Bent Top Link

[GeoHorn]

I recently used a straight grader-blade at an extreme angle in order to scratch a deep trench for some direct-burial cable (installing an RV outlet-box for visitors) and in order get the blade at the extreme angle cranked the right-side lift-arm crank-screw completely out of the tube, dropping the lift arm onto the ground.
It was hell getting that thing re-inserted and I wish there was an internal stop to prevent that (similar to the top-link in this thread. In-fact, my top-link is genuine Kubota and it can be unscrewed also.).
I had thought I might file a “cut” in the threads as a visible indicator so as to keep at least 3 threads engaged in the tube.... but I’d be happy to read any other’s ideas on this.

 

[retired farmer]

Happy Thanksgiving Geohorn, and everyone else that replied .

I thought about the access hole being used during assembly to insert the pin, but it would seem that as you screw the end out, the pin would be able to come out of the same hole it went in. I must admit that I like the challenge of solving a mechanical mystery, although I just wish that I didn't break stuff to provide the challenge!

I am going to use q-tips to clean out the grease and really try to find the pin and spring. If I figure this out, I will post an answer.

By the way, this guy asked me to invite him to dinner. Sure, you can be there! Turkeys are so dumb ................................!!

View attachment 51253 View attachment 51255

This guy came to my house for dinner!!!!!!!!

 

[19thSF]

Thanks Whitetiger. Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[GeoHorn]

View off my back porch:

 

[DrankTheOrangeKoolaid]

View off my back porch: View attachment 51273

I'm looking out the back window watching a young mule deer right now.

 

[RCW]

The last aftermarket top link I bought was from a Stihl/Ferris/Mahindra dealership a friend owns.

About $25 for an 11" (?) barrel link for my my BX.

Didn't bend mine; I just think the Kubota versions really stink. Scrapped mine in last load.

 

[BX23S-1]

Top links are cheap. I always keep an extra one sitting around in the shop just incase.
In the case of the OP, i wouldn`t waste my time bending it back straight. You`ll end up with stress cracks.

 

[Magicman]

The only reason for my bending suggestion was to be able to screw it back in to remove the "capture pin". Afterwards, discard and replace it. In my area the screw ends are readily available.

 

[GeoHorn]

The only reason for my bending suggestion was to be able to screw it back in to remove the "capture pin". Afterwards, discard and replace it. In my area the screw ends are readily available.

It was a “cold” bend when it was injured...and if you don’t heat it... if you place that nut as close to the bend as possible and use a hydraulic press against the nut to cold-bend it back straight... I would not worry too much about it. It’s mild steel and should handle that just fine. IMO

 

[Magicman]

I would slightly disagree. Cold bending causes the metal to become more brittle and the outside of the object is stretched and deformed more than the inside. Cold bending it back will cause it to become even more brittle. Heating metal and allowing it to cool slowly will produce a metal that is still hard but also less brittle. This process is known as tempering.

If I intended to keep and use that bent end, I would heat it before bending.

 

[19thSF]

Mystery solved........................it is not going to come apart easily. I removed the small screw (you can see it in the picture) to open the access hole and then cleaned the grease out. (There is a threaded hole on one side of the tube only). When I had cleaned out enough grease I could see a place in the thread that looked like it had been hit hard enough by something like a center punch to leave an indentation in the thread. This is probably done to limit the threaded rods outward movement. I guess that I can put the assembly into a vice and force the threaded end out, and then try to chase the treads but there doesn't seem to be a good reason to do it. One of the replies mention that the threads were marred on purpose at the factory. Good call on that one. So, here it is. Bent top link on a B series? It is time to buy a new one

 

[Magicman]

Wonder how long it will take to solve this mystery??

 

[RCW]

It is time to buy a new one

Honestly, I've found the aftermarket top links to be be much easier to deal with than the Kubota TL's, although I've had to grind off some of the width of the "ball" on the tractor side - - 5 minutes and done. I have 2 or 3, and haven't paid more than $30 for any of them.

Haven't broken or bent any....I simply bought one with a a barrel an inch or two too long..

Do as you choose, but I haven't been able to justify the premium price what was an inferior product in my book....

 

[GeoHorn]

Heating metal and allowing it to cool slowly will produce a metal that is still hard but also less brittle. This process is known as tempering..

No, that process is known as “Annealing”.... Heating and straightening it will stretch the threads and may leave it too soft to use as a top link. IMO.
I’d do as I previously suggested.

 

[Magicman]

Well I wasn't trying to be argumentative, just respectively disagreed, and the top link situation has been resolved anyway.

What's the difference between annealing and tempering? ... Annealing involves heating steel to a specified temperature and then cooling at a very slow and controlled rate, whereas tempering involves heating the metal to a precise temperature below the critical point, and is often done in air, vacuum or inert atmospheres.

Annealing (metallurgy) - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Annealing_(metallurgy)
In metallurgy and materials science, annealing is a heat treatment that alters the physical and ... In most cases this means the material is allowed to furnace cool (the furnace is turned off and the steel is let cool down inside) but in some cases it ...

Tempering (metallurgy) - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org › wiki › Tempering_(metallurgy)
Tempering is a heat treatment technique applied to ferrous alloys, such as steel or cast iron, to achieve greater toughness by decreasing the hardness of the alloy. The reduction in hardness is usually accompanied by an increase in ductility, thereby decreasing the brittleness of the metal.

 

[19thSF]

Wonder how long it will take to solve this mystery??
View attachment 51396

 

[19thSF]

Wonder how long it will take to solve this mystery??
View attachment 51396

Hello MagicMan. Thank you for your reply.

Looks creative engineering. Top link too long? Change the "too long effective length" by bending it into an "S" shape. ...........................................or not

 

[Magicman]

Actually it seemed too long and the ampitillerators were slightly out of alignment. Thankfully a quick twist with an ambidexter thermostropter solved the misalignment and now all is "a okay", but as GeoHorn pointed out above, it needed annealing before and while bending and afterward tempering to restore the hardness.

 

[GeoHorn]

Well I wasn't trying to be argumentative, ,,,,.