Big Tex trailer

[Seane1987]

It never ceases to amaze me how time and energy people waste on the internet arguing over trailer weight ratings and procedures in threads where it wasn't really the question to begin with

 

[mcmxi]

Just tossing my $0.02 in for fun.....
My LX2610HST 60" bucket on the loader, 3rd function 2 rear remotes quick hitch and the large 15-19.5 R4 tires loaded with RimGuard (Beet juice). weights 3550 pounds wet (full of fuel no operator).
I tow it with a 16' Wolverine Aluminum flatbed 7k rates brakes on both axles 1120 pounds empty.
Never have had an issue hauling the tractor or any of the cars. Yes it would be nice to have a longer trailer. But I store it indoors and the spot I keep it an 18' would stick out of the place. Plus everything I need to haul fits on the 14' long deck. Best part is the fenders are low enough that the car doors can be opened over the top of them....

Are you attending a tractor drag racing meet in that photo?

 

[GeoHorn]

what…? Tractor-Drag..?

Is this where a tractor dresses up as a plow and turns everything completely Over…??

 

[mcmxi]

Well, I was excited to have scored this Big Tex car hauler last week to haul my upcoming LX2610. It’s a 7k, 20’ w/ the dovetail. Upon further inspection, I’m not so sure about it. Very flexy/flimsy, to the point I’m questioning how it will handle a tractor going on and off and transporting. Does anyone else have one of these trailers? Could be a case of overthinking. Looking at the construction of it, I can see why it has so much movement. I just sold a 25 year old 16’ trailer that was more solid than this. Recouping money wouldnt be a problem, I can probably make money on it.
View attachment 104490

If you sell this one, what would you replace it with? It would be interesting to see how the materials and construction differs from other brands. According to the spec sheet, the frame and cross members are angle rather than C-channel. Angle is going to twist a lot more easily than C-channel of the same thickness.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have a PJ 20' 7.5k capacity, it weighs 1995 lbs.
It hauls my L and implements quite fine.
Hauls my Bobcat too.
Its all good, because you're pulling it with a Ford so your chances of the truck breaking before the trailer are quite high!

 

[mcmxi]

I have a PJ 20' 7.5k capacity, it weighs 1995 lbs.
It hauls my L and implements quite fine.
Hauls my Bobcat too.
Its all good, because you're pulling it with a Ford so your chances of the truck breaking before the trailer are quite high!

The 7,000lb PJ carhaulers have either 4" or 5" channel tongues and frames and 3" channel cross members. The weights are comparable to the Big Tex at around 2,000lb to 2,200lb for a 20 ft trailer.

My 2002 F250 is doing well still. I just pulled the new deck over trailer about 130 miles to Eureka and back this afternoon on a pipe run. The truck and trailer did fine.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The 7,000lb PJ carhaulers have either 4" or 5" channel tongues and frames and 3" channel cross members. The weights are comparable to the Big Tex at around 2,000lb to 2,200lb for a 20 ft trailer.

My 2002 F250 is doing well still. I just pulled the new deck over trailer about 130 miles to Eureka and back this afternoon on a pipe run. The truck and trailer did fine.

View attachment 104519

I'll hold my comments on the truck!
Seriously a good reliable truck it invaluable no mater who makes it!
I still like your other one way better!
And that is a mighty fine trailer!
I need one like that!
Mine has side rails can be quite the pain!
We're having a big BBQ camp over on the 3rd and 4th if you don't have plans come on over!

How much did the drill steel run ya, I need some of that!

 

[mcmxi]

I'll hold my comments on the truck!
That is a mighty fine trailer!
I need one like that!

How much did the drill steel run ya, I need some of that!

No worries! Thanks. It's an hydraulic tilt model and the lack of fenders made this the perfect choice for loading pipe on with a forklift. I paid $108 total for the ten pieces of 4" Sch. 40 shown which are close to 21 ft in length. Wall thickness is around 1/4" and they're galvanized which is a bonus. I'll be using them for a shed build.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I paid $108 total for the ten pieces of 4" Sch. 40 shown which are close to 21 ft in length. Wall thickness is around 1/4" and they're galvanized which is a bonus. I'll be using them for a shed build.

That is an excellent price!

Can you deliver!

 

[mcmxi]

That is an excellent price!

Can you deliver!

Sure! I missed out on so many great deals last weekend due to the Mickey Mouse bidding process that the auction used. Some floor bidder bought $100k worth of steel for $10k or less. Steel was going for prices that were a 1/4 of the scrap value.

I just mailed of a deposit for some 3/16" plate that I'll be using to repair the deck of the PJ dump trailer that a friend ruined. I had to buy that at Craigslist prices which were $0.85/lb. Not bad given current prices but nothing like the deals that were flying out the door in Eureka this past weekend.

 

[GrizBota]

Well Big Tex trailers are manufactured to a price point. Typically a low one. Indeed you don’t need “a lot” of steel to have a good trailer, but you sure as heck need enough steel in the right configuration and in the right places and connected well to have a good trailer. Someone mentioned Big Tex uses angle for the frame, that right there is a mark of a cheap trailer, in my opinion (not asking anyone to agree with me). At a minimum, a good 7k trailer should have at least a 5 inch deep channel for the rails and at least 2 inch (3 inch is better) 1/4 inch or thicker angle at 16 or 24 inches for the cross members. The deck ought to be 2x with at least two screws per board (at every cross member). The tongue should have four members from the frame to the couple, all at least 5 inches deep, some 1/4 or 3/8 think rectangular box tube is nice, but channel is fine. There are other ways to make a good trailer, but this is certainly one of them. And it can all be done at about 2000 lbs for a 16’ long feet, 5’ tongue and full 8’-6” legal width.

An easy tell between a cheap trailer and a good one is often the electrical. Are the wires running though holes in the cross members that were burned with a torch? Are Scotch locks used? Are the wires not run in a sheath? Are the wires hanging down? Do the tail lights look like Goofy mounted them and selected the location they were most likely to be damaged? Yes to any of those and the rest of the trailer build probably matches.

 

[SteveBX23]

I have a PJ 20' 7.5k capacity, it weighs 1995 lbs.
It hauls my L and implements quite fine.
Hauls my Bobcat too.
Its all good, because you're pulling it with a Ford so your chances of the truck breaking before the trailer are quite high!

Shots fired. My Ford has 205k on original motor and trans, so what was your point again?

 

[SteveBX23]

Well Big Tex trailers are manufactured to a price point. Typically a low one. Indeed you don’t need “a lot” of steel to have a good trailer, but you sure as heck need enough steel in the right configuration and in the right places and connected well to have a good trailer. Someone mentioned Big Tex uses angle for the frame, that right there is a mark of a cheap trailer, in my opinion (not asking anyone to agree with me). At a minimum, a good 7k trailer should have at least a 5 inch deep channel for the rails and at least 2 inch (3 inch is better) 1/4 inch or thicker angle at 16 or 24 inches for the cross members. The deck ought to be 2x with at least two screws per board (at every cross member). The tongue should have four members from the frame to the couple, all at least 5 inches deep, some 1/4 or 3/8 think rectangular box tube is nice, but channel is fine. There are other ways to make a good trailer, but this is certainly one of them. And it can all be done at about 2000 lbs for a 16’ long feet, 5’ tongue and full 8’-6” legal width.

An easy tell between a cheap trailer and a good one is often the electrical. Are the wires running though holes in the cross members that were burned with a torch? Are Scotch locks used? Are the wires not run in a sheath? Are the wires hanging down? Do the tail lights look like Goofy mounted them and selected the location they were most likely to be damaged? Yes to any of those and the rest of the trailer build probably matches.

And that’s what I appear to be dealing with here. I’ve got some short term dire needs for it, so depending on timing, I’ll probably off load it before or after that time frame and move on. Definitely disappointing seeing how flimsy this thing is, although it’s basically brand new. Shouldn’t be hard to sell, think most dealerships are backordered on them locally

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I have no idea about PJ quality, but I sure wish I had bought a 20 footer. (bought trailer Pre-Kubota)

There is no way I can get my tractor, loader and rotary cutter on board my 16'.

Since my TLB weighs in at 5k, I would opt for a 10k just so I wasn't maxing it out all the time.

I would also not get rails again.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Loading trailers properly is a 'Real Life TETRIS' game. When you get it right, take pictures !! That way, next time it won't take you 2 hours to load up and go.
RWS... can you place RC up front, then drive tractor on, so loader is above the RC ?? I know, one of those 'gotta be there' deals......

 

[Sparky Prep]

What model do you have? Just curious

I have a 70PI-14 tandem axle utility trailer. Rated for 5220# payload. I use it to haul my side by side, camping gear, atv, plus other farm stuff. I wouldn't load my tractor on it, though.

 

[Tughill Tom]

I looked at Big Tex when I bought my 18ft 10K trailer and Surtrac trailers at the same dealer. I took the Surtac home with me. Better welds, boxed frame, enclosed wiring looms. Just a better-quality trailer overall.
It also tows like an arrow at 70 mph.

 

[GrizBota]

And that’s what I appear to be dealing with here. I’ve got some short term dire needs for it, so depending on timing, I’ll probably off load it before or after that time frame and move on. Definitely disappointing seeing how flimsy this thing is, although it’s basically brand new. Shouldn’t be hard to sell, think most dealerships are backordered on them locally

In the mean time for about $30 you can get a bag of trailer deck screws and screw down every board in two places at each cross member since Big Tex saved themselves the hassle. That will stiffen up the deck in the horizontal plane if the deck. But the frame will still be a noodle.

You do have to predrill the 1/4” screws pictured below with a 7/32” bit. The screws have a self tapper lead, but need a hole about the size of the root of the screw to go into.

 

[SteveBX23]

In the mean time for about $30 you can get a bag of trailer deck screws and screw down every board in two places at each cross member since Big Tex saved themselves the hassle. That will stiffen up the deck in the horizontal plane if the deck. But the frame will still be a noodle.

You do have to predrill the 1/4” screws pictured below with a 7/32” bit. The screws have a self tapper lead, but need a hole about the size of the root of the screw to go into.
View attachment 104551

Hey, the first cross member has 2! Rest are 1 per board, got to love it…

 

[GrizBota]

Hey, the first cross member has 2! Rest are 1 per board, got to love it…

I’m really surprised at that. BT actually screwed each board to each and every cross member? The front and rear of each board aren’t just tucked under a piece of 3/16” thick flat stock that is tack welded to the end structural members?Impressive.

For the boards with one screw, add one in each side of that screw about 1.25” to 1.5” inset from the edge of the board.