inch drive. Buy the longest breaker bar you can. Buy a extension if needed to get above the deck level but not too long.
Get a small come along (see below for more information)
Get the socket, breaker bar arranged so you are pulling the extension against the side of the access hole toward the three point hitch. Rig the come along between the wrench and the mower's structure that is it's 3 point hitch.
Try to break it loose but don't bend anything up.
If it breaks loose then you are happy, if not take off wrench and spray again with penetrating oil and wait a few days
Repeat until both are loose.
And remember righty tighty lefty loose so you go the right direction
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If you want it off here is how I went about it.
Down load manual from the makers website and read it for hints.
Implement attached to tractor helps but not mandatory
There should be a covered hole in the deck to give access to the nuts.
Open it and spray both of the bolts/nuts with penetrating oil like PB Blaster not WD 40
Measure the nut with caliper and buy the socket that fits. Buy the largest drive you have or if buying it all go big 3/4 or 1 inch drive. Buy the longest breaker bar you can. Buy a extension if needed to get above the deck level but not too long.
Get a small come along (see below for more information)
Get the socket, breaker bar arranged so you are pulling the extension against the side of the access hole toward the three point hitch. Rig the come along between the wrench and the mower's structure that is it's 3 point hitch.
Try to break it loose but don't bend anything up.
If it breaks loose then you are happy, if not take off wrench and spray again with penetrating oil and wait a few days
Repeat until both are loose.
And remember righty tighty lefty loose so you go the right direction
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The batwings may be that way because part of the blades spin clockwise, the others spin counter-clockwise.
I take those nuts off with a 1/2" impact wrench (a good, expensive one) and an expensive impact socket. It helps to have an expensive 180 psi compressor with excellent delivery. Note the emphasis on "expensive" for all. Cheap won't do it.
It is best to soak the nuts with Ed's Red or Kroil several times 24 hours before the attempted removal. If that doesn't work then heat with a torch. Wash the solvent off first with Dawn dish soap and water to prevent a fire.
When reassembling, I used to use a fair amount of grease on the threads but now use anti-lock. The safety police will chime in about blades flying off but the nuts have never been loose in the 40 years of running rotary cutters.
Of course, the blades can be sharpened in place...much easier and equally as effective.
The reason my blades are removed is because of very rocky soil causing the blade tips to deteriorate and disappear. I build up the the blades to OEM specs with 7018 welding rod and top it with Stoody 31 hardface rod. It makes the blades stay sharp at least another 30 minutes or so.
It is best to soak the nuts with Ed's Red or Kroil several times 24 hours before the attempted removal. If that doesn't work then heat with a torch. Wash the solvent off first with Dawn dish soap and water to prevent a fire.
When reassembling, I used to use a fair amount of grease on the threads but now use anti-lock. The safety police will chime in about blades flying off but the nuts have never been loose in the 40 years of running rotary cutters.
Of course, the blades can be sharpened in place...much easier and equally as effective.
The reason my blades are removed is because of very rocky soil causing the blade tips to deteriorate and disappear. I build up the the blades to OEM specs with 7018 welding rod and top it with Stoody 31 hardface rod. It makes the blades stay sharp at least another 30 minutes or so.
GWD, I've had blades so bent and chipped up I had my farrier use his forge to reshape them before I re-"sharpened" them!
I couldn't find new ones, so that was an easy option.
I couldn't find new ones, so that was an easy option.
GWD, I agree 100% about the impact wrench. I took my batwing apart and my 1/2" Thundergun did a better job than my 3/4" CP did.