Looks like the BX22 uses a dry battery, that cost $185. Can I replace this battery with a standard liquid lawn tractor battery, or will that not work with the alternator recharging system? Thanks.
Battery Replacement
- Thread starter CWayneU
- Start date
By "dry" battery do you mean a conventional battery that is sealed where there are no cap(s) to add water?
I don't think you want a 'lawn tractor' battery as those labeled as such in my area have ears or lugs, not standard vehicle battery terminals. And are generally of marginal quality.
You're looking for a vehicle-type battery, sealed or not depending on your preference and location.
Get the largest physical size battery with greatest Cold Cranking Amps you can safely fit into your machine. Check and clean (wire brush, sandpaper) all your connections especially the ground cable attached to the chassis. Remove the ground cable from the chassis in order to clean the connection.
While you have the old battery out go ahead and wash everything with a hose to remover old acid residue. Don't bend the radiator fins with a forceful flow.
On a new install and after making everything tight and confirming works, slather the terminals with a thick paste (like peanut butter) of baking soda and water.
Use a battery tender or maintainer year round or especially in the winter.
Be certain you install the new battery such that the machine cables attach to the correct terminals for correct battery and system polarity.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
I don't think you want a 'lawn tractor' battery as those labeled as such in my area have ears or lugs, not standard vehicle battery terminals. And are generally of marginal quality.
You're looking for a vehicle-type battery, sealed or not depending on your preference and location.
Get the largest physical size battery with greatest Cold Cranking Amps you can safely fit into your machine. Check and clean (wire brush, sandpaper) all your connections especially the ground cable attached to the chassis. Remove the ground cable from the chassis in order to clean the connection.
While you have the old battery out go ahead and wash everything with a hose to remover old acid residue. Don't bend the radiator fins with a forceful flow.
On a new install and after making everything tight and confirming works, slather the terminals with a thick paste (like peanut butter) of baking soda and water.
Use a battery tender or maintainer year round or especially in the winter.
Be certain you install the new battery such that the machine cables attach to the correct terminals for correct battery and system polarity.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
"On a new install and after making everything tight and confirming works, slather the terminals with a thick paste (like peanut butter) of baking soda and water."
Now this is a guaranteed method of getting mice to eat your wiring!
Now this is a guaranteed method of getting mice to eat your wiring!
You can buy battery terminal cleaner and protector spray at any NAPA or WalMart. It's fairly cheap and it should be used on batteries annually.
I normally like household item use like Baking Soda but in this case, that's an emergency neutralizer method, get the spray stuff. It lasts longer and is less messy.
I normally like household item use like Baking Soda but in this case, that's an emergency neutralizer method, get the spray stuff. It lasts longer and is less messy.
I maintain 4 separate batteries. I have always smeared battery terminals with dielectric grease. Cheap by the tube. In fact I use it on all electrical connections.
Dielectric grease is great for lubricating up electrically connected items but it is an insulator so be aware it can cause connectivity issues in electric connections...
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/dielectric?s=t
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/dielectric?s=t
Just for clarity and in response to D2Cat's observation: geez, don't smear your battery terminals with peanut butter. Or if you do at least add jelly.
Just glob on baking soda paste mixed thick. A lot less messy than any grease: wash it off once a year and reapply as needed.
I've gotten away from the spray-can goo because I found it would crawl down in any gap between the terminal and the cable clamp and over time gradually create an insulative barrier----and headaches.
Agree about dielectric grease: it's designed to be a NONconductor. Great for bulb bases, not so much for battery terminals.
Just glob on baking soda paste mixed thick. A lot less messy than any grease: wash it off once a year and reapply as needed.
I've gotten away from the spray-can goo because I found it would crawl down in any gap between the terminal and the cable clamp and over time gradually create an insulative barrier----and headaches.
Agree about dielectric grease: it's designed to be a NONconductor. Great for bulb bases, not so much for battery terminals.
Have to say it - old guys still learning. I have used dielectric grease for years and never knew that. I started using it when I had Russian motorcycles and those things start corroding before they leave the factory.
I don't think he was suggesting you use peanut butter, he was suggesting using a mix of baking soda the consistency of peanut butter... 
I've never had an issue with the sprays, just a light coating prevents fouling for 4-5 years. You don't need to go bonkers with it. You do need to use both sprays though, just the protectant only lasts about 1-2 years. Clean then protect.
You can use dielectric grease, just in moderation. If you use too much, you get the problem Stubbyie is talking about, eventual degradation of the current flow capability of the connection. I use it all the time on spark plugs, it's the only way I can get the wires to release from the plug caps! But it's a light coating. As long as whatever metal makes contact 'bites' through to the opposite metal, you are fine. If it's just a surface to surface mating, it can cause current flow issues.
There are conductive greases out there but they can have their own issues, if you get the spread too far out from the contacts, they will conduct along surfaces that are supposed to prevent it and you end up with power going where it is not supposed to.
FYI, you can use a clear laquer, shellac or enamel AFTER you have all the connections in and tight. This will prevent the battery gases from forming the corrosive oxidization on the terminals as well, but you need to clean it off if you take apart the connections and intend to reconnect them.
I've never had an issue with the sprays, just a light coating prevents fouling for 4-5 years. You don't need to go bonkers with it. You do need to use both sprays though, just the protectant only lasts about 1-2 years. Clean then protect.
You can use dielectric grease, just in moderation. If you use too much, you get the problem Stubbyie is talking about, eventual degradation of the current flow capability of the connection. I use it all the time on spark plugs, it's the only way I can get the wires to release from the plug caps! But it's a light coating. As long as whatever metal makes contact 'bites' through to the opposite metal, you are fine. If it's just a surface to surface mating, it can cause current flow issues.
There are conductive greases out there but they can have their own issues, if you get the spread too far out from the contacts, they will conduct along surfaces that are supposed to prevent it and you end up with power going where it is not supposed to.
FYI, you can use a clear laquer, shellac or enamel AFTER you have all the connections in and tight. This will prevent the battery gases from forming the corrosive oxidization on the terminals as well, but you need to clean it off if you take apart the connections and intend to reconnect them.
OK, back to OP's question.
I use a "liquid" battery from Costco or Sam's Club. Just measure the W x L x H and take note of where the + and - terminals are located on the top of the battery. Then go and find a match. Just about all the batteries have plenty of juice (CCA) to start a BX.
The warranty is also great from those places. Walmart is an additional option. Another bonus is the cost is far less than an OEM battery. Such replacements are in all of my tractors.
Oh, and I use the red battery terminal spray that can be purchased at any discount auto store.
I use a "liquid" battery from Costco or Sam's Club. Just measure the W x L x H and take note of where the + and - terminals are located on the top of the battery. Then go and find a match. Just about all the batteries have plenty of juice (CCA) to start a BX.
The warranty is also great from those places. Walmart is an additional option. Another bonus is the cost is far less than an OEM battery. Such replacements are in all of my tractors.
Oh, and I use the red battery terminal spray that can be purchased at any discount auto store.
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
The warranty is key depending on where you live the average battery life is 4 years on a battery. One i bout for mine was a sealed battery with a 5yr warranty, for 30$ more then the one with a 3yr warranty. Average battery life here is only 3 to 4 years. I'll make sure the battery needs replacing before the 5th year
depending on where you live the average battery life is 4 years on a battery. One i bout for mine was a sealed battery with a 5yr warranty, for 30$ more then the one with a 3yr warranty. Average battery life here is only 3 to 4 years. I'll make sure the battery needs replacing before the 5th yearI'm using gel batterys now, no more 'wet' batterys for me. Oldest one I have is
over 11 years old and still working fine... Just bought one for the ATV.
over 11 years old and still working fine... Just bought one for the ATV.
I have used the red spray with success in the past but for my Kubota I just use the red and green felt circles. 99 cents and no mess.