Best way to spread top soil

GreensvilleJay

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you want them alternating so they 'fight' each other ...keeps the builtup beam from warping or twisting or curling or whatever the correct term is for when wood goes 'wonky'......
The kid was great at explaining stuff...wished I remembered 1% of what he talked about.He was upset one day when the 20x40 post and beam 'shed' was off 1/8" in 40 friggin feet......

I go through lots of 3" 'deck screws' building up beams.....most you'll never see.....

I used Hagrid's method to clear out 2 streams one year, 1/4 mile total. lotsa sticks,cord and caps,great fun....
 

racerboy

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B2601
May 10, 2021
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Got my dolly finished today. Well, almost finished. I want to add one more caster to the short section where the bucket goes. I’m hoping to try it out tomorrow. I was going to try it today but one of the grim joints on my left backhoe joystick somehow came undone. I have to fix that so I can extend the backhoe arm.
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racerboy

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I need to shave about 1/4” off the wider end that goes under the stabilizers. I tried useing a hand plane/rasp but didn’t get very far. Can I use and electric hand held planer to cut across the three 2x6 bolted together?
 

dirtydeed

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I need to shave about 1/4” off the wider end that goes under the stabilizers. I tried useing a hand plane/rasp but didn’t get very far. Can I use and electric hand held planer to cut across the three 2x6 bolted together?
???? Sure, you could. But a sawzall would be lots faster. ;)

and a chainsaw faster than the sawzall


honestly, I see guys make these things but have to wonder how careful they have to be when setting the bucket down on the one end. You have to put down pressure on the boom/bucket in order to lift the rear of the tractor slightly in order to get the pins out. If that down pressure is just past the wheels, it will lift up on the front of your cradle.
 
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Russell King

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I need to shave about 1/4” off the wider end that goes under the stabilizers. I tried useing a hand plane/rasp but didn’t get very far. Can I use and electric hand held planer to cut across the three 2x6 bolted together?
you will probably be better off using a belt sander than a planer if you’re going across the edges.

use rough sanding belts at first and it will go pretty fast.

you can probably rent the belt sander if you don’t own one
 
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top gnome

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I read the thread really fast so may have missed it but I ask the dump truck driver to spread the top soil. They can layout a few inches and spread it as they drive forward. Best if the ground is dry or frozen then drag with the loader. just a thought.
 
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racerboy

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So I got my backhoe off for the first time today and tried to put in my Kubota 3-point hitch and the attach the Speeco Quick Hitch. I cannot get the quick hitch centered. I’m clearly doing something wrong. I had to turn the bar on the right to get the hitch level with the left side, but now it pushes to the left.
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racerboy

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B2601
May 10, 2021
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Ok. I realized a couple of things. Fist the ball joints were painted in place and didn’t move freely. I also attached the small arm on bottom. Looks centered now. As far as moving the top of the hitch to be level, should I use the small pins on the two bottom rails or turn the top rod to level it out?
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racerboy

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May 10, 2021
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This shot show better how it’s not perpendicular to ground.
C851BCCB-6832-454D-ABBC-0188E53F6BFE.jpeg
 
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racerboy

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B2601
May 10, 2021
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I also got a Heavy Hitch. Now I need some suitcase weights and also a top pin. Neither the QH or the HH came with a top pin.
2F1B4ADD-B18D-47EB-8C04-C06143C0C4BC.jpeg
 
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Russell King

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In some of the pictures the vertical adjuster on the right side (looking towards front from the rear of tractor). looked like it was turned backwards. It looks correct in later posts. Just verify that you have it correctly installed now. It was the pictures from above that were obviously wrong to me.

this right side adjustment will tilt the implement so it is horizontal (parallel to the ground) or one side can be higher than the other.

the top link is also adjustable and will tilt the hitch to vertical (from the side of tractor) or tilt it forward and backwards from vertical.
 
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Russell King

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Deleted duplicate post
 
Last edited:

dirtydeed

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I’m not sure. How do I tell?
You just need to extend the top link to make the quick hitch perpendicular (vertically level, plumb)
 
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racerboy

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B2601
May 10, 2021
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In some of the pictures the vertical adjuster on the right side (looking towards front from the rear of tractor). looked like it was turned backwards. It looks correct in later posts. Just verify that you have it correctly installed now. It was the pictures from above that were obviously wrong to me.

this right side adjustment will tilt the implement so it is horizontal (parallel to the ground) or one side can be higher than the other.

the top link is also adjustable and will tilt the hitch to vertical (from the side of tractor) or tilt it forward and backwards from vertical.
You are correct. I had it twisted the wrong way. Thanks for the info on using the tilts.
I was on my phone earlier and wasn't sure what you had. This one has the F/R brackets.
View attachment 98942
I don’t think so. Mine doesn’t have that offset.
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
Use 'rustcheck' or similar on the all the ball joints and pins, Remove toplink, disassemble and apply neversieze, then screw it back in. Anything that's supposed to move or be adjusted, oil/lube it NOW before you go play. Sure, remove the excess but be sure they are lubed ! If water gets in, rust forms and can WELD things together really,really good. Yes, takes awhile but inevitable.....

I'd also remove those advertizing stickers unless you're being paid. They'll get scratched up PDQ anyway and more 'orange' looks better. heat gun gets them off easy.