I have a L3010, lost the key and hot wired the switch to get it off the trailer. Found the key and now when I turn it on it blows the 40 amp fuse by the starter. Any help, suggestions would be great.
Blowing the 40 Amp fuse
- Thread starter rstacy0815
- Start date
It sounds like you really "hot wired" your machine. Based in the information provided YOU need to un-hot-wire it.
If you don't have the WSM it is available here.
I'm assuming you have removed any mods you did to get it to start and looked carefully around where you were modifying to verify you haven't left a short somewhere.
That big fuse protects just about all the wiring on your machine.
I think the problem will be upstream of the fuse box because none of those circuits are fused high enough to clear the 40A fuse.
I think it would be a bad plan to keep replacing the big fuse until you are pretty sure you have found something.
Start with visual troubleshooting.
I'm assuming you have removed any mods you did to get it to start and looked carefully around where you were modifying to verify you haven't left a short somewhere.
That big fuse protects just about all the wiring on your machine.
I think the problem will be upstream of the fuse box because none of those circuits are fused high enough to clear the 40A fuse.
I think it would be a bad plan to keep replacing the big fuse until you are pretty sure you have found something.
Start with visual troubleshooting.
rbargeron
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
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The real objective of the 40amp fuse is to protect the tractor's electronics from connecting a battery the wrong way (polarity reversed). Are you quite sure your battery cables are on the right posts?
Yes, all I did was connected two small jumper wires on the back side of the switch
I connected two small jumper wires on the back side of the switch to get it to start. Then removed them
To aid in troubleshooting you may wish to connect a twelve volt light bulb across a blown fuse and plug it in. The bulb will illuminate as long as the short exists but will limit current flow. When you get the bulb to go out you have probably found your short. Don't bother replacing the forty amp fuse until you've found the short.
If the IG switch is the only thing you rigged, then I would start with that. Exactly what pins did you jumper?
I was reading through my L3010 WSM to see if there is anything glaringly obvious. There wasn't any troubleshooting suggestions if the 40A slow-blow fuse continuously clears. Then I came across the attached statement.
While you didn't use a slave battery to start the machine, it's possible you damaged the regulating circuit inside the alternator when you removed the jumper because the ignition switch couldn't be on the "run" position. I would follow above advice and remove the alternator from the circuit and see if that does anything.
While you didn't use a slave battery to start the machine, it's possible you damaged the regulating circuit inside the alternator when you removed the jumper because the ignition switch couldn't be on the "run" position. I would follow above advice and remove the alternator from the circuit and see if that does anything.
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I tried disconnecting the alternator this evening and it still blew the fuse. Thanks for the help
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
process of elimination. can you remove power feed to the IG switch and see what happens ?
if no blow, then 'somehow' the IG switch is bad....(internally grounded ?? )
if no blow, then 'somehow' the IG switch is bad....(internally grounded ?? )
You will have some work cut out for you to further investigate. Locating faults is painfully unfun. I suggest a case of beer to assist you!
Please see attached L3010 wire system schematic. I've highlight your first checks that need to be made in green. You'll have to isolate these components and test wiring to make sure there are no faults. If none are found, then I can highlight all the "load side" wiring that needs to be looked at. I'd start testing with the starter/selonid first, then move on. Also, there could be an issue with your starter, starter relay, and glow plug relay. I wish you luck my friend.....
Please see attached L3010 wire system schematic. I've highlight your first checks that need to be made in green. You'll have to isolate these components and test wiring to make sure there are no faults. If none are found, then I can highlight all the "load side" wiring that needs to be looked at. I'd start testing with the starter/selonid first, then move on. Also, there could be an issue with your starter, starter relay, and glow plug relay. I wish you luck my friend.....
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Before you do anything else you need to stop replacing the 40A fuse, it takes a heckuva lot more than 40A to clear it and it's hard on everything involved.
Make a 'fake' fuse as suggested by Roadworthy in post #8.
Use something like an 1156 auto bulb, incandescent, not LED. an old headlight would be good but cumbersome.
Put some effort into making it, using alligator clips and duct tape may result in it falling apart at the wrong time and causing more damage.
Make a 'fake' fuse as suggested by Roadworthy in post #8.
Use something like an 1156 auto bulb, incandescent, not LED. an old headlight would be good but cumbersome.
Put some effort into making it, using alligator clips and duct tape may result in it falling apart at the wrong time and causing more damage.
I just replaced the IG and it still blew the fuse
the only time the fuse blows is when I go to start. Before that all the lights come on the dash