What would be the best way to fix this bend? It's not that bad, but it really bothers me. Heat it up and straighten it? Learned my lesson...just spend the money on bucket hooks.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Bent bucket lip
- Thread starter Dhunt4work
- Start date
CountryBumkin
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BX2370 w/LA243, Bucket, Grapple, QA Pallet Forks, 60" MMM, rear blade & rake
Sledge hammer from the top with something heavy/thick (the dolly) under the lip to absorb the hammer blows.
Like a car-body shop using a hammer and dolly.
Like a car-body shop using a hammer and dolly.
Its already been stretched, that metal wont want to back into its place. Ask me how i know. I had to slit/weld to to get it flat-er. Problem is weld cracks from bucket flexing.
Heres a thought, a clamp with the power of a vise, or even a vise would work. A good fitting block on either side of bend and using vise to press bent part back down.dont know if a c-clamp would to it. Would have to be hefty.
Heres a thought, a clamp with the power of a vise, or even a vise would work. A good fitting block on either side of bend and using vise to press bent part back down.dont know if a c-clamp would to it. Would have to be hefty.
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85Hokie
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As other have said - to get it back into shape will take a lot more planning than it did to bend it out!
Heat will destroy the paint and will ruin the temper of the steel if done incorrectly. Placing stopping points on either side of the bend is the best idea, keeping the correct form intact while you work to correct the bend by itself is the part that will take the most time. Like TJ said - the metal is stretched at the apex of the bend, and it will not come flat again. No matter what you do, it will never be as flat as it was from the factory, Like many of us who have placed a dent in the hood, bucket etc, the being "pissed off" factor grows into a "learning curve" and we all accept the fact that we have screwed up! And a little of the screw up will be left behind. BTDT ! (nice dime size dent in hood with 2 hours on the machine)
Find you a clamping tool that will be strong enough to place the pressure there, and then block either side so the pressure will concentrate only on the bend, moving the blocks in and out will allow the pressure to change.
If you go with the BF hammer, beat on something other than the bucket.!
Take pictures of what you end up with!
Heat will destroy the paint and will ruin the temper of the steel if done incorrectly. Placing stopping points on either side of the bend is the best idea, keeping the correct form intact while you work to correct the bend by itself is the part that will take the most time. Like TJ said - the metal is stretched at the apex of the bend, and it will not come flat again. No matter what you do, it will never be as flat as it was from the factory, Like many of us who have placed a dent in the hood, bucket etc, the being "pissed off" factor grows into a "learning curve" and we all accept the fact that we have screwed up! And a little of the screw up will be left behind. BTDT ! (nice dime size dent in hood with 2 hours on the machine)
Find you a clamping tool that will be strong enough to place the pressure there, and then block either side so the pressure will concentrate only on the bend, moving the blocks in and out will allow the pressure to change.
If you go with the BF hammer, beat on something other than the bucket.!
Take pictures of what you end up with!
coachgeo
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L225 w/woods Few Mowers & Back Blade, D722 in Motorcycle (Triumph Tiger), LMTV
Leave it there. IMHO it is character added AND LEARNED FROM. It's like learning and it's effect on the brain. It adds more folds in the Gray matter.
Not only will it remind you but anyone who is her future owner be it son, daughter, Grandchild or buyer..... they too will see it and learn.
Granted that is with the assumption that it does not weaken things or cause potential malfunctions in the future.
Not only will it remind you but anyone who is her future owner be it son, daughter, Grandchild or buyer..... they too will see it and learn.
Granted that is with the assumption that it does not weaken things or cause potential malfunctions in the future.
What kuboman said is going to be the easiest and cleanest method of taking that pucker out!
Just take a chop saw and cut a kerf from the outside edge to the point the metal is flat again. Pound it down flat and weld. Paint to suit!
Just take a chop saw and cut a kerf from the outside edge to the point the metal is flat again. Pound it down flat and weld. Paint to suit!
RCW
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Gosh - I can relate. Bringing my last ton of wood pellets home, got to a 50mph intersection. Traffic light goes yellow, and I stop. Unfortunately pallet didn't stop - pushed front of the pickup box into the cab. No damage to cab or back window, but the front rail of the box is bent up. Got it away from cab, but not pretty, and it really bugs me.
Might be my last truck with bedliner - wouldn't have happened if I didn't have one. Hauled almost 100 tons over the years - first issue.
Honestly - I would probably just latch onto it with a big pair if Vise Grips and pull it down. Use a cushion like a shop towel to avoid scratching paint.
The other guys had better ideas for a more appealing repair.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Ya beat me to it, NIW. Try it with the big adjustable wrench(s), if it can't be straightened that way, cutting a slit, and then straightening it, then welding is the way to go...I use a big crescent wrench and tighten it to the lip and then use a pipe to pull it down.
CaveCreekRay
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Or a big pipe wrench if you don't have a big enough Crescent.
(I just bought a like-new 36" Rigid pipe wrench for $25 just for this kind of project...)
(I just bought a like-new 36" Rigid pipe wrench for $25 just for this kind of project...)