Since reading some of the posts here about trailering your tractor, I have been going over how I strap my tractor to my trailer. I first realized I was not using Grade 70 chains nor using binders with a high enough working load limit. So now I am considering purchasing new grade 70 chains and binders or going with appropriately rated ratchet straps (at least 3 inches wide). I would like to get your feedback as to what you use to strap your tractor to your trailer and if there are advantages of one over the other. Thank you.
Binders and Chains or Ratchet Straps
- Thread starter Ridger
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I personally like 10'000 lb straps, less chances of paint damage.
I also like the way I can set them up and tighten them down.
Do check with your States DOT as some states have laws that specify the type of rigging required and how many.
I also like the way I can set them up and tighten them down.
Do check with your States DOT as some states have laws that specify the type of rigging required and how many.
Honestly, if you own a 10-35,000 tractor, spend the money on binders and chains. Straps wear out, cut, weather.
A 3000 pound machine bouncing on a trailer at 60 mph causes a lot of energy. Ive seen garden tractors with ratchet straps wiggled loose or cut and flapping like a caution flag behind them. Ive also seen a 5800 pound skid steer riding down the Northway at 70 with nothing holding it to the trailer. DOT loves that...
A 3000 pound machine bouncing on a trailer at 60 mph causes a lot of energy. Ive seen garden tractors with ratchet straps wiggled loose or cut and flapping like a caution flag behind them. Ive also seen a 5800 pound skid steer riding down the Northway at 70 with nothing holding it to the trailer. DOT loves that...
Chains and binders used here. Careful use of straps can work but with chains there are no worries about cut straps from abrasion problems.
The same chains are handy for many other uses also.
If your hauling your tractor a lot and it does not have a easy place to hook your choice of tie downs then spend a bit of time and rig it so that it does.
Be sure to get a combination winch bar for the binder handles. Makes binder use safer and less strain. Their usually less than $30 and well worth it !
The same chains are handy for many other uses also.
If your hauling your tractor a lot and it does not have a easy place to hook your choice of tie downs then spend a bit of time and rig it so that it does.
Be sure to get a combination winch bar for the binder handles. Makes binder use safer and less strain. Their usually less than $30 and well worth it !
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I would not recommend to use a winch to secure a load. A winch is designed for pulling. The use of a winch for securing can and will damage a winch. Chains and binders are cheaper than replacing a winch. 5/16" chain is common in the transportation industry and can be had relatively cheap if you shop around. 1/4" is available and is easier to handle and store if you want to spend the money as it is more than 5/16". If you are trailering you equipment on regular basis you can install attachment points such as D rings to make it easier to tie it down. Quality chains if taken care of are a lifetime investment, I cannot say the same for straps. Bear in mind that if the chain marking is illegible or the tag is missing from the strap the law enforcement people will use the lowest rating in their book which can be an issue. Also think about the safety chains on your trailer which are required. They are required to be equal or greater than the trailer and the load. The difference between the load securement chains is the working load limit is used for securement and the breaking strength is used for the safety chains. Breaking strength is 3 times the WLL. Load securement is required to be 50% greater than the load. 1000 lb load needs 1500 of chains. Wheeled loads require cross chaining to prevent chain breaking as it allows movement. 2 chains diagonally at front and 2 chains diagonally at rear.
I've never hauled my tractor yet, but I have hauled cars and trucks.
I use grade 70 chains crossed in the rear with load binders and proper binder retainer clips. I used nylon ratchet tie downs crossed on the front.
My reasoning is the massive potential for a forward load under extreme braking, or a collision puts the chains to work. The straps are there to add tension to the chains so there isn't any play, basically a preload. Acceleration forces will never equal braking forces.
I use grade 70 chains crossed in the rear with load binders and proper binder retainer clips. I used nylon ratchet tie downs crossed on the front.
My reasoning is the massive potential for a forward load under extreme braking, or a collision puts the chains to work. The straps are there to add tension to the chains so there isn't any play, basically a preload. Acceleration forces will never equal braking forces.
always use the basic X pattern when binding your equipment down, and it wont move on you, meaning 1 binder for each corner, the reasoning behind that is if one binder ever comes loose you still have the one on the adjacent corner holding it, also making sure binders or chains are secured to trailer against any forward or rearward movement.
dot regs also require any attachment to be lowered to deck and properly secured, usually on this smaller equipment one strap or chain over the loader bucket, and if have any thing on the rear, like a back hoe or mower would require 1 binder also.....hope this helps. be safe
dot regs also require any attachment to be lowered to deck and properly secured, usually on this smaller equipment one strap or chain over the loader bucket, and if have any thing on the rear, like a back hoe or mower would require 1 binder also.....hope this helps. be safe
let me clear that up for you..
i do diagonal 3" straps (4 ways) as my tie downs/anchors... on 6,000lb d-rings & then use the 10,000lb winch as a safety chain.
if a 1,100lb tractor breaks loose from those & a 10,000lb winch? i'll have more problems to worry about then replacing the winch...
as stated: if its something heavy... we use chain binders.
Yotekiller
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L2502, LP 60" BB, LP pallet forks, 60" KK Tiller, 55" HSI root grapple
I use chains and binders. I have seen straps loosen up and come free and also seen them getting cut and failing. My dealer delivered mine with chains and they move a LOT of tractors so that told me something right there....
I prefer chains and ratchet binders. I'll use a ratchet strap for very lightweight stuff, UTVs, ATVs, small lawn tractors. Anything bigger, even a SCUT, I'll use chains if I can.
Whatever you use, I always recommend checking them after driving a bit. It's not uncommon at all for something to settle or reposition a bit and create a bit of slack while traveling.
Whatever you use, I always recommend checking them after driving a bit. It's not uncommon at all for something to settle or reposition a bit and create a bit of slack while traveling.
I use self-contained 3 inch ratchet straps in a diagonal pattern from USA Ratchet. I don’t tow/transport very often but, haven’t had any issues or straps coming loose.
Mike
Mike
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
If the OP has not decided yet , after 8 years, here is my .02 
I originally used straps due to the "paint scratching" thing.
However after I made some tie down points for the General Lee, I switched to chains. They just feel more secure; Although I never really felt "unsecure" with the straps.
My binders are the kind that ratchet closed, but the handle folds down instead of sticking out normal to the long axis of the binder .
I originally used straps due to the "paint scratching" thing.
However after I made some tie down points for the General Lee, I switched to chains. They just feel more secure; Although I never really felt "unsecure" with the straps.
My binders are the kind that ratchet closed, but the handle folds down instead of sticking out normal to the long axis of the binder .
I used chains and binders once on my MX5100. It was solidly secure, but I didn’t like the paint chipping. Second trip I used 3” straps. The tractor didn’t move and there was no paint chipping. Ratchet straps were, quicker, easier and lighter. For me the only downside is spooling and securing the tail. Not really a big deal if you go through the loader tube and a clevis. If you use 4 then you have to wrap or cut.
You can add tie down points to the tractor to prevent scratching. My tractor has only been on a trailer once since I bought it for delivery. I believe they used straps.
There are a lot of really crappy straps with hard to use ratchets. However, many of the loads you see on tractor trailers are secured with straps. Also, based on how many straps you see on the side of the road, many people don't know how to properly use those crappy ones. At least, those are the ones I typically see on the side of the road.
I have some wide extremely strong straps that I wouldn't hesitate to use. However, I don't have a trailer that has enough capacity to haul mine and have no trips planned.
There are a lot of really crappy straps with hard to use ratchets. However, many of the loads you see on tractor trailers are secured with straps. Also, based on how many straps you see on the side of the road, many people don't know how to properly use those crappy ones. At least, those are the ones I typically see on the side of the road.
I have some wide extremely strong straps that I wouldn't hesitate to use. However, I don't have a trailer that has enough capacity to haul mine and have no trips planned.
I initially bought wide heavy straps and for most of my travel (short distance) it was either car haul with wheel nets (some multi state) and just BX and or the B tractor short distance across town….no issues… all good. Car much easier than a tractor and implements to strap down with out worry of wrapping over an edge.
once I started traveling 4 hrs one way with the B and MX, way more wear, and eventually (absolutely operator error) …and during transit it snapped. Less than ideal. I used way more straps than needed so no issue…but it’s a bad feeling when you see a strap snapped. I stopped using straps to secure the machine (tractor and implements) though.
point there is it depends on what hauling and how far…if strap runs over an edge of something and there is vibration(there will be), it’s a matter of time. Either need to inspect and replace, be very vigilant about how run the strap, or hope for best…hope is not a strategy. Touch up paint cheaper and safer than a strap IMO
once I started traveling 4 hrs one way with the B and MX, way more wear, and eventually (absolutely operator error) …and during transit it snapped. Less than ideal. I used way more straps than needed so no issue…but it’s a bad feeling when you see a strap snapped. I stopped using straps to secure the machine (tractor and implements) though.
point there is it depends on what hauling and how far…if strap runs over an edge of something and there is vibration(there will be), it’s a matter of time. Either need to inspect and replace, be very vigilant about how run the strap, or hope for best…hope is not a strategy. Touch up paint cheaper and safer than a strap IMO
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
I use chains and ratchet binders for the tractor. Strap(s) to meet legal requirements for the implements. Already had chains for rigging for tree felling, skidding, etc. so binders were only thing needed to buy. I don’t haul other people’s stuff and I can accept a few isolated chain marks, but I can’t accept a cut strap. If I was starting with nothing and putting together a tie down setup, not sure which way I’d go. Both work if done correctly.
I think commercial guys use chains because they're more durable. Straps wear out over time. For occasional use that's not a problem. Both work if used properly.
I personally use straps, and I have big d-rings that I put on the hitch and under the chassis at the front, easy to run the straps through them. Straps over the chassis had too many places to rub and chafe.
If I owned chains I'd use them, and probably be happier. But they'd be harder to tie down to my trailer. If I was buying a better transport trailer it'd have tie down points on the deck, and chains would work brilliantly then.
I personally use straps, and I have big d-rings that I put on the hitch and under the chassis at the front, easy to run the straps through them. Straps over the chassis had too many places to rub and chafe.
If I owned chains I'd use them, and probably be happier. But they'd be harder to tie down to my trailer. If I was buying a better transport trailer it'd have tie down points on the deck, and chains would work brilliantly then.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I would like to add that I got 3/8" chain and binders and I wish I had gone with 5/16".
The 3/8 stuff is way overkill and heavy.
The 3/8 stuff is way overkill and heavy.