Bottom of my bucket has no paint

[Bearcatrp]

I do allot of back dragging maintaining my long driveway that has class II on it. If I paint it, it will be scraped off the next month. Do you folks keep painting it or just leave it bare? Open to suggestions on something more durable to paint it. Am still learning to use my back blade but currently suck at it. thanks

 

[Lil Foot]

Not much paint left on mine for years.

 

[jyoutz]

I do allot of back dragging maintaining my long driveway that has class II on it. If I paint it, it will be scraped off the next month. Do you folks keep painting it or just leave it bare? Open to suggestions on something more durable to paint it. Am still learning to use my back blade but currently suck at it. thanks

Back dragging isn’t necessarily the best way to smooth a driveway and it can also damage your bucket cylinder. Get a rear blade and spin the moldboard around backwards, float the 3ph and drive forward. It’s easier to go, works better, and won’t damage anything.

 

[GrizBota]

Just drag it on a regular basis to keep the rust at bay.

 

[nbryan]

I do allot of back dragging maintaining my long driveway that has class II on it. If I paint it, it will be scraped off the next month. Do you folks keep painting it or just leave it bare? Open to suggestions on something more durable to paint it. Am still learning to use my back blade but currently suck at it. thanks

I have a boxblade so don't need to back blade very much with my loader especially for jobs like yours. The ground engaging surfaces of the box blade and its ripper teeth and my loader bucket scraper edge have been shiny bare metal since their first few seasons. And yes, if they get damp or wet and sit they start to show a surface rust film.

The steel these parts are made are tempered alloys made for punishment, and this also seems to retard rust substantially. Lilfoot's 1st pic demos this. I see it in my equipment, too.

If you're really concerned I suggest Fluid Film for rust inhibition on these un-paintable ground contact surfaces. Clean off dirt after use, then a light spray of Fluid Film and a second light wipe with a FF dampened rag to lightly coat on all surfaces.

I don't bother and never worry about a slight film of rust on my buckets or box blade business ends. I save the FF for other lubing like linkages.

 

[mikester]

Do you have a Harley Davidson in the garage? If so then yes you should repaint the tractor bucket bottom and polish the rest of the tractor every weekend. Park the tractor in the driveway with the muffler removed and let the tractor idle for 15 minutes and goose the throttle a couple of times every minute while waiting. Now park it back in the garage.

I'd do this but I don't have a HD or neighbours close by.

 

[leveraddict]

I dont wory about rust on ground engaging equipment but before I park an implement for the winter I do put boiled linseed oil on all exposed metal! Come spring it still looks good!

 

[NCL4701]

Not specific to Kubota but I have implements that I know have been totally bare on the ground engaging portion for at least 50 years. Some probably longer but that’s the extent of my direct knowledge of their history in that regard. They’ve always been inside a shed, shelter, something to keep them out of the mud/grass/wet when not in use. They aren’t parade ready. Zero effect on performance. Wouldn’t worry about it.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

heck I finally got around to painting the 3 furrow plow last week, Kubota orange as no persian Orange in the store. Plow is 70 years old, same as me and I decided one of us needed a 'make over'.

It's unlikely you'll find any paint that will stay on a bucket,so if you want 'pretty', buy a 2nd bucket. One for 'show' and one for 'go'.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

For me it depends on frequency of use especially in a wear area such as a toothbar and bucket or discs on the bedder, shovels on the plow. If I plan to use an again soon, then I don’t worry it’ll shine up with use…such as the bucket and I use regular. For that for me, there is no need to put a protective coating (paint or lube) as it will be removed almost as quickly as it dries. The discs on my bedder that is a seasonal use and if I remember to have some spray lube with me I will spray the discs when I drop it if I remembered to hose it off before I undock it. But again it shines right up either way with use.

One of my neighbors on the other hand has a beautiful / meticulously cared for shop and equipment and power products…it is his self stated ‘show place’…it’s awesome. Nothing is parked in it that does not look like new, including his tractor and uses all of it. Only problem I have is he will not sell any of his low hour excellent condition for the price I am willing to pay. . He really cares for his stuff and it shows, and that is his purpose and he is proud of it…I would be too. I guess my point is two fold. 1. I am not sure it matters but it’s a personal choice so do what you like. 2. There is no point in exceptional / meticulous care if not willing to sell them to me at price I am willing to pay. of course I am kidding…but That really is the the type of person I would like to buy used stuff from…I would even pay his asking price without question if willing to sell.

 

[D2Cat]

Your goal should be to wear the paint off of the inside of the bucket, and not be concerned of paint wore off of it anywhere!

 

[ve9aa]

Only museum models have paint there

 

[Bearcatrp]

Thanks folks. I tried my back blade going in reverse instead of spinning it around but didn't do so well. Was hoping it would level as I go but didn't seem to work very well. May try spinning it around and try again. Wasn't sure how durable these bucket are so thats why I asked. Still learning as I go. I posted another thread so see if a belly blade was available. Have used them on snow plow trucks when I was with MnDot. Think it would be a good attachment for a tractor.

 

[D2Cat]

Thanks folks. I tried my back blade going in reverse instead of spinning it around but didn't do so well. Was hoping it would level as I go but didn't seem to work very well. May try spinning it around and try again. Wasn't sure how durable these bucket are so thats why I asked. Still learning as I go. I posted another thread so see if a belly blade was available. Have used them on snow plow trucks when I was with MnDot. Think it would be a good attachment for a tractor.

You may need to keep playing with your back blade. That blade will perform differently by the adjustment to the top link. You can drag the blade over the top of material spreading it slowly and evenly by shortening the top link. The shorter, the less the blade grabs and drags over easier. Extend the top link and the blade will grab more material and pull harder. You can rotate the blade 180 deg. and have the same effect. Play with it and see what you learn!!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks folks. I tried my back blade going in reverse instead of spinning it around but didn't do so well. Was hoping it would level as I go but didn't seem to work very well. May try spinning it around and try again. Wasn't sure how durable these bucket are so thats why I asked. Still learning as I go. I posted another thread so see if a belly blade was available. Have used them on snow plow trucks when I was with MnDot. Think it would be a good attachment for a tractor.

Back blades don't have down pressure. Back dragging with a loader bucket is a standard and accepted practice.

Dan

 

[Vigo]

No coating can really withstand backdragging on rocks so the pragmatic answer is just dont worry about it.

Just try the backwards angle blade going forward in float, it is a MUCH less sensitive method than backdragging with a loader bucket. It may not have downpressure but its pretty easy to simply add weight to it, plus your top link setting adjusts the aggressiveness of what the blade does.

 

[Watchmaker]

I teased my dealer about this and he thought I was serious. He then told me about people who required the whole bucket to be repainted after it got scratched. Apparently there are a number of buyers around me who park their Kubota next to their Tesla.

I am not kidding. Given I know people who spend $150K on a watch for status and no performance benefit beyond an Omega or Rolex (which I now like better because it did not go down the gimmick path), I believe him.

Funny old world. FWIW, I like original Currier and Ives prints. For over 100 years they escalated in value to over $25K for the larger ones. It collapsed after 2000 and now I can afford to buy the ones I have always liked for under $500. They bring me peace.

Buying "collectibles" for long-term speculation is a sucker's bet. And tractors ain't collectibles. We buy things that either bring us joy or that do a job. Speculation is done with Index ETFs.

 

[Vigo]

I thought the watch references were sort of a strange tangent to go down until i noticed what your username was!

Im a car mechanic so i bring up automotive references all the time.

 

[old and tired]

....back blade going in reverse instead of spinning it around but didn't do so well. Was hoping it would level as I go but didn't seem to work very well. May try spinning it around and try again.

Try the back blade set at an angle (45*), with you driving forward and with the rear blade reversed, 180* (the back of the blade should be facing you).

 

[airbiscuit]

I wouldn't worry about the rust, however:

When Bobcat first started making skidsteers, people were wearing out buckets by backdragging with the bottoms or back corners of the buckets. They taught them t tilt the bucket down slightly and use the front cutting edge.

When I had a skidsteer, I painted the bucket with Valspar Implement paint, and I was amazed how well it held up (didn't wear off)