Boxblade tilting

[yankeepac]

Have been playing with my box blade on the farm today. Digging some trenches to try and get water to drain away from the barn.
Can someone tell me what the maximum angle i can set the blade at? I don't want to turn the side screw till it comes apart to find out. Also is there a technique to quickly adjust the angle?
I spent a lot of time making fine adjustments to the height so i could even turn the adjustment sleeve. I must be missing something

 

[Russell King]

From your description is sounds like you are adjusting the link on the side arm of the tractor so I have to assume you mean the side to side tilt since you were not specific (you can tilt it side to side or front to back (angle of attack).

If you are having so much trouble adjusting the side link, you should probably lubricate it.

I assume you have some type of handle on the adjustment link. Some have pins that stick out, others have U shaped handles. Often you will have to use some type of extension lever on them to be able to turn it. Box end wrench over the pin, pipe over the pin, pipe in thee U shaped arm...

Another tip is to set the blade down on the ground, disconnect the side arm you are adjusting from the blade, adjust it as much as you want and then remount the blade.

Most adjustment links will not fall apart - they should have a stop mechanism to stop that from happening. Disconnect it from the tractor and see how far apart you can get it before it stops. IF it does not stop and falls apart then just put it back together and screw it together about 1 inch over all length and then measure the length for future reference.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If you want to make it easy to do adjustments like that look into a top and tilt kit, it will hydraulically tilt and pitch the blade right from your seat on the tractor.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Like was mentioned, top and tilt for your 3pt hitch. If you are going to do much grading of any kind, it is the way to go.

 

[gpreuss]

Like was mentioned, top and tilt for your 3pt hitch. If you are going to do much grading of any kind, it is the way to go.

Do those cylinders tend to stay where you put them, or do they bleed back at a bothersome rate? The stabilizers on my old K650 backhoe would never hold against digging for more than a few minutes.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Do those cylinders tend to stay where you put them, or do they bleed back at a bothersome rate? The stabilizers on my old K650 backhoe would never hold against digging for more than a few minutes.

As far as your "OLD" back hoe, things were probably just warn out. Seals bad, rings warn, spool valve warn, a combination of it all.

My experience has shown me that the control valve is usually at fault for leak down. So do these cylinders drift down, yes if you have a bad control valve, otherwise, normally no.

 

[gpreuss]

As far as your "OLD" back hoe, things were probably just warn out. Seals bad, rings warn, spool valve warn, a combination of it all.

My experience has shown me that the control valve is usually at fault for leak down. So do these cylinders drift down, yes if you have a bad control valve, otherwise, normally no.

I certainly tend to agree with you - there is no sign of leakage at the cylinder. The old backhoe had the problem from the get-go, however. I only use it occasionally, so there has never been justification to buy different valves. I have contemplated the "tilt" portion of a top-n-tilt a lot lately. Thanks for your reassurance!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I certainly tend to agree with you - there is no sign of leakage at the cylinder. The old backhoe had the problem from the get-go, however. I only use it occasionally, so there has never been justification to buy different valves. I have contemplated the "tilt" portion of a top-n-tilt a lot lately. Thanks for your reassurance!

Give a look here for that side link.