Better Back Blade Performance..? Straight or Tilted.? See Pics.

[Drifthopper]

How can I set up this back blade for better scraping..?

It works ....... ok.... but skids / bounces over a lot of mud/dirt/gravel, then I'm having to go back & forth, back & forth....etc...

Is it better to have it tilted downward / tilted forward...?

Or.... have it straight up and down..?

I'm sure the edge on the bottom blade is dull / worn, but I'm hoping with the correct set up / correct angle it will move more dirt then what it was moving the way i had it last weekend.

 

[Drifthopper]

Pictures added.

 

[Dieseldonato]

Should be leaned a lot harder then what your showing for effective cutting.

 

[OrangeKrush]

Looks like it might be too light, do you have any suitcase weights you could put on it?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

need at least 15-20* angle(tilt) on the blade's cutting edge....

you can reverse the cutting bar on most blades . Remove 6-8 bolts,flip it over, reattach. After that you spend an hour grinding a sharp edge onto it.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Down in front to cut, and if the cutting edge is shot get a new cutting edge!

 

[NCL4701]

I have a no name back blade that looks fairly similar to that in weight (very light). It’s good for loose stuff like snow, gravel that isn’t hard packed, etc. On hard packed gravel road and dry red clay it just bounces and scuffs it up a little. Three things:

1) Try lengthening the top link some more. If it ever bites, there’s a chance it will dig if it’s angled to head down instead of relying solely on the weight of the implement.

2) As others suggested, if you can add some weight, add some weight. Lack of weight is a big problem if you’re trying to grade hard packed anything.

3) If you can loosen whatever you’re grading before using the blade, do it. Something with some weight and preferably rippers (boxblade, land plane, etc.) to bust up the soil so your blade can move it. The blade is better at windrowing material than the boxblade so it certainly has its uses, but anything other than snow or loose gravel I have to bust up with the boxblade first.

 

[jimh406]

I don’t think it will make that much difference because you have a small light blade. But, I’d just say that my heavier one is kind of a pain to use because it cuts too much most of the time.

I don’t think it’s really a bad thing to cut too little while you are learning to use the blade. You’ll have less of a mess to clean up.

 

[Lh2451]

The angle will cut while the straight will scrape. Find some weight to add to blade.

 

[mcfarmall]

When the main frame of the attachment is level, the cutting edge has a slight positive rake angle relative to the forward travel of the tractor. If you shorten the top link, to the point where the cutting edge is perpendicular to the ground, you have a zero rake angle. If you continue to shorten the top link so that the cutting edge tilts toward the forward travel of the tractor, you have created a negative rake angle.

If you extend the top link to its extreme, you will create a higher positive rake angle that will give maximum cutting action in the forward direction and the least cutting effect traveling in reverse.

When I plow snow with my scraper blade, I want as little cutting action forward or reverse so I shorten the top link to get the cutting edge of the blade to near 90⁰ to the direction of travel.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I had another look and... hm....WHAT is that 'mess of mass' at the bottom pivot, behind the blade ?? Whatever it is it's been dragged along. There should be 3-6" of clear space between bottom of blade and the 'pivot post'.
while it is a light duty blade, with the right cutting angle it should dig in and move material. yes, weight will help for sure

 

[Drifthopper]

I had another look and... hm....WHAT is that 'mess of mass' at the bottom pivot, behind the blade ?? Whatever it is it's been dragged along. There should be 3-6" of clear space between bottom of blade and the 'pivot post'.
while it is a light duty blade, with the right cutting angle it should dig in and move material. yes, weight will help for sure

That "mass" is added weight. It's a solid steel cylinder about the size of a gallon paint can.
I have a 2nd one I can add / chain on there.
I have suit case weights too. Just have to figure out how to keep them from falling off.
I'll try a different top link, a shorter one, to get more of an angle
And I'll flip the bottom edge.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

All the 'mass' needs to be on the top of the blade, not dragged along the bottom....
.. and 'spread out' over the width of the blade.

 

[OrangeKrush]

All the 'mass' needs to be on the top of the blade, not dragged along the bottom....
.. and 'spread out' over the width of the blade.

Yep my suitcase weights fit perfect, kind of hard to get off without a rubber mallet. My blades heavy enough for about anything I need but those weights were just for ballast for loader and forks.

 

[Russell King]

I'll try a different top link, a shorter one, to get more of an angle
And I'll flip the bottom edge.

Not a shorter top link

You want the bottom edge to be in front of the top edge like a plow

 

[GreensvilleJay]

OK,
those weights would come off for me,then 1/2 hour later wonder WHERE they were... buried under 1/2 mile of real nice looking driveway........

 

[JohnDB]

These people make some pretty good gear, and the principles are the same on your blade as on their $1m grader:

To get fig 1 penetration requires weight (lots depending on hardness of ground). Transition from 1 to 2 on the fly would need a hydraulic top link. So mostly people operate with the blade at fig 2.

Some of this is applicable to back blade operation too:

How to Use Motor Graders to Build Better Roads

Motor grader operators who maintain roads can take full advantage of all the machine's features.

www.constructionequipment.com

.

An under-appreciated item for keeping your gravel surface in good shape once you've got the profile you want and reasonably well compacted is a z-broom or drag broom. Brief regular use of that means less heavy use of the blade.

 

[Dieseldonato]

Most people don't actually grade gravel roads right. They need a crown or at least to have a slight slop to one side or the other. Same way an actual road is done. Standing water is the hardest thing on a gravel road. It needs an easy and gental way to run off. Most would last a lot longer with some sort of stabilization, depending on type of material used for the base the simple addition of lime, or Portland cement mixed in with the aggregate and properly packed will make a gravel road/lane last for a lot longer and be more resilient to washout or formation of pot holes. Most often over look good compaction of the aggregate as well. I fall into this category as well. I have access to a small roller but seldom think of arranging to pick it up so I can use it. Even a good heavy yard roller would work for most. You'd be amazed to see 6" of 2A modified turn into 3.5" after its been packed. Mix in a little Portland cement and mix it in, compact and it's darn near as good as a road.

 

[Drifthopper]

Not a shorter top link

You want the bottom edge to be in front of the top edge like a plow

RK.... so you are saying a longer top link, to get the frame of the blade up more then levelzs

These people make some pretty good gear, and the principles are the same on your blade as on their $1m grader:
View attachment 79530
To get fig 1 penetration requires weight (lots depending on hardness of ground). Transition from 1 to 2 on the fly would need a hydraulic top link. So mostly people operate with the blade at fig 2.

Some of this is applicable to back blade operation too:

How to Use Motor Graders to Build Better Roads

Motor grader operators who maintain roads can take full advantage of all the machine's features.

www.constructionequipment.com

.

An under-appreciated item for keeping your gravel surface in good shape once you've got the profile you want and reasonably well compacted is a z-broom or drag broom. Brief regular use of that means less heavy use of the blade.

John..... Thanks for the info..!!!

 

[mikester]

1. A hydraulic top link will make life easier and more enjoyable
2. Adding a gauge wheel(s) to the back of the blade will give you very good control and make you very happy
3. I welded wings on the sides of my blade sort of like a modified box blade, works great for spreading fine gravel and minimizing the humps spilling from the sides of the blade