Box Blade Sizing?

[trackman23]

I am new here and new to the world of tractors. I am building a house on ~16 acres and have bought a Kubota MX4800 to help with all the chores from land clearing / grading to large scale gardening and everything in between. The house construction is moving along and I will need to start planning for some grading and clearing activities to start soon. I plan to buy a grapple and a box-blade for my MX4800 but wanted some sizing advice first.

For the box blade, should I get one slightly wider than the tractor (~6') so that it will cover up my tire marks or will a wide blade have too much drag and result in other issues?

once I sort out the sizing, i'll need to buy one...are there any good direct-to-consumer implement makers out there; especially in central North Carolina?

thanks!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Just slightly wider is probably best, though I've never used one. For 3 decades used a 6' read blade on 5' wide tractor for grading like driveways, house lawns, swayles, ditches and stuff and sigh, snow pushing.
To get grades 'right', it take 'seat time'. The more you do ,you'll learn what and how to do and get better at it.

As for buying, maybe check out local papers/dealers for USED equipment ?

 

[old and tired]

I have a 6 footer on my L2800, you could handle 7'. Box blades are tanks and are hard to destroy.

One thing I would recommend, outfit your tractor with hydraulic top link and side link. It makes using (and learning to use) a box blade so much easier.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A 78" unit would be ideal IMO. Nothing less than 800lbs, heavier the better.
Even better, a unit that has hydraulic actuated scarifiers.
Thus one of the reasons to get 3 rear remotes.

There are other grading implements that have more specialized uses.
A box blade is one of the best all-around grading implements though.

 

[Hkb82]

Welcome to ott.
I’d definitely go wider then your tractor and as mentioned above heavier is always better with a box blade. Hydraulic top link will also be a sweet upgrade over constantly adjusting it by hand.
Have fun with your new tractor and be safe and get ready to be looking for any excuse to get some seat time.

 

[Sporto]

I definitely agree with the hydraulic top link it was one of the best up grades I had done when it comes to using the box blade

 

[Lil Foot]

Heavier the better.
Keep in mind that the wider the blade is, the easier it is to grade/level large areas.
The narrower the blade is, the easier it will cut/reshape/move dirt.
In other words, if you are leveling a yard/homesite that is fairly level to start, go wide.
If you are cutting a road thru very uneven ground, or cutting a road into a hillside, go narrow.
Blade should be wide enough to cover your track at minimum.

 

[Trimley]

To add to the "Tools", a piece of I-Beam with a shoe on each end and its own (floating) draft arms can be a multi-tool for grading and leveling.

 

[animals45]

If ya live in snow country ya may want to check if you can install tire chains without wheel spacers . If ya need the spacers that will affect the overall width .I totally agree with the top & tilt kit , though my lottery ticket hasn't come through for mine yet . .
animals45

 

[trackman23]

it is getting expensive already ...I'll need to add rear remotes to add a top and tilt kit but it does seem like useful functionality to have.

What brands of box blade have the best balance of cost / quality?

Thx!

 

[Henro]

it is getting expensive already ...I'll need to add rear remotes to add a top and tilt kit but it does seem like useful functionality to have.

What brands of box blade have the best balance of cost / quality?

Thx!

You absolutely want at minimum a hydraulic top link, and a tilt function makes sense if you are adding remotes anyway.

Wider than the rear tires is wise I think, at least overall.

Everything else mentioned above are great additions but over the minimum needs. But great if you can afford it.

My limited experience is that a box blade cannot be replaced by a rear blade. They both have their advantages. That is what I learned having both.

Good luck, and chances are you will be happy with whatever you decide.

 

[The Evil Twin]

I went with one that barely covers the tracks. Mostly because I also use it for ballast in the woods. Needed to stay maneuverable. Works well though. Graded the yard, installed a RAP driveway, spread topsoil. IMO, if you have the room, go 1 foot wider than the width of your wheelbase.
Everything Attachments is in Conover NC. Solid stuff.

 

[bbxlr8]

One of the major "musts" for my tractor was the ability to do major land reshaping & grading. BB was the first eye-opener need after the purchase for me. I thought I was going to get by and quickly discovered that there was no way in h3!! that was happening w/o a BB.

I am getting by (not ideal but it works) and truly see the need for at least a rear top link, but not in the cards now. I invested in a stump grinder instead this year and just jump off and take much more time to adjust the BB manually.

 

[anomad]

it is getting expensive already ...I'll need to add rear remotes to add a top and tilt kit but it does seem like useful functionality to have.

What brands of box blade have the best balance of cost / quality?

Thx!

I've heard good things about Everything Attachments and they are located in central North Carolina. I'll be looking at a 6 foot box blade from them when I get a bigger tractor.

 

[jyoutz]

For your MX, I recommend a 7’ box blade or an 8’ rear blade. You don’t want anything less than 7’ because that allows 6” overlap on both sides of your wheels.

 

[chris_the_wrench]

Thus one of the reasons to get 3 rear remotes.

You just answered a question I posted in another thread two minutes ago!

 

[KKBL]

A land plane (grader blade) works great to level larger areas of soil or long driveways.
We use one with scarifiers along with box blade and back blade to maintain a 1/2 mile gravel drive.