Battery Tender

[johnjk]

I Love OTT. Came here looking to ask about trickle chargers and again find a well full of goodness. I especially like the weatherproof plug that I can put up on the dash so I see the cable before driving off. I have a trickle charger on my 4-wheeler and the cable connector is up by my left knee. I leave extra cable looped on the grip so I have that visual reminder to remove it before I ride.

Too bad I didn't do this on Wednesday when I could have had all the pieces ready to go for this weekend.....

 

[CaveCreekRay]

I discovered NOCO chargers on this forum. Have a bunch now. This plug fits in a small hole and shows current battery status. Mounted on the dash in a ute, its obvious so missing it is less likely...

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC016-Dashmount-Battery-Indicator/dp/B009MI9L6U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520605256&sr=8-6&keywords=NOCO+battery+charger+port

 

[Charlie5320]

This is what I use, I have a couple of them. They do cost a bit more but they do a very good job. I bought one for use on my Corvette in 2012 and it stays on all the time, when i'm not driving. Bought the second one a couple years ago and rotate it among my other vehicles. Going to attach the permenate cable on the Kubota when it warms up a bit. I have used it on my old Simplicity during the winter for the last couple years.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CTEK-Batte...933892&hash=item2394a641fc:g:cqIAAOSwB3BaKEAe

 

[Dave_eng]

Bruce, the operator's manuals for both the B2650 and the L3560 firmly state for slow charging to attach the plus of the tender to the positive pole of the battery, then attach the negative to the negative on the battery and not the frame. I can't tell if they say it that way for simplicity sake, or if it matters. The 2650 is the sib to the 3350 only without the dpf fllter and so the circuitry may be more complicated than expected.

I grew up with the plus to plus minus to engine block rule for jumping cars, and I can't see any reason why searching elsewhere for a good wire attachment point wouldn't be fine, but it might be harder to find on one of these newer tractors. ????

My experience with the type of voltage regulator/rectifier used on tractors (and motorcycles) with dynamo's is under some circumstances the regulator rectifier is seeing the high voltage of the charger and is trying to lower it. With these rectifiers/regulators all they can do is try and convert the higher voltage into heat. I burned out a couple on my motorcycle before I woke up.

I have not taken a Kubota wiring diagram, and also the internal electronic circuitry of the rectifier/regulator and studied them to see under what circumstances it sees the high voltage but heed warning like the one mentioned. Using the chassis as the ground to avoid running a long ground wire may be a problem in the same way with AC wiring there are times when a circuit should have an isolated ground.

Safest would be to put on a battery isolator switch, some have remotes, and isolate the battery while charging.

Dave

 

[sheepfarmer]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate the explanations you give. It would really matter which model tractor is under discussion. I probably only marginally escaped accidentally frying the computer in the 3560 when I was having a wrestling match with the wires on the posts trying to fit the tender connectors in place and not short anything.

 

[D2Cat]

The battery tenders I use come with a 20" (or so) pigtail with eyes on one end and the adapter plug for the cord on the tender. I put the eye on the appropriate battery post bolt that is the clamp, and just get another metric nut of the correct size and put in on. Bring the extension out to the edge somewhere, then it's easy to attach and disconnect. No chance of problems once it's on.

 

[sheepfarmer]

The battery tenders I use come with a 20" (or so) pigtail with eyes on one end and the adapter plug for the cord on the tender. I put the eye on the appropriate battery post bolt that is the clamp, and just get another metric nut of the correct size and put in on. Bring the extension out to the edge somewhere, then it's easy to attach and disconnect. No chance of problems once it's on.

Yes it is the once it's on part that was giving me fits. The eye ring had to be filed down on one side to get it to fit on the bolt neatly. The loader was in the way and it was about 20 out so I'd made it harder for myself than necessary.

 

[Dave_eng]

Thanks Dave, I appreciate the explanations you give. It would really matter which model tractor is under discussion. I probably only marginally escaped accidentally frying the computer in the 3560 when I was having a wrestling match with the wires on the posts trying to fit the tender connectors in place and not short anything.

Sheepfarmer

Thank you for the compliment.

On some new and newer tractors, features are being incorporated into the wiring harness to make them more idiot proof.

On one particular brand, best described here by its color, green and yellow, the use of two "safety," relays is common. First you would think the safety term would have to do with a pto switch, clutch switch etc. Wrong. These relays are present to protect the tractor against booster cables or battery chargers being connected backwards.

The simple act of mis-connecting a battery tender can cause serious damage if you have a newer tractor as most do not have these safety relays. You see a little spark, say to yourself "Shxt," and reverse the leads. The little spark can be all that is needed on a tractor with electronic systems.

These issues rarely come up on forums because the owners of these tractors are not often having to come to forums seeking help.

However, one day in the future, these new tractors will become old and then, if owners have not kept pace with the technologies, they will not understand nor be able to fix their own machines.

I have written before about flyback diodes being incorporated into wiring harnesses to protect electronics against the dangerous voltage spikes produced by relays. My experience, until this week, was to see these diodes in single diode plug in forum.

Now I have seen a diode block. A cluster of diodes incorporated into one black box the size of a relay. It plugs into the relay and fuse panel and looks like a relay.

Hope some of you find this interesting.

Dave

 

[Foggy1111]

The JD 3320 I just traded for my new L3560HSTC has the original battery from 2006. I've always kept a Battery Tender Jr on it over winters.....and the battery performs as good now as when new. 12 years out of a battery is pretty good....and these CUT batteries have been known to have issues.

I have 12 Battery Tender Jr's.....and put them on all our marine and lawn and cars that sit over winter. Ended our batter issues with everything! Best money spent. Some of those deep cycle marine batteries are not cheap!

I just use the jumper clips for most things.....but do use the supplied BTJ'r 's quick disconnect for the tractor and route the connector to an easy access point. Don't overthink it. .