Box blade operation, do I need a longer top-link?

[ejb11235]

I run a BX23S with a 4' box blade that I'm learning how to use for tuning up my driveway. I've graduated from making the driveway worse to being able to make it better. I had a fundamental confusion about which way to adjust the top link in order to change how aggressive the front-facing blade is. I recently read an article that cleared up my confusion, and things went a lot better.

So here's the question ... even with the stock top link fully extended, I'm still picking up more material than I think I want. It seems to me that I should be able to extend the top link so far that the front-facing blade isn't picking up any material. Is that wrong?

I am dropping the 3PH all the way, so I'm wondering if that is the root of my issue. My expectation is that if the top link is extended far enough, the BB will have so much tilt that I can drop 3PH all the way and the box will remain tilted enough that only the back blade is in contact.

The answer to all of this can be solved with experimentation by purchasing a longer top link and then observing what happens, but I thought some of you might have some knowledge you could share.

Thanks!

 

[Edke6bnl]

you are correct, I can extend the top link and it will not cut but smooth out the surface.

 

[85Hokie]

You should also invest in some limit chains.

 

[Tire Biter]

Are you just using it for smoothing? Try taking the front blade off.

 

[dldarrow]

I run a BX23S with a 4' box blade that I'm learning how to use for tuning up my driveway. I've graduated from making the driveway worse to being able to make it better. I had a fundamental confusion about which way to adjust the top link in order to change how aggressive the front-facing blade is. I recently read an article that cleared up my confusion, and things went a lot better.

So here's the question ... even with the stock top link fully extended, I'm still picking up more material than I think I want. It seems to me that I should be able to extend the top link so far that the front-facing blade isn't picking up any material. Is that wrong?

I am dropping the 3PH all the way, so I'm wondering if that is the root of my issue. My expectation is that if the top link is extended far enough, the BB will have so much tilt that I can drop 3PH all the way and the box will remain tilted enough that only the back blade is in contact.

The answer to all of this can be solved with experimentation by purchasing a longer top link and then observing what happens, but I thought some of you might have some knowledge you could share.

Thanks!

Can you post a link to the article that helped you? I am new to the box blade as well.

 

[ejb11235]

@85Hokie thanks for reminding me about limit chains. I remember reading about them but had forgotten.
@Tire Biter not just smoothing ... this weekend I had rippers down. But it hadn't occurred to me to "just" take the blade off. Enough of a hassle though I would get a longer top link first.
@Edke6bnl thanks for answering my specific question ... that's helpful

 

[ejb11235]

Can you post a link to the article that helped you? I am new to the box blade as well.

It might have been this one ... I know it was something green. Really short and simple ... you'll be disappointed probably. But I'll tell you what my confusion was ...

So I had been thinking that to lower the aggressiveness of the front blade, you should tilt the box blade forward, so that the front blade would "lift up". And I recently had seen a box blade that actually had some runners on the bottom near the front ... and somehow that actually reinforced my misunderstanding. I was already starting to realize that this wasn't working because all that happened was the front of the box blade just started sinking into the dirt and then the blade was chewing up tons of material.

After I read the article I thought "well duh of course, how could I be so stupid" ... as you tilt the box backwards, eventually it starts riding on the back blade, and the front blade gets high enough that it doesn't contact the soil.

I haven't measured the top link on the BX, but I'm going to guess that it's relatively short, which is better for forward tilt to get my landscape rake up off the ground on rough terrain, but limits the amount of back-tilt I can get, which isn't good for box blade use. I am seriously considering getting hydraulic top and tilt, so simply duplicating the stock top link might not get me what I want. I'll probably have to pick my poison ... more back-tilt or more front-tilt. Top link cylinders aren't crazy expensive, so I could always have a longer one for box blade and a shorter one for rake. I'm getting a bit ahead of myself though...I don't even have rear remotes yet.

 

[GibbyESS9]

I have the Landpride BB and use the rear link/hole with it. Works great with gravel driveway that I have. I guess its just enough to tilt the front blade up. Do you have two hole/pin spots for top link??

 

[SDT]

You should also invest in some limit chains.

Agreed.

Limiter chains are just about mandatory without position control.

 

[ejb11235]

I have the Landpride BB and use the rear link/hole with it. Works great with gravel driveway that I have. I guess its just enough to tilt the front blade up. Do you have two hole/pin spots for top link??

Unfortunately there's only one hole.

I'm likely going to be installing a Pat's Quick Hitch (my two implements are not QuickHitch compatible). So that's going to push the implements even farther away. Fortunately manual top links don't cost very much. If I put on a hydraulic top n tilt then having two toplinks gets a bit more costly, although not crazy. One thing at a time though.

 

[ejb11235]

Agreed.

Limiter chains are just about mandatory without position control.

A couple of years ago I looked at the back of my BX and didn't see any good places to attach limiter chains. Not wild about using the ROPS. I'll have to do some more research ... I have a lot more experience now with the tractor and tractoring, so maybe I'll see something I hadn't noticed before.

 

[D2Cat]

You need some brackets like these to connect to the pins already in use to hold your implements in place. The round hole goes over the pins, the slotted hole holds the chain and adjusted to desired length.

 

[ejb11235]

You need some brackets like these to connect to the pins already in use to hold your implements in place. The round hole goes over the pins, the slotted hole holds the chain and adjusted to desired length.

Thanks D2 ... I just found a comment you made on another thread six years ago ... "Typically the brackets for the chain is attached at the same pin the top link has. One one each side, then the lynch pin holds it all in place."

I also saw a follow-on comment by the OP saying there wasn't any room, and your humorous reply of "That's why they are called compact utility tractors, and sub-compact utility tractors!! No extra room for much of anything."

So we'll see. Nevertheless, thank you, this is very helpful. Because when I looked before, I didn't see anywhere else on the BX I could attach chains to responsibly.

 

[D2Cat]

Thanks D2 ... I just found a comment you made on another thread six years ago ... "Typically the brackets for the chain is attached at the same pin the top link has. One one each side, then the lynch pin holds it all in place."

I also saw a follow-on comment by the OP saying there wasn't any room, and your humorous reply of "That's why they are called compact utility tractors, and sub-compact utility tractors!! No extra room for much of anything."

So we'll see. Nevertheless, thank you, this is very helpful. Because when I looked before, I didn't see anywhere else on the BX I could attach chains to responsibly.

You can find them ready to use on Amazon and Ebay. I had a friend drill these with his fancy drill (it was originally a spring from a trailer).