Bolts To Studs On A BX Front Axle

[GreensvilleJay]

ah, 'cheated', put spacers on....

Orange anodizing is easy. Order raw aluminum spacers and 'DIY'. Lots of info online these days. 5 decades ago you had to go to the big building with library on it, goto 'science ' section, ask the old gal there 'where's the book' ?...seconds later she had it for you..

 

[Trimley]

It should be noted that this manner of shade tree stud use may be OK for tractors (low speed), but is an absolute NO-NO for cars, and trucks!

You would use the RED Loctite if putting on a vehicle, right?


NO


/SA-end

 

[Trimley]

ah, 'cheated', put spacers

Not that I cheated, it just worked out that way.

 

[DustyRusty]

ah, 'cheated', put spacers on....

Orange anodizing is easy. Order raw aluminum spacers and 'DIY'. Lots of info online these days. 5 decades ago you had to go to the big building with library on it, goto 'science ' section, ask the old gal there 'where's the book' ?...seconds later she had it for you..

That "old gal" was my old girlfriend!

 

[dlsmith]

If I were to change out the fronts, I'd drill the holes for real studs.

No disrespect, All-Thread with blue (any) Loctite is hokey. In a pinch/temp, OK. I would be doing real studs if I was going that route.

Good practice run.....

You'd have to disassemble the front knuckles to do that as there is no clearance to put them in from the rear.

 

[woodman55]

I have been using lube on wheel studs/nuts and bolts for 30 plus years with full torque. Never had any come loose, never broke any studs, no pulled threads, never had any seize on. But in 35 plus years as a mechanic, I saw lots of dry seized studs/nuts, pulled threads, wore out threads, loose wheels, and even a few missing wheels, all with dry threads.

 

[Trimley]

You'd have to disassemble the front knuckles to do that as there is no clearance to put them in from the rear.

Interesting to know. I haven't had reason to look. Given that pickle, I would likely not mess with it at all.

 

[Trimley]

I have been using lube on wheel studs/nuts and bolts for 30 plus years with full torque. Never had any come loose, never broke any studs, no pulled threads, never had any seize on. But in 35 plus years as a mechanic, I saw lots of dry seized studs/nuts, pulled threads, wore out threads, loose wheels, and even a few missing wheels, all with dry threads.

I was taught by Grandpa (machinist) to torque, back off, then retorque if using anti-sieze types, and thread lockers on fasteners. I've never had any issues either.

Yes there are applications and fasteners where anti-sieze should not be used. Don't quote me. If you don't know, don't play backyard mechanic. Therefore, I do lots of reading to know if I want to attempt the repair myself.

 

[dlsmith]

I was taught by Grandpa (machinist) to torque, back off, then retorque if using anti-sieze types, and thread lockers on fasteners. I've never had any issues either.

Yes there are applications and fasteners where anti-sieze should not be used. Don't quote me. If you don't know, don't play backyard mechanic. Therefore, I do lots of reading to know if I want to attempt the repair myself.

When I was maintaining a fleet of trucks and construction equipment back in the 70s, we used Never-sieze by the case. Any threaded fasteners that were exposed to the outside environment and was removed for regular maintenance, were swabbed with Never-sieze before re-installation. On trucks with Budd wheels, it was always applied liberally to the 20 inner and outer nuts on duals and also the the front wheel studs. We never had frozen fasteners and was worth all the mess from the Never-sieze. Construction equipment were especially critical applications for anti-size, because of where they operated and the infrequency with which some parts being removed made it worth every penny of it's cost.

 

[Chanceywd]

I worked 26 yrs in maintenance at monofilament extrusion. Every threaded bolt, thermocouple well, pressure transducer always was neverseized. the process temperatures near 600F for polyester could be for a few hours or days or weeks depending on the run time. Never a problem with proper torque or getting apart unless someone skipped the neverseize. Top grade metric fasteners were always used. If I remember right they were 12.9.

Bill

 

[6869704x4]

I have been using lube on wheel studs/nuts and bolts for 30 plus years with full torque. Never had any come loose, never broke any studs, no pulled threads, never had any seize on. But in 35 plus years as a mechanic, I saw lots of dry seized studs/nuts, pulled threads, wore out threads, loose wheels, and even a few missing wheels, all with dry threads.

And you have over torqued for 30 plus years. I don't know about Canada but in the US unless otherwise specified the torque value is for clean dry threads. I was even taught this in A&P school. You have to adjust the torque depending on the lube. Some lube calls for a 50% reduction. Wonder if these guys know what they're talking about.

Reduced Torque with Lubricated Bolts

Lubrication effect on bolt tension and torque.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

https://www.ti64.com/v/vspfiles/assets/docs/fasteners%20101%20torque.pdf

If you use lube, and I do, adjust the torque.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I was even taught this in A&P school. You have to adjust the torque depending on the lube. Some lube calls for a 50% reduction.

Reduced Torque with Lubricated Bolts

Lubrication effect on bolt tension and torque.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com

https://www.ti64.com/v/vspfiles/assets/docs/fasteners%20101%20torque.pdf

If you use lube, and I do, adjust the torque.

I remember the same thing when I was an A&P (well technically I still am)

We had to go by the manuals TO THE LETTER....The inspectors would lose their minds if you decided to put anything on the threads unless the manual explicitly spelled it out.

I generally avoid it though, cause just walking near the bottle causes that sh!t to get all over me....LOL

On my cars I put it on the back of rotors and stuff to prevent them from sticking, but I never put it on my wheel studs because they come on an off so often they never seize up

I use "torque stick's" to put my wheels on with dry threads. Never had a problem getting them on or off.

 

[lynnmor]

I generally avoid it though, cause just walking near the bottle causes that sh!t to get all over me....LOL

I too hate using the stuff.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I use a 1" paint brush, with 2/3rds the bristles cut down. Same brush and can past 3 decades. I don't get the 'slippery silver' on me perhaps cause I use a LITTLE and not a lot ??

 

[Trimley]

I use a 1" paint brush, with 2/3rds the bristles cut down. Same brush and can past 3 decades. I don't get the 'slippery silver' on me perhaps cause I use a LITTLE and not a lot ??

I've been using from a very small can that was in my grandfather's garage, I recall seeing when I was a youngster. I use a toothbrush. A little bit goes a loooooong ways.

 

[xrocketengineer]

If I were to change out the fronts, I'd drill the holes for real studs.

No disrespect, All-Thread with blue (any) Loctite is hokey. In a pinch/temp, OK. I would be doing real studs if I was going that route.

Good practice run.....

Don't knock the Loctite too much. If it is good for space hardware is worth considering for everything else. Keep in mind that this is for secondary locking feature.

Llis

 

[Trimley]

Don't knock the Loctite too much. If it is good for space hardware is worth considering for everything else. Keep in mind that this is for secondary locking feature.

Llis

I would use red.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

use orange nail polish ! It's color matching !!!

 

[Boatman]

I was mentioned that VW and other vehicles use the same lug bolt method. We had numerous VW's over the years and I always had a piece of threaded rod that I screwed into one of the holes. Then slid the wheel on easily, ran in a couple lug bolts and removed the threaded rod. Easy peasy. Fast forward a couple years and my wife bought a Mercedes GLK. In the tool kit was threaded dowel for this exact purpose. That got me to thinking,,, I looked in the tool kit for my Sprinter and there was one in there also.
Just another thought.