Beef with Kubota - The nut that drove me nuts

[andmel]

I'm posting this in the hopes that it saves someone else some of the trouble I've experienced trying to remove the retaining nut from the front of my V1702 engine. I needed to remove the v-belt pulley and replace the front seal which was leaking crankcase oil. The nut is 46mm, and in my case, requires a deep socket to allow for the extended (~2.5") pto shaft in front of the nut. A 1&13/16" socket is equivalent. My first task was to find a store that carried such a beast. I found one - a 6-pt impact socket in 1&13/16" ($40+). Problem was, there's a flange on the pulley surrounding the nut and the socket wall was too thick to fit between. I couldn't get it over the nut w/out binding. My next try was a combination wrench in 1&13/16" ($30+) hoping that the offset slant of the box end would allow for overcoming the flange. This too was futile as the angle was not enough and the thickness of the box end was still too much to fit between the nut and flange. My only resolve was to purchase two standard depth, 12- pt (thinner wall than 6-pt) 46mm sockets ($13+/ea) from Northern Tool & Equipment (kudos to you guys), have a friend cut off the drive end of one socket w/ a lathe, and weld what was left to the other socket to create a special purpose, deep 46mm socket specifically for removal of my V1702 retaining nut. I believe I remember a post from back in 2009 on this forum that addressed a custom-made socket in lieu of a Kubota special tool for removal of this nut.

Does anyone know of another way to loosen this retaining nut? After replacing the seal, can I get enough resistance to torque it back on sufficiently w/out an impact wrench?

 

[Tomcat]

Maybe a PM to Service Dept Vic is in order, or maybe a couple of beers with one of the guys at the local dealership

 

[Daren Todd]

I'm posting this in the hopes that it saves someone else some of the trouble I've experienced trying to remove the retaining nut from the front of my V1702 engine. I needed to remove the v-belt pulley and replace the front seal which was leaking crankcase oil. The nut is 46mm, and in my case, requires a deep socket to allow for the extended (~2.5") pto shaft in front of the nut. A 1&13/16" socket is equivalent. My first task was to find a store that carried such a beast. I found one - a 6-pt impact socket in 1&13/16" ($40+). Problem was, there's a flange on the pulley surrounding the nut and the socket wall was too thick to fit between. I couldn't get it over the nut w/out binding. My next try was a combination wrench in 1&13/16" ($30+) hoping that the offset slant of the box end would allow for overcoming the flange. This too was futile as the angle was not enough and the thickness of the box end was still too much to fit between the nut and flange. My only resolve was to purchase two standard depth, 12- pt (thinner wall than 6-pt) 46mm sockets ($13+/ea) from Northern Tool & Equipment (kudos to you guys), have a friend cut off the drive end of one socket w/ a lathe, and weld what was left to the other socket to create a special purpose, deep 46mm socket specifically for removal of my V1702 retaining nut. I believe I remember a post from back in 2009 on this forum that addressed a custom-made socket in lieu of a Kubota special tool for removal of this nut.

Does anyone know of another way to loosen this retaining nut? After replacing the seal, can I get enough resistance to torque it back on sufficiently w/out an impact wrench?

I just locked the front pto shaft with a 3' pipe wrench, got on the nut with an 1 7/8 wrench to loosen and tighten the nut. No one here had an 1 13/16th wrench in stock and would have been two weeks for a special order. Didn't have any issues, and no burrs on the pto shaft.

 

[kuboman]

Grind the socket just enough to get it on.

 

[andmel]

Hadn't thought of that Kuboman...good idea.

 

[85Hokie]

I'm posting this in the hopes that it saves someone else some of the trouble I've experienced trying to remove the retaining nut from the front of my V1702 engine. I needed to remove the v-belt pulley and replace the front seal which was leaking crankcase oil. The nut is 46mm, and in my case, requires a deep socket to allow for the extended (~2.5") pto shaft in front of the nut. A 1&13/16" socket is equivalent. My first task was to find a store that carried such a beast. I found one - a 6-pt impact socket in 1&13/16" ($40+). Problem was, there's a flange on the pulley surrounding the nut and the socket wall was too thick to fit between. I couldn't get it over the nut w/out binding. My next try was a combination wrench in 1&13/16" ($30+) hoping that the offset slant of the box end would allow for overcoming the flange. This too was futile as the angle was not enough and the thickness of the box end was still too much to fit between the nut and flange. My only resolve was to purchase two standard depth, 12- pt (thinner wall than 6-pt) 46mm sockets ($13+/ea) from Northern Tool & Equipment (kudos to you guys), have a friend cut off the drive end of one socket w/ a lathe, and weld what was left to the other socket to create a special purpose, deep 46mm socket specifically for removal of my V1702 retaining nut. I believe I remember a post from back in 2009 on this forum that addressed a custom-made socket in lieu of a Kubota special tool for removal of this nut.

Does anyone know of another way to loosen this retaining nut? After replacing the seal, can I get enough resistance to torque it back on sufficiently w/out an impact wrench?

I have been in a situation that was much like that .....I had to grind the outside of the socket to make it fit the hole to get to the nut/bolt.
Then I had to "tap-a-torque to get it tight....wasnt real thrilled at the process, but it did work. A quick rap with a hammer on the end of the ratchet was the only way I could do it shy of a impact hammer.

 

[ShaunRH]

Yeah, I would've had the friend with the lathe turn down the thicker socket just enough to let it fit...

 

[85Hokie]

I'm posting this in the hopes that it saves someone else some of the trouble I've experienced trying to remove the retaining nut from the front of my V1702 engine. I needed to remove the v-belt pulley and replace the front seal which was leaking crankcase oil. The nut is 46mm, and in my case, requires a deep socket to allow for the extended (~2.5") pto shaft in front of the nut. A 1&13/16" socket is equivalent. My first task was to find a store that carried such a beast. I found one - a 6-pt impact socket in 1&13/16" ($40+). Problem was, there's a flange on the pulley surrounding the nut and the socket wall was too thick to fit between. I couldn't get it over the nut w/out binding. My next try was a combination wrench in 1&13/16" ($30+) hoping that the offset slant of the box end would allow for overcoming the flange. This too was futile as the angle was not enough and the thickness of the box end was still too much to fit between the nut and flange. My only resolve was to purchase two standard depth, 12- pt (thinner wall than 6-pt) 46mm sockets ($13+/ea) from Northern Tool & Equipment (kudos to you guys), have a friend cut off the drive end of one socket w/ a lathe, and weld what was left to the other socket to create a special purpose, deep 46mm socket specifically for removal of my V1702 retaining nut. I believe I remember a post from back in 2009 on this forum that addressed a custom-made socket in lieu of a Kubota special tool for removal of this nut.

Does anyone know of another way to loosen this retaining nut? After replacing the seal, can I get enough resistance to torque it back on sufficiently w/out an impact wrench?

I need a socket like that too, found them at Tractor Supply, like 10 bucks....they had every size you could think of !

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/jobsmartreg;-3-4-in-drive-1-13-16-in-socket-103895299--1

 

[andmel]

I'm reluctant to grind down a $40 inpact socket that I could return for refund and instead purchase two, 12-pt, thinner-walled, CHEAPER ($13/ea) 46mm sockets and have then cut and welded for free. I guess another option would be to cut the standard depth 46mm socket in half, then weld each half to either end of a 3" piece of pipe stock. This would provide a 'deep' socket and alleviate having to buy a 2nd one.

 

[Tomcat]

Sometimes the best tools are those you make yourself.

 

[andmel]

Thx Hokie,

Only problem is, the socket at TS is still standard depth, not deep; hence my dilemma.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I ran into the exact same thing on my D1902, I used a chisel to take it off and put it back on, Just use the point on the face of the nut, doesn't hurt the nut.
It's holding a pulley, not anything with any great torque, and it's keyed, so it doesn't need to be super tight.

 

[Lil Foot]

Here is an 1 1/2" deep socket I turned down for EZGO wheel bearing nuts when I was building lifted golf carts.

 

[85Hokie]

Thx Hokie,

Only problem is, the socket at TS is still standard depth, not deep; hence my dilemma.

gotcha - I knew it was too simple of a thought !!!!!

 

[andmel]

Wolfman,
Thanks for that suggestion. May have to go that route. Update....one of my friends made a 1-13/16" deep socket today at work by pressing a 1-13/16" nut into a piece of pipe stock. If it's not on too awefully tight, maybe this will do the trick if the pipe doesn't collapse under the pressure.
Stay tuned.............................

 

[BotaDriver]

Had to grind down a socket for the spark plug on the RTV400. I believe it was 13/16. Nothing else would fit so to the angle grinder it went. Worked great.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Yes, cutting a socket and welding a a pipe between the cut ends would be my option. Pull starter and block flywheel to torque nut. 100 lbs on a 1 foot bar equals 100 foot pounds. I do the math from there.

 

[Diydave]

On My L 185, It had a locking tab that had to be bent down, before nut could be removed. Then I just put a big honking pair of channel locks on the crank shaft splines, and a adjustable wrench on the pulley nut, came off no problems...

 

[andmel]

Mine doesn't have the locking washer. The flange on the pulley is keeping me from putting pliers or a wrench on it, so I'm confined to using a socket, or possibly a chisel/punch and hammer as Wolfman suggested. Putting the tractor in gear and locking the brake didn't seem to be enough so I'll use Tooljunkie's recommendation to block the flywheel.

 

[Billdog350]

Why don't we start a loan a tool link for members?

People post up their custom made tools available for loan. USPS has cheap flat rate shipping for these heavy tools (usually $5-10).

The borrower would pay for a deposit on the tool via paypal or check, and then get it refunded when they return it, minus a rental fee if the loaner had required.

Simple, cheap and easy.

I know I'd pay the $5 for shipping plus a rental cost for the above socket you guys mention to avoid making one myself. Plus it would save me money in the long run...