Break in period

[DueEast]

I have a Ln L2501 I bought new and haven’t had a whole lot of time to use yet. The main purpose for the tractor for me is snow removal and brush hogging my field. 5 aces of rolling hills.

My manual states “Do not operate at full speed for the first 50 hours.” Of course, I didn’t read this until after already mowing most of my field the first time with only around 8 hours on the machine. My concern is mowing requires pretty much wide open throttle and my land requires 4wd to navigate. I put about 4 hours on the tractor over the course of a couple days mowing. I was using common sense and was going slow since this was my first time mowing with the new tractor. I did my 10 hr greasing early since I knew I would be mowing.

Did I screw up my Tractor operating at full throttle prior to 50 hrs?

 

[Motion]

Other than the manual, you'll receive many many opinion's on breaking in a new engine. I believe full speed and full load are two different things. I don't believe you caused any harm.

 

[mcfarmall]

Do you think that vocational farmers buy a new tractor and then putt putt around for the first 50 hours before using it for tillage? Do you think that landscape or construction contractors buy a new Super Duty pickup and use it as the grocery getter for the first 5,000 miles before dropping a skid loader trailer on the ball? Do you think a landscape contractor would buy a new Ln L2501 and not use it to prep someones yard for the first 50 hours?

I think you and your tractor will be just fine.

 

[DueEast]

Do you think that vocational farmers buy a new tractor and then putt putt around for the first 50 hours before using it for tillage? Do you think that landscape or construction contractors buy a new Super Duty pickup and use it as the grocery getter for the first 5,000 miles before dropping a skid loader trailer on the ball? Do you think a landscape contractor would buy a new Ln L2501 and not use it to prep someones yard for the first 50 hours?

I think you and your tractor will be just fine.

That was my thoughts as well. It seemed crazy that you should have to wait 50 hours to do any real work. If anything I would think to have the engine under load would help with break in

 

[DaveFromMi]

Yeah I read that too. The first time the tractor had to do a regen, I was prompted to raise the RPM up to near full speed.

 

[GeoHorn]

I think it’s another example of bad translation/interpretation. It should probably read “50 minutes”.

 

[aaluck]

I don't know why it would take 50 hours to break in anything. I use my tractor a good bit--weekly and only put about 100/yr on it. I cannot imagine doing nothin on it for 1/2 a year while it breaks in.

On that note I would like one of the mechanics on here to explain exactly what needs to be broken in. maybe @North Idaho Wolfman or @D2Cat can explain this to us.

 

[GeoHorn]

Ring-to-Cylinder-Wall, Valve-Seats, Crankshaft, Cam, and piston-pin bushings all need to “polish” before high-heat operations. But too much too-slow operations will not be beneficial because high-oil-flow lubricates and cools, and “crank-shaft oil-sling” lubricates upper cylinders...so avoid long idling periods.
A variety of operating speeds in early opns are best, and the governor will keep the RPMs to a safe range, IMO. (Governors restrict RPMs to less than 3K and internal combustion engines are otherwise capable of 5K-Plus without any damage at all, even when new.)

 

[nbryan]

Just don't continuously work the crap out of it yet. I just went a bit slower for a while - for example ran at 2000-2200 rpm instead of 2500 with the snow blower, go easier on the hst pedal, no really heavy ground-engaging work for hour after hour like dragging full loads of gravel with the box scraper. Maybe half full?
In other words, change it up for operating speeds and power output for the first 50 hours and you'll be good to go after the 50H service working it hard.

 

[aaluck]

Ring-to-Cylinder-Wall, Valve-Seats, Crankshaft, Cam, and piston-pin bushings all need to “polish” before high-heat operations. But too much too-slow operations will not be beneficial because high-oil-flow lubricates and cools, and “crank-shaft oil-sling” lubricates upper cylinders...so avoid long idling periods.
A variety of operating speeds in early opns are best, and the governor will keep the RPMs to a safe range, IMO. (Governors restrict RPMs to less than 3K and internal combustion engines are otherwise capable of 5K-Plus without any damage at all, even when new.)

Thank you for the information.

 

[thirdroc17]

The very first thing I had to do my new tractor was blow snow. Which required WFO, and a fairly heavy load. So much for break in on mine.

As was said above, you'll hear all kinds of advice, one is, "Break 'em in as you're gonna run 'em."

You might be surprise how hard that engine was ran before it left the assembly line.

 

[Mossy dell]

This is a great thread and I wish I had found it instead of basically duplicating it with my own questions about breaking in my B2601. Still, my basic question remains unanswered about what full speed means in terms of rpms. I know it means the throttle is wide open, but how far above rated rpms and the 540 mark is that in a B2601/B series?

My tractor's "rated rpms" are 2,800, and the 540 mark is there. Technically 540 is actually 2,768, per the manual, so maybe the lower edge of the red mark . . . So is "full speed "likely to be 3,000 rpms? Or higher?

 

[mcfarmall]

To me, full speed is the point at which no more speed can be attained, but I take most things at their literal meaning. 45 mph is the "rated speed" on my street but not what I'd consider "full speed." The street can support much higher speed.

 

[hagrid]

To me, full speed is the point at which no more speed can be attained, but I take most things at their literal meaning. 45 mph is the "rated speed" on my street but not what I'd consider "full speed." The street can support much higher speed.

Very good. It is when "all the speeds" are in your possession.

 

[Mossy dell]

Thanks, mcfarmall. So in your M series, how many rpms above the tractor's rated rpms is pegged out?

 

[Mossy dell]

Same question for you, Hagrid! I think Kubota is saying the rated speed is fine to work the tractor at, but beware of full speed, at least during break in. I just wonder—in your BX23, for instance, how far below max is the rated working speed in your experience?

 

[Nicfin36]

The L2501 is derated so as not exceed the 25 hp threshold. So, IMO, wide open throttle is a must much of the time. I think jammed wide open it can maybe attain 2400 RPM? I don't believe it even matters on the L2501. I took a bit of a pause when I read the "do not operate at full speed" language. But, I rationalized that it just wasn't realistic for the L2501.

 

[GeoHorn]

This is a great thread and I wish I had found it instead of basically duplicating it with my own questions about breaking in my B2601. Still, my basic question remains unanswered about what full speed means in terms of rpms. I know it means the throttle is wide open, but how far above rated rpms and the 540 mark is that in a B2601/B series?

My tractor's "rated rpms" are 2,800, and the 540 mark is there. Technically 540 is actually 2,768, per the manual, so maybe the lower edge of the red mark . . . So is "full speed "likely to be 3,000 rpms? Or higher?

“Full Speed” as intended by the Owner’s Manual means “governed speed”...that speed at which maximum speed is requested by the operator, yet limited by the machines’ engine governor. If you view your engine tachometer you will see a marked range which provides 540 PTO RPM...above which you will also see a few hundred RPM (200-300) still allowed by the engine governor, and perhaps a “red line” indicating a “maximum design RPM” not to be exceeded in any event. ”Full Speed” is the RPM at which the engine governor “limits” engine RPM.

 

[Mossy dell]

“Full Speed” as intended by the Owner’s Manual means “governed speed”...that speed at which maximum speed is requested by the operator, yet limited by the machines’ engine governor. If you view your engine tachometer you will see a marked range which provides 540 PTO RPM...above which you will also see a few hundred RPM (200-300) still allowed by the engine governor, and perhaps a “red line” indicating a “maximum design RPM” not to be exceeded in any event. ”Full Speed” is the RPM at which the engine governor “limits” engine RPM.

So somewhere above the red mark on my tach that indicates the machine's rated working speed of 2,800 rpms (and 540), is a request for full speed? Makes sense, if so. But my tach does not stop till 4,000 rpm. Surely the tractor can't achieve that. I just wonder how far above 2,800 is likely the dreaded "full speed," throttle wide open, that Kubota warns about.

 

[GeoHorn]

So somewhere above the red mark on my tach that indicates the machine's rated working speed of 2,800 rpms (and 540), is a request for full speed? Makes sense, if so. But my tach does not stop till 4,000 rpm. Surely the tractor can't achieve that. I just wonder how far above 2,800 is likely the dreaded "full speed," throttle wide open, that Kubota warns about.

The full scale of indications on your tach will exceed the design RPM of your engine. As I wrote earlier, the 540 PTO RPM range is only a few hundred (200-300) below the maximum governed speed of your engine. Whatever your engine governor restricts your engine RPM is the “full speed”. The governor will not allow your engine to exceed its design ”full speed”.