Box blade questions

[Daren Todd]

Cleaned out the garage and posted a bunch of stuff on Craig's list. Had two offers for my lawn mower and attachments. Ended up selling the mower separately and trading a cheap dump cart and aerator for a one bottom plow and a box blade. Box blade was off a scut and wasn't set up for rippers. Looks like it's set up for a cutting edge.

Question 1: what should I put in for a cutting edge?

Question 2: since it's all rusted with no labels, any one have an idea of the brand?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Daren Todd]

Here's a couple better picks of the box blade

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Corney]

Crap Darin I have a big need for that sub soiler! I have a pile of irrigation lines to plow in and that would work great with one bent tube modification!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Look to me like the cutting edge has been welded on already???

 

[Daren Todd]

I was thinking that. Then got to looking at the holes, so it got me wondering Didn't spend a whole lot of time looking it over tonight when I got home. We've had winds steady at almost 30mph, and gusts up to 50mph today I'm gonna need to fix a couple of broken welds.


Corney, that one bottom plow would probably be way to wide for what your looking to do. It's between 8" and 12" wide. For your irrigation line, you would probably only need something a couple inches wide. And realistically you could probably weld something up out of scrap metal.

Got some drainage issues in the back yard that I need to tackle. And some high and low spots. Figured this stuff should help out some

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

When you say you got a "one bottom plow" are you talking about the item in orange?
If you are that's not a plow its a sub soiler with a middle buster blade on it, you can change the blade to several different size blades.

How you can tell it's a blade the holes are square on one side to hold the plow bolts.

 

[Corney]

Tour right I am going to build one based on that. Any chance you could send me measurements?

I am not sure how you plan to use that rigging to deal with drainage issues? If you have slope down hill, maybe you rip first and get that blade at an angle cut in a swale or ditch? I did my yard with a whole bunch of Swales that connect up to a ditch that goes to a culvert across the road. I did most of this with a Ford 8N and a 3pth blade.

I have sandy loam so it cut pretty nice and I have only 2acres that slopes from one high point down hill about 7' over about 300 yards.

I built roads and was a paving superintendent for twenty years so I bought and designed the house and yard to deal with water.

Don't know what you are up against.

 

[Daren Todd]

I have some hi spots that need to be knocked down a foot or two. And low spots that need to be filled. Tried that last year with the back blade, but only succeded in taking the sod off, and didn't really make any head way. Needed something i could run back and forth across it to loosen the soil, so I could move it. Neighbor actually suggested him coming over with his middle buster, but didn't want to pay someone to do it.

I'll measure it tonight for ya

 

[Daren Todd]

Here's the dimensions in the photo's. was made out of 3/8" thick metal.

Main shaft was out of 1 1/2"x3" square stock 3/8" thick.

Cross member was out of 2 1/2" angle iron. flat brace's were also 2 1/2" and bent to cap the ends of the angle iron. Drilled then pins were added for the 3ph.

Bottom piece that is angled is made out of 1 1/2" flat stock with a couple braces welded in. Looks to be about a 22 degree angle.

Bottom half of main shaft had a piece of angle iron welded to it to give it a point. Should be able to see it in the photos

 

[Corney]

Thanks Daren!

 

[Daren Todd]

Got a chance to try out the box blade today. Cutting edge is too short to actually grab anything. Just grabs a little of what ever your trying to spread and rolls over the top of the material. Doesn't matter which angle it's at.

So if someone could measure the cutting edge on there box blade, with how far down it sticks down below the edges, I would really appreciate it. And also the thickness of the cutting edge.

Thanks

 

[Tomcat]

Maybe you could add some rippers before the blade.

 

[ShaunRH]

If the cutting edge is worn to the point it is at or higher than the bottom box edges, the only way to get it to cut decently is to angle the box front up and use it more like a standard blade but this just wears the blade even further down and puts the blade at a poor cutting angle.

You really need a new cutting edge if there is nothing left below the box. Even if that one is welded on, you can mount a new one through the existing bolt holes or drill new ones. The existing blade just becomes reinforcement for the new cutting edge. Nice thing about a new edge is they are usually double sided so you can just flip it over when you wear the new edge down!

 

[Daren Todd]

Tom, it's a little light weight for rippers. I'm thinking like coachgeo stated in a different post that it was made out of an old hot water tank. I did get part of the issue figured out. Had my neighbor come over and drive the tractor. I stood on the box blade. Box blades too light by a couple hundred lbs

Shaun, I think you nailed it with the cutting blade. I checked it, and it's pretty rounded off and could use a good sharpening. Or one added like you suggested.

That being said, it works great for spreading light gravel. And smoothing in holes in the yard. I'm gonna see what I can scavenge up for metal and probably build one in a couple months. Got a mack daddy portable welder coming in on a new service truck, and haven't touched a stick welder in nine years. Will give me an excuse to bone up my skills and play with it when it comes in