I have a kubota 1880 and I've been looking everywhere to find some video or info on how to install a block heater on my tractor. I couldn't find anything specific to my tractor but I found a bunch from others. In the video I found it shows the guy knocking out one of the tabs on the side of the engine that look exactly like the image I attached. He then tapped his block heater into the tab. As soon as I knocked out the tab green fluid flooded out. On top of that the block heater I bought doesn't even fit the whole. How screwed am I? Is there some product that will fill in this whole that I just created in my engine? Is this the correct place to place a block heater? Please help. I've got a ton of snow to remove and a non functioning tractor.
Block heater help
- Thread starter warpedghost
- Start date
It's called a freeze out plug. Measure the HOLE and tap a new one in using some sealant. It appears that the bolt head will interfere with the block heater at that location. The green liquid is anti-freeze, you need to replace what you lost before operating the tractor. The block heater you show is a threaded in type, I don't know if you have a threaded port in your engine. An auto parts store might have a freeze out plug.
Thank you so much lynnmor. The tap that is to the left of the one I knocked out, is that where I would put the block heater if I had one that fit?
Try going to the dealer and ask for a frost plug for your tractor. While you are at it ask for a block heater kit specific for your tractor. Ask the service person to make a house call to re-install your frost plug and block heater. In the future do not attempt machinery repairs. Stop using youtube. Throw away your cell phone. Stop buying mystery parts from Amazon and Flea-bay. Support local. Pay for good advice and service.
You will become much happier if you follow this advice.
You will become much happier if you follow this advice.
You could give Messicks or Coleman a call. I'd bet they would have all the info / parts you need.
sounds like you have little experience and can get yourself in big trouble. I would go to tractor supply or amazon and get a magnet heater and mount it on the side or under your oil pan and be done with it. you can just pull it off and do your job and put back on when done. I had mine plugged into a plug that is activated only when temp drops below somewhere near 35 degrees so it does not run all the time.
The block heater must be specific (size) to the tractor you have. Typically there is an interference fit adapter that is tapped in place of the freeze plug that has been removed. Then the block heater screws into the adapter. The location of the freeze plug you removed would not likely allow room to install a block heater, so it will need to be replaced and a more suitable location selected.
You can not operate your tractor as it sits, so have a mobile mechanic come out, install a new freeze plug, install the correct block heater and refill your cooling system with antifreeze. IF the level of antifreeze drops below the block heater, it will quickly burn out the element.
You can not operate your tractor as it sits, so have a mobile mechanic come out, install a new freeze plug, install the correct block heater and refill your cooling system with antifreeze. IF the level of antifreeze drops below the block heater, it will quickly burn out the element.
Thank you all. I am going to do as was suggested and have someone come out to fix the original problem and the new one I caused. Much appreciated.
Also, don't run the engine while the block heater is energized. Unplug from the wall receptacle before starting the engine.
Allegedly an air bubble can form around the element causing it to burn out prematurely. I haven't personally experienced a failure but I loop my cord through my shuttle shift guard and am "forced" to unplug it before starting.
Never heard that before... not sure if I believe it. However, I normally unplug mine so I don't kill myself tripping on the extension cord.
Would you believe it if I told you I reached out to Zerostart, based out of Eden Prairie Minnesota? They manufacture thermal electrical products for a wide variety of industries and they told me in an email "Running the engine with the heater plugged in will definitely cause a failure in short order." Thanks to all who planted a seed of doubt in my mind which prompted me to set the record straight on the misinformation that is floating around out there. Anyone desiring further verification can contact me via PM.
When I purchased my BX1880 last year I asked the dealer to install a freeze plug type block heater. They said no can do. Not enough room so I ended up with a hose type. Hardly enough room for that but they got it in. With this crazy warm winter I haven't needed to use it (yet)
It's not an "air bubble"! It is flow separation at the downstream side of the cylindrical heating element. the separated flow does not adequately transfer heat and the element locally heats up and burns out.
It is interesting because a lot of standby generators have block mount coolant heaters. My Mitsubishi powered 40 KW standby has a block heater and I added an oil pan heater also. Both are thermostatically controlled and I added a relay that kills power to them when the generator is running but I doubt if many people bother to do that.
Rodger
Rodger
If you visit KATS website,they explain that the heating element is prone to damage from vibration when the engine is started if the heater is still plugged in.
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You need 70000-00776 that's the right drive in block heater.
and 16851-96270 that's the right replacement cap.
and 16851-96270 that's the right replacement cap.