I dont think I should use my dirt as it is called "blackjack". From what I hear, blackjack is a clay. I could be wrong, but I dont think grass likes clay (another things I have to study, growing grass, lol.). Seems it would be best to get rid of it and haul in some top soil!?
Best way to level land with a sub compact BX23s?
- Thread starter OrangePower
- Start date
Elliott in GA
Well-known member
Equipment
LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
After all of that work, you do not want to battle poor soil in your yard. Also, bringing in top soil will allow you to easily cover/fill any mistakes/unevenness in your grading.
When I leveled my sites, the gravel made it all smooth - looked like a pro did it.
torch
Well-known member
Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.
Somewhere on this site are photos of a large water pond dug with a small tractor and FEL. I forget who it was and how long it took, but he just kept going deeper and deeper, a few inches at a time.
Once you have your transit level, laser level, water level or whatever to judge grade, pound some stakes in a grid 20' or 30' apart and mark them as a visual aid. Rough grade around them, within a foot or so. then remove the resulting mounds later.
If the ground is too hard to dig with your FEL, then dig with your backhoe and move the spoil piles with the FEL. You can use the opportunity to practice smooth control of the multiple simultaneous lever movements necessary to keep the BH bucket at the correct angle while digging a level bottom.
You will learn how to most efficiently enter and scoop the spoil pile, perhaps shaking the first scoop into the back of the bucket and topping it off with a second scoop to maximize the load and minimize the number of trips. You will learn how to feather the bucket height when smoothing the fill by backblading to get things roughly level.
It won't happen overnight, perhaps not during your optimistic one year plan, but eventually you will become an accomplished operator with the satisfaction of knowing you did the work yourself and the fun of all that seat time in your tractor. That doesn't happen by watching other people doing the job.
Somewhere on this site are photos of a large water pond dug with a small tractor and FEL. I forget who it was and how long it took, but he just kept going deeper and deeper, a few inches at a time.
Once you have your transit level, laser level, water level or whatever to judge grade, pound some stakes in a grid 20' or 30' apart and mark them as a visual aid. Rough grade around them, within a foot or so. then remove the resulting mounds later.
If the ground is too hard to dig with your FEL, then dig with your backhoe and move the spoil piles with the FEL. You can use the opportunity to practice smooth control of the multiple simultaneous lever movements necessary to keep the BH bucket at the correct angle while digging a level bottom.
You will learn how to most efficiently enter and scoop the spoil pile, perhaps shaking the first scoop into the back of the bucket and topping it off with a second scoop to maximize the load and minimize the number of trips. You will learn how to feather the bucket height when smoothing the fill by backblading to get things roughly level.
It won't happen overnight, perhaps not during your optimistic one year plan, but eventually you will become an accomplished operator with the satisfaction of knowing you did the work yourself and the fun of all that seat time in your tractor. That doesn't happen by watching other people doing the job.
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My common sense tells me that if someone else can do it, so can I, except for major surgery which is hard to do once you put yourself to sleep
I change my own tires, do my own repairs, etc. As an example, tree guy wanted $4,600 to take down 3 large pines near my house. I had already dropped the 5 that were easily dropped away from the house. I ended up buying $600 worth of ropes, harness, climbing spikes, etc. and did it myself. Now I'm pretty good at canopy work (learned a new skill), have the equipment to do it, and saved $4,000. I'm sure it took me a lot longer than they would have taken, but that was OK with me.
I'm pretty sure he can do all the things he needs to with that subcompact, but it will take him a lot longer than if he hires it out. But from what I can tell, he's OK with that too. Some folks prefer to hire things out, some folks prefer to DIY. With youtube, everyone can be an expert these days
I agree with Freeheeler. The test I always use is to look at the people doing whatever and ask myself, "are they any smarter than me?". I had never done engine work until I rebuilt a Ford V4 that was in my Saab Sonett in 1971. I didn't blow anything up so that led me to a complete engine build for my Pantera in 72 - a performance 351C. I'm not a genius. If you are smart enough to ask questions you generally can get through just fine. With the internet today its that much easier.
It may take longer but as a poster in my 'new lawn' thread said, You will have so much satisfaction having done it yourself.
It may take longer but as a poster in my 'new lawn' thread said, You will have so much satisfaction having done it yourself.
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I think it is all about time and expectations. You could excavate a hole for a swimming pool with a teaspoon given enough time.
Several years ago I moved probably 300 plus (might have been closer to 400) cubic yards of earth from one spot on my property to others, maybe a hundred yards away on average. I dug it with the backhoe on my B2910, and hauled it with my 5x8 dump trailer pulled by my BX. It took me all summer. Literally. AND I am retired so it was every day the weather permitted. AND long days too.
So obviously, the OP can do what he wants given enough time. I think the time expectation is what needs addressed/adjusted after reading the original post.
I got a BX2200 about 1.5 years ago when I bought my new place. I have been very impressed with what I can accomplish with it. IT is very true that with bigger more specialized equipment you can accomplish the task faster, but if you are willing to put more time in I would be fairly confident your BX would do what you want. Just might be lower going. Maybe loosen up the soil some first before using the FEL. Box blade or tiller. Definitely would recommend a toothbar.
Just ask yourself what the time you spend doing it is worth to you. I enjoy it, so for me it is tractor play time. If getting it done quickly is the most important, then hire it out.
Just ask yourself what the time you spend doing it is worth to you. I enjoy it, so for me it is tractor play time. If getting it done quickly is the most important, then hire it out.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I am relatively certain that a complete house could be framed with toothpicks and glue.
Not sure how much "satisfaction" there would be in that though!
Where do it stop ??
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
This will be a little lengthy just so everyone knows where my thinking is, good and bad.
After seeing tractors scoop virgin earth, and knowing all the other projects I could use a tractor for, I went ahead and got myself a little 23s . I have to dig some holes for in ground water tanks, make a septic field, dig the hole for a septic tank, maybe a propane tank ( I like the idea of the explosion going UP, in case something happens, replace the culvert pipe at the road thats half collapsed, dig up/out a 12 foot tree stump(the dirt around it) make a road t the back of my 4 acre property, make a new driveway after the culvert pipe replacement re route a stream and as you reader/lurkers know, regrade my property.
Now, here is the tricky part. From all the rentals and days I would need from the rentals for my projects, it only made sense to buy a tractor and sell when done in 3 years or so (probably all done in the next 365 days). When I mentioned flattening out my property, a few people pitched in and said to just get someone to do it. Problem with that (me being foolish before hand, but thats hearsay now) is that if I spend $2k for someone else to do it, then it kind of negates me purchasing the tractor (I am thinking financially, not "handy"). So, now I have a $25k tractor I kind of "need" to make it work for me, if not, it was a waste of money
So, the time came for its arrival. It rained full blast the day I got it and I have been waiting for it for a year, so, needless to say, my yard is a mud pit just driving it around. I have a 2 lane gravel parking spot thats angled, so, I attacked that making even more of a mess, but what the heck, it was seat time and I was a happy duck! Heck, I even went to walmart a few days earlier and got a full wet suit just for the onslaught of rain, that aint gonna stop ME, lol. I learned a lot that day. Seems the tractor will do about 90% of what I expected it to do. Although it was slippery out there, I expected it to bite (traction) a little more and lift a little more. Also didnt steer through the mud the way I thought it would. Okay, so, it was a learning curve I adapted to, to extract as much as I could out of every maneuver. What I was left with though was that unless the ground is 85% dry for max traction/digging softness, no way I am gonna be able to skim the surface like I foolishly planned. There are things I could do to make it work, but, now is the time to work smart!
With that being said, the Box Blade was invented and advised. I looked into them, and, if I have any chance at leveling out the yard before x-mas 2023, I best be grabbing a box blade and giving that a whirl. Next question is how to go about it? Open yard is about 60ft x 140-60ish ft. Total area will be around 200/300x200/300ft when done, but, need to work on the open area first. Sometimes I dont get things, so, lets try this example. Lets take a baseball diamond and drop off 4th base so you have 3 bases, make it a rectangle, so, you have Home, 1st, 2nd and 3rd base, then back to home. Standing at home base, looking at 3rd base its "pretty" level. As you go to the far end of 1st, its about 2.5ft higher (approx 140ft out) than home, and 2nd base goes up to 3ft peak (60ft away) from 1st base.
How would I cut that all down properly to where its level AND it is ALL 8" (cinderblock height) lower than what home and 3rd started out as? Do I just chew on the corner of 2nd base area with the BB til it is even with 1st base area, then go back and forth between 1st and 2nd til it is somewhat even and then start taking out the whole area until home and third are/is cut down 8" (where it needs to be)? 2) Backhoe 2nd base area to 1st base level and box blade it from there, or? Did that even make sense as an example?
You are going to be in for some more surprises. Namely digging a large, deep hole for a water storage tank with that 6 ft "backhoe".
You probably guessed, but my recommendation is to save $$ on the box blade and rent the proper equipment to do the job.
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Mine is always if it becomes a bigger safety risk then I feel comfortable with. I don't see a safety risk with what the OP is doing.....so I say go for it if you enjoy doing it. I do, so I wouldn't hesitate unless I had too many other pressing projects.
I say go for it too. If it turns out not being fun "work" then you can reevaluate and make new decisions.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: Namely digging a large, deep hole for a water storage tank with that 6 ft "backhoe".
Actually easy to do, but it does get boring. First you dig a rectangular hole, say 2' longer, wider. Now from a narrow end, begin digging a 'ramp' into the hole. depending on soil type/conditon you can either use the bucket or the BH to dig material loose, thern use bucket to haul material away. Yes it's more work than just a hole ( 50%+- more), but it can be done....old skool way. Just look at any 'open pit' mine, same idea ,just a tad bigger hole !
Actually easy to do, but it does get boring. First you dig a rectangular hole, say 2' longer, wider. Now from a narrow end, begin digging a 'ramp' into the hole. depending on soil type/conditon you can either use the bucket or the BH to dig material loose, thern use bucket to haul material away. Yes it's more work than just a hole ( 50%+- more), but it can be done....old skool way. Just look at any 'open pit' mine, same idea ,just a tad bigger hole !
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
Thats not really digging a hole, that is digging a walkout basement lol.
It also removes all of the compaction around the ramp area which is always a yellow flag for me on a construction site.
The hole for my 500 gal propane tank was 12 ft long, 5 ft wide, 5 ft deep. That is some serious dirt to move with a 8" bucket. I did it with a 24" bucket, 14' backhoe and thought it took forever! Personally I would save my machine hours (every hour costs $$, no way around it) and get the right piece of equipment. I guess if you have more time that money it works.
As soon as I saw that line, I knew where it was going, good or bad, and just made me laugh so hard my coworkers were looking at me.....again.....like they usually do, lol.
Yea, that was the original plan about 7 months back, to grid it out and do a rough level through each grid. That plan is still standing as the best one so far. Reminds me, I have to go measure the actual yard size to start planning. But then, I have a new tractor to ride around on and dig things up, so.....decisions decisions!!
Gravel yard maybe? Yes??
Yup yup!! I rebuild auto transmissions for fun. Done a 85 700-r4/BMW 4l30 and a grand cherokee 42re . Not hard if you follow directions and are mechanically inclined. With you on the tree. Guy wanted to charge me $600 to drop a few limbs over the house. I thought, hmmm, well, if I do it and it crashes on the roof, I need a new roof yesterday, so, that day will be the day I put that $600 into my new roof, lol. In the end, I ended up just dropping the 2 trees (one of them is in the picture above) myself. One side of the roof was bruised by a small limb, but, no shingle tear. Was funny watching it crash on the roof, wondering what damage there was. Though it was a small limb, should have seen the eyes on my city slicker friend watching me, lol. Sadly(?) there was no damage, lol.My common sense tells me that if someone else can do it, so can I, except for major surgery which is hard to do once you put yourself to sleep
I change my own tires, do my own repairs, etc. As an example, tree guy wanted $4,600 to take down 3 large pines near my house. I had already dropped the 5.......
When you build the house with toothpicks and tell me how it went. Then I would say "stop"!, lol.
Once that section is level, the area behind the truck is 4 feet lower and will need to be filled at a later time. As of now, it has a stream running through it, so, I have to plan a new route for the stream and THEN bring it up to level with the rest of the yard. There is more to this, but, I dont want to type too much. I already killed most people with the original post, but, suffice to say, I would need the dozer out 2-3 times. Maybe I can plan it to all happen at once? Still, I think I would need the BB for the final finish, and, to scalp the back of the house after filling in the trench, along with making/laying/smoothing a new gravel driveway 600ft to the back of the property. I figure, if it is BB time, might as well give the whole thing a try!?
Well, as much as I kicked and screamed when I was a kid, I never got a dirt bike or go-kart and now I can have all the fun I want to make up for lost years. When/if it gets exhausting and looks endless i WILL call in the big guns. Til then, seems like a fun new adventure.
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Cant say I am looking "forward" to it, but, I live so far out in the country I have 1 bar on my cell phone, no highspeed internet (though I found a way to sneak it in over my phone that has unlimited access), no cable, no DSL, NADA, no wife/kids or g/f. Not much else to do out there.
I still say go for it. It will take longer with your tractor than a bigger one, but if you enjoy the work then it is great.
I have a .5 acre pond on my property. It is about 8-9ft deep. I was talking to my neighbor who has lived here forever and he was curious or the depth. He said the owner who put it in a long time ago did the whole thing on his own using a Ford 8n tractor. Said it took him a long time to do it, but he had fun. Just saying that you can do a lot with a smaller machine, just takes patience and persistence.
I have a .5 acre pond on my property. It is about 8-9ft deep. I was talking to my neighbor who has lived here forever and he was curious or the depth. He said the owner who put it in a long time ago did the whole thing on his own using a Ford 8n tractor. Said it took him a long time to do it, but he had fun. Just saying that you can do a lot with a smaller machine, just takes patience and persistence.
Jchonline
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota L6060, KX040-4, M7060, RTV X1100C, M62 (sold)
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
I can't add much more than has been said.
I've moved a lot of material with a BX equipped with loader and box blade. Box blade was my best purchase.
This doesn't show well, but several years ago was able to re-grade around the corner of the house. Moved quite a bit of material to get there. It was a lot steeper back there.
Did it pretty quickly too. Had to get the lawn in.
I've moved a lot of material with a BX equipped with loader and box blade. Box blade was my best purchase.
This doesn't show well, but several years ago was able to re-grade around the corner of the house. Moved quite a bit of material to get there. It was a lot steeper back there.
Did it pretty quickly too. Had to get the lawn in.
Well, we will see how long the honeymoon lasts.....
I see you have chains on the tires? You need them? They work? Doesn't it tear up the yard?