Trying to decide what would be the best solution for adding more stablity to my Kubota L4240. I have the tires filled with washer fluid, rears are set out 3 inches wider, and currently use a box blade (approx 450lb) on the 3pt when doing loader work. I am in east TN and my land has rolling hills and slopes but nothing extreme. I am considering adding some wheel weights and moving rear tires out to the widest position (5 inches), but was also thinking a heavier implement or ballast box on the 3pt might help also. My thought is that the wheel weights and widening the tires would help more on the slopes than more ballast on the 3pt, but wanted to see what experience others have had with adding wheel weights.
Best rear ballast solution for Grand L4240
- Thread starter 3boys865
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Good day.
is the machine new or new to you? (Congratulations). Have you had a problem with stability or what been using?
I have both filled tires and wheel weights on my MX, and I use ballast on 3pt as well when needed (depends on the task). My machine was basically helpless without the tire ballast/weights in terms of loader work. I am very happy with the combination of fluid and weights…I’d absolutely do both over. That being said I do not believe that one or both eliminate the need for rear ballast in many cases / taskes. I am not aware of the use case where ballast is not helpful on my machine in my properties(both are hilly)…for my hilly properties, if the concern is leaving ruts in the yard, its too wet then to be on the tractor….keeping the rubber side down is my priority….I have hilly property and not everyone has same priority. For rear ballast on the MX, I use either a rear cutter that weighs about 1k or a rear blade about the same, a BH92, and I have a ballast box (bigger version of the one in link below for my B)that I have not customized yet, but soon it will be my go to. I will modify in similar way as I have the box for my B which also has filled tires…here is a link to my upgraded box. I’d recommend check some of older threads, there are some great ideas that people have made much superior rear ballast (hat tip to the Oscar the Grouch design) I’d recommend how you plan to use and what other tasks you might be doing in conjunction with the loader work to add some tool holders or customizations for your likely uses. (Owners manual should have some recommendations on appropriate weight maybe…I am not familiar with your machine but I suspect it is similar in weight to an MX. I would think 1000-1200lbs would be a good range but maybe check your manual. (BH makes excellent rear ballast). I hope this helps.
Upgraded Ballast Box / saw and gear carrier
Good day. Recently I parted ways with a ballast box I had had since I got a BX(I traded to a B a several years back) The original box was not compatible with Pats Easy change that I recently put on the B. so I added this one (which will haul more weight 🥃). Today I finally got around to adding...
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Like @rc51stierhoff eluded, weight on the wheels and weight hanging behind the tractor help in slightly different ways.
Both should improve traction and may improve stability/keep the tractor “planted.”
However, a stout weight behind the rear axle on the 3 point hitch eases some of the weight on the front axle during heavy loader work.
Think of 1,000 or 1,500 pounds hanging 4-5 feet behind the rear axle on a 3 point hitch acting as a lever, where the rear axle is the fulcrum.
It “Lifts” the front end if you’re doing loader work…..eases weight on front axle.
It actually can be a disadvantage if you don’t have a loader on, as it can limit steering traction.
More weight on the wheels doesn’t do that.
Both should improve traction and may improve stability/keep the tractor “planted.”
However, a stout weight behind the rear axle on the 3 point hitch eases some of the weight on the front axle during heavy loader work.
Think of 1,000 or 1,500 pounds hanging 4-5 feet behind the rear axle on a 3 point hitch acting as a lever, where the rear axle is the fulcrum.
It “Lifts” the front end if you’re doing loader work…..eases weight on front axle.
It actually can be a disadvantage if you don’t have a loader on, as it can limit steering traction.
More weight on the wheels doesn’t do that.
I did the following.
Rear tires loaded and set to the widest spacing.
200lbs wheel weight on each rear rim.
These two items added to side hill stability and do a great job on light loader work.
For heavy loader/grapple work I add a large ballast box with roughly 1k of weight to the rear. Stability is improved and traction is also.
Rear tires loaded and set to the widest spacing.
200lbs wheel weight on each rear rim.
These two items added to side hill stability and do a great job on light loader work.
For heavy loader/grapple work I add a large ballast box with roughly 1k of weight to the rear. Stability is improved and traction is also.
A ballast will help. Anything around to fab something up? I had an old dirt scoop, some weights from a commercial weight machine, so I made one. I think it's about 1200 #, and it's not sticking out far.
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Thank you for the reply... that is exactly the setup I am considering, but the dealer is wanting about $1,400 to add the 2 sets of wheel weights (200lb per tire) which is more than I was expecting. I currently have tires filled and use my box blade for ballast (~450lbs), but am considering if it would be better investment to get a dedicated ballast box that I can add 800lbs or more to and get more weight further out from the rear axle. Not sure if the wheel weights would make enough impact to justify that much cost, but I have no experience operating with wheel weights so I can't say for sure. I do a lot of loader / grapple work. What type of ballast box do you use and what do you fill it with to maximize weight?
$1400 is ridiculous. I paid about $500 for four weights and two mounting kits. My stuff is not Kubota branded and I did the installation. Maybe check with other dealers if lower cost weights can be ordered.
That is for Kubota weights and installation, but I still thought that was high... I am in East TN so my property has a lot of hills and slopes, nothing real steep, but enough to cause some instability real quick. Did adding the wheel weights make a big difference in your side hill stability?
I don't believe the Kubota weights are 100# each, I'm thinking 75. Too bad you're so far away. I have 6 weights setting on a pallet I will probably never put on my tractor.
Spreading rear wheel as wide as possible made the biggest difference in stability. I would guess the wheel weights will help with stability, I have not tried to put them to the test. The weights do help with traction.
On your tractor it maybe cheaper to change rear tire fluid to Rim Guard. If I had done that on my tractor, It would have added 200 lbs. per tire vs. washer fluid fill. I was quoted $800 to switch over. Rim Guard
I live in TN as well and on top of a hill. Here is what I did:
Tire ballast. The nearest Rimguard dealer to me is about 4-5 hours away in Lexington KY; too far. Hence, I filled my rear tires with water and 5-6 gallons of RV antifreeze.
- Wheel weights. I wanted WW but the price of +$1/lb sucked big ones. hence I made concrete, lead and steel WW that weigh 250 lbs (+/-). See pics below.
3ph ballast weight. For typical loader work, I use my HD LMC box blade. It weighs 675 lbs on the hoof. I modified it however by adding an 8x8"x6' concrete, lead and steel weight block on the back end of it, plus I mounted my Ratchet Rake to the back of the BB.
Total weight: 675 + 410 weight block + 110 RR = 1,195 lbs +/-. When I lift the BB, my tractor rear end grunts quite a bit. It's a very effective 3ph ballast weight.
Ignore the railroad rails in the above pic, I deleted all but the center piece; they were a PITA to use.
I hope this helps.
Tire ballast. The nearest Rimguard dealer to me is about 4-5 hours away in Lexington KY; too far. Hence, I filled my rear tires with water and 5-6 gallons of RV antifreeze.
- Wheel weights. I wanted WW but the price of +$1/lb sucked big ones. hence I made concrete, lead and steel WW that weigh 250 lbs (+/-). See pics below.
3ph ballast weight. For typical loader work, I use my HD LMC box blade. It weighs 675 lbs on the hoof. I modified it however by adding an 8x8"x6' concrete, lead and steel weight block on the back end of it, plus I mounted my Ratchet Rake to the back of the BB.
Total weight: 675 + 410 weight block + 110 RR = 1,195 lbs +/-. When I lift the BB, my tractor rear end grunts quite a bit. It's a very effective 3ph ballast weight.
Ignore the railroad rails in the above pic, I deleted all but the center piece; they were a PITA to use.
I hope this helps.