Bison rear blade

[jyoutz]

I’m looking for a rear blade for my MX6000. None of the Kubota dealers within reasonable distances have any Landpride heavy duty 7’ rear blades in stock. I’m wanting a blade with manual offset and tilt capability. One local Mahindra dealer is selling Bison blades. They have a heavy duty model with cat 2 pins with those capabilities weighing about 1000 pounds. Hp rating is 65-90 hp. My tractor is 60 hp. Is this too much blade for my tractor. I know the 3 point lift capacity is over 2300 pounds, but I’m wondering about pulling and cutting with this blade. Also, does anyone have any experience with the quality of these blades?

 

[UpNorthMI]

I would not worry about it being too much blade for your tractor, your MX will handle it just fine, the weight of the blade should really help the blade work well.

Sorry I do not have any experience with this brand but I do pull a large heavy box blade of a similar weightwith my MX which handles it very well.

Good luck with your projects.

 

[Fladogman]

The MX will handle it fine. I would suggest adding a hydraulic top link if you have rear remotes, it makes a huge difference on how well it works. I'm running a 7ft rhino on my MX and I'm well pleased on how well it works.

 

[jyoutz]

The MX will handle it fine. I would suggest adding a hydraulic top link if you have rear remotes, it makes a huge difference on how well it works. I'm running a 7ft rhino on my MX and I'm well pleased on how well it works.

Thanks. At this time I will use the blade manually because I don’t have a rear remote. Maybe in the future.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would highly recommend an 8 foot blade. When you start angling, the blade gets a lot narrower.
A 7 foot blade at a 45* angle is only going to cut about 60 inches wide, an 8 footer is about 67 inches.
I typically run my blade between 35* & 40*.

That's just me, but getting a straight blade to narrow seems to be common. People don't consider how much the cutting width changes when angled.

Bison makes a very good blade for a reasonable price.
I highly recommend getting the skid shoes for it also.

 

[UpNorthMI]

I see that Bison makes a range of rear blades, there was some criticism of their lighter models, the NVH as the 3 point mount frame was just flat strip, concern was bending. The heavier models have box section frames at the 3pt, which look sufficient. From the weight you are quoting you must be looking at the heavier models.

I really like the hydraulic controls that they offer on these blades. I have ended up fitting 2 sets of rear remotes on 2 of my tractors and 1 set on the other. You really do need rear remotes in my opinion, if you are getting them added, go for 2 sets, I've been back several times for the second sets!

 

[jyoutz]

I would highly recommend an 8 foot blade. When you start angling, the blade gets a lot narrower.
A 7 foot blade at a 45* angle is only going to cut about 60 inches wide, an 8 footer is about 67 inches.
I typically run my blade between 35* & 40*.

That's just me, but getting a straight blade to narrow seems to be common. People don't consider how much the cutting width changes when angled.

Bison makes a very good blade for a reasonable price.
I highly recommend getting the skid shoes for it also.

I was considering an 8 foot blade, but I do like to spin the blade 180 degrees to plow snow without destroying my gravel. I thought that 7’ is the longest that can be rotated while attached. If an 8 foot can do that, I’ll consider it. But also consider that I won’t buy any blade that doesn’t offset. So the offset does make up somewhat for angling.

 

[jyoutz]

I see that Bison makes a range of rear blades, there was some criticism of their lighter models, the NVH as the 3 point mount frame was just flat strip, concern was bending. The heavier models have box section frames at the 3pt, which look sufficient. From the weight you are quoting you must be looking at the heavier models.

I really like the hydraulic controls that they offer on these blades. I have ended up fitting 2 sets of rear remotes on 2 of my tractors and 1 set on the other. You really do need rear remotes in my opinion, if you are getting them added, go for 2 sets, I've been back several times for the second sets!

View attachment 70912

Yeah, I am looking a the heavier duty series that averages 1,000 pounds weight with cat 2 pins. The 3 point frame is better designed on the heavy blades.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I can spin my 9 footer 360*.
Even the 8' blue blade will spin 360* as long as the boom is straight back and not offset.
You just need to get the right blade.

 

[Dustyx2]

I was considering an 8 foot blade, but I do like to spin the blade 180 degrees to plow snow without destroying my gravel. I thought that 7’ is the longest that can be rotated while attached. If an 8 foot can do that, I’ll consider it. But also consider that I won’t buy any blade that doesn’t offset. So the offset does make up somewhat for angling.

I have a Bison NVHL-300-XHD 10' blade and I can turn it around to back drag, so I would surely think they would have a 8' be able to. I had a Frontier 8' blade before this Bison and it would turn around too.

 

[jyoutz]

I have a Bison NVHL-300-XHD 10' blade and I can turn it around to back drag, so I would surely think they would have a 8' be able to. I had a Frontier 8' blade before this Bison and it would turn around too.

Great. I’m going to go look at it this week and get the 8’ blade if it can be rotated. How do you like your Bison blade?

 

[Dustyx2]

Great. I’m going to go look at it this week and get the 8’ blade if it can be rotated. How do you like your Bison blade?

My only complaints about mine have to do with leaking hydraulic cylinders and the design of the tail wheel. I believe neither of those options you are getting. I bought it in 2011. It's beast at 1600 lbs. That weight doesn't include the tail wheel assembly. This is their heaviest duty model so not like what you are looking at. It seems to be well made. All the welding looks good.

 

[jyoutz]

My only complaints about mine have to do with leaking hydraulic cylinders and the design of the tail wheel. I believe neither of those options you are getting. I bought it in 2011. It's beast at 1600 lbs. That weight doesn't include the tail wheel assembly. This is their heaviest duty model so not like what you are looking at. It seems to be well made. All the welding looks good.

Good to hear. The version I’m looking at weighs 1000 pounds and is set up for hydraulics, but can also be used manually. For my use, manual operation is fine. I’m not planning to get a tail wheel.

 

[Dustyx2]

Good to hear. The version I’m looking at weighs 1000 pounds and is set up for hydraulics, but can also be used manually. For my use, manual operation is fine. I’m not planning to get a tail wheel.

A tail wheel is very valuable addition to a blade. I made one for the Frontier blade and got the Bison with it. I just need to do some modification to it. It's like it was meant for a smaller blade. A little too short and the swivel at the wheels is not vertical when it's down. Works, but could be better. I never remember to get the steel for it when at the steel supply store.

 

[jyoutz]

A tail wheel is very valuable addition to a blade. I made one for the Frontier blade and got the Bison with it. I just need to do some modification to it. It's like it was meant for a smaller blade. A little too short and the swivel at the wheels is not vertical when it's down. Works, but could be better. I never remember to get the steel for it when at the steel supply store.

The reason I’m not thinking about a tail wheel is I maintain about 2000’ of gravel road, both grading gravel and plowing snow. I like to turn the moldboard 180 degrees for plowing snow and for finishing the gravel. Can I do that with a tail wheel?

 

[Dustyx2]

The reason I’m not thinking about a tail wheel is I maintain about 2000’ of gravel road, both grading gravel and plowing snow. I like to turn the moldboard 180 degrees for plowing snow and for finishing the gravel. Can I do that with a tail wheel?

You can, but it has to be raised all the way. Mine is hydraulic so it's easy. If it were manual, it would be a bit of a chore. I maintain about 3/4 mile of gravel that is 16 to 20' wide. I cut it and spread with the blade forward and the tail wheel is a big help. Then to finish it, I turn the blade around and back drag to pack and get rid of any windrow left when spreading. I don't use the tail wheel with the blade reversed. I'm not sure I would want a manual tail wheel for the road as I have a couple of hills where it needs adjusted to do a good job. I have used the blade reversed a few times for wet snow, but prefer to blow the snow due to drifting issues.

 

[jyoutz]

You can, but it has to be raised all the way. Mine is hydraulic so it's easy. If it were manual, it would be a bit of a chore. I maintain about 3/4 mile of gravel that is 16 to 20' wide. I cut it and spread with the blade forward and the tail wheel is a big help. Then to finish it, I turn the blade around and back drag to pack and get rid of any windrow left when spreading. I don't use the tail wheel with the blade reversed. I'm not sure I would want a manual tail wheel for the road as I have a couple of hills where it needs adjusted to do a good job. I have used the blade reversed a few times for wet snow, but prefer to blow the snow due to drifting issues.

Is the tail wheel easily removable manually when I reverse the blade? My hills are gradual enough that I think I could manually set the wheel and do the forward cutting without needing to adjust.

 

[Dustyx2]

I would assume it will have a ratcheting turnbuckle, so it would have to be hand cranked all the way up if you were to leave it on. To take the whole thing off you would pull the pin on the turnbuckle and on the boom where it mounts to the back of the blade and with the wheel on, wheel it away. It will want to fall over so you have to manage that. Kind of awkward but not horrible.

You might want to start out without the tail wheel and see how it goes. Most people don't have them and get along. To me, they don't know what they're missing.

 

[jyoutz]

I would assume it will have a ratcheting turnbuckle, so it would have to be hand cranked all the way up if you were to leave it on. To take the whole thing off you would pull the pin on the turnbuckle and on the boom where it mounts to the back of the blade and with the wheel on, wheel it away. It will want to fall over so you have to manage that. Kind of awkward but not horrible.

You might want to start out without the tail wheel and see how it goes. Most people don't have them and get along. To me, they don't know what they're missing.

Thanks again. I can always order a wheel if I decide that I want one. I’m going to get the blade next week and see how it goes.

 

[jyoutz]

I would assume it will have a ratcheting turnbuckle, so it would have to be hand cranked all the way up if you were to leave it on. To take the whole thing off you would pull the pin on the turnbuckle and on the boom where it mounts to the back of the blade and with the wheel on, wheel it away. It will want to fall over so you have to manage that. Kind of awkward but not horrible.

You might want to start out without the tail wheel and see how it goes. Most people don't have them and get along. To me, they don't know what they're missing.

Thanks again. I can always order a wheel if I decide that I want one.